Pisco and around

Chincha Alta

This area was all heavily damaged in the 2007 earthquake and the devastation is still apparent although some limited rehousing has taken place, helped by donations from the Venezuelan president, Hugo Chávez. Some 35 km north of Pisco, near Chincha Baja, is
Tambo de Mora
, the old port, with nearby archaeological sites at Huaca de Tambo de Mora, La Centinela, Chinchaycama and Huaca Alvarado.
Chincha
itself still has a thriving negro/criollo culture . It is a good place to sample locally produced wine and
pisco
. One of the best bodegas is the
Naldo Navarro
founded in 1897 and being totally reconstructed in 2008, http://vinosnaldonavarro.com
. Now run by the fourth generation of the Navarro family, the old cellars are being converted into a museum. Other bodegas also have guided tours and the third Saturday in September is national
pisco
day.

Pisco

Despite being christened as San Clemente de Macera by the Spanish in 1640, the town had already been unofficially named after the famous local brandy and would always be known as Pisco. Now the largest port between Callao and Matarani, 237 km south of Lima, it serves a large agricultural hinterland.

The town was originally divided into two:
Pisco Pueblo
, with its colonial-style homes, patios and gardens; and
Pisco Puerto
, which, apart from fisheries, has been replaced as a port by the deep-water Puerto General San Martín, beyond Paracas. The two have now expanded into one fairly unattractive town. Avenida San Martín runs from the Plaza de Armas to the sea. The government has spent some US$400 million on rebuilding roads, sewers and power systems after the earthquake, but a year later and the police station was still not rebuilt, corruption and crime were rampant, new housing was limited to one-room shacks made of particle board and many families were still living in tents.

It is not recommended to walk on or near
Pisco Playa
at night, as there are many reports of tourists being robbed while walking to the beach; take a taxi or mototaxi. It is best not to carry important items such as plane tickets, passports or anything flash, while out at night.

Inland from Pisco

From the Pan-American Highway near Pisco, a paved road runs 317 km up to Ayacucho in the sierra, with a branch to Huancavelica. At Castrovirreyna the road reaches 4600 m. The scenery on this journey is superb.

One of the best-preserved Inca ruins in coastal Peru is
Tambo Colorado
.
It includes buildings where the Inca and his retinue would have stayed. Many of the walls retain their original colours. On the other side of the road is the public plaza and the garrison and messengers' quarters. The caretaker will act as a guide and has a small collection of items found on the site. Wait at his house for transport back to Pisco.

At
Huaytará
, four hours by bus from Pisco, the whole side of the church is a perfectly preserved Inca wall with niches and trapezoidal doorways. Twenty minutes from town are the ruins of Incahuasi with thermal baths. On 24 June is the
Fiesta of San Juan Bautista
.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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