South to Cañete

The first 60 km south from Lima are dotted with a series of seaside resort towns and clubs that come alive in the summer months of December to March. Note that most beaches have very strong currents and can be dangerous if swimming. If you're unsure, ask the locals. The first popular beach is

, at Km 34, which is good for a day trip from Lima. The beach is lined with

, all offering fresh seafood, but go early to get an umbrella and lounge chair (you will be expected to buy food or drinks if using these facilities). Just before El Silencio is a spectacular rock formation a short distance out to sea consisting of two islands known as

(the whale). The next notable beach is

at Km 39, which is a popular summer retreat for Limeños. There are many summer houses here and some nice hostels for those looking to soak up some sun or to surf. Fresh seafood restaurants line the boardwalk of Punta Hermosa. The next beach from Punta Hermosa is

, Km 47, a popular spot for surfers, well-known for having the most consistent surfing break south of Lima.

is 49 km south from Lima. It is very busy from New Year's Eve to March, but at other times is quiet and relaxing. There are plenty of cheap places to eat. A further 2 km is

.

Next comes the charming fishing village of

, 57 km south of Lima (combis from Surco). There are excellent views from the cliffs above the village. It is a working harbour with summer houses for Limeños. You can hire a boat for an hour's trip with Julián Durán, T01-998 074829, or Cóndor, for US$14, to see Humboldt penguins, sea cat otters, Inca terns, gulls, pelicans, cormorants and shags, boobies, surf birds and Peruvian seaside cinclodes. Don't sail in the direction of the smelly factory, but to the rocks where you can see seabirds close at hand.

The small beach resort of

, 14 km south of Pucusana, is 30 minutes by

from the market place. There isn't much to see, but a long, deserted beach does present camping possibilities. You can walk along the beach from Chilca to Salinas (5 km), which has mineral baths. There are a few restaurants and pensiones. In summer (December-February), these places fill up with holidaymakers from Lima. Chilca is famous for its figs; roadside stalls sell delicious fig ice cream.

beach is reached by a dirt road from Km 120 of the Panamericana. It has fine sand and rocky outcrops that divide it into three sections. The northernmost is the safest and most visited. It's very popular with Peruvian campers in summer.

About 150 km south of Lima, on the Río Cañete, the prosperous market centre of

(commonly called

) is set amid desert scenery. All the main services are within a couple of blocks of the plaza. The town hosts a festival in the last week of August, a good opportunity to hear black coastal music and see dance troupes such as Perú Negro. A few kilometres before Cañete, there is a turning to

, an uncrowded beach village, with hotels and restaurants on the shore and good surfing.