Urubamba and around
Urubamba
Chinchero
Salinas
, and visit it when you get there; it has been beautifully renovated. Take water as it can be very hot and dry here.
Moray
Like many places along the valley, Urubamba has a fine setting, with views of the Chicón snow-capped peaks and glaciers, and enjoys a mild climate. The main plaza, with a fountain capped by a maize cob, is surrounded by buildings painted blue. Calle Berriózabal, on the west edge of town, is lined with pisonay trees. The large market square is one block west of the main plaza. The main road skirts the town and the bridge for the road to Chinchero is just to the east of town.
Seminario-Behar Ceramic Studio
, www.ceramicaseminario.com, is located in the beautiful grounds of the former
Hostal Urpihuasi
. Pablo Seminario has investigated the techniques and designs of pre-Columbian Peruvian cultures and has created a style with strong links to the past. Each piece is handmade and painted, using ancient glazes and minerals, and is then fired in reproduction pre-Columbian kilns. The resulting pieces are very attractive. Reservations to visit the studio and a personal appointment with the artists (Pablo and Marilú) are welcomed.
Chinchero is northwest from Cuzco, just off a direct road to Urubamba. The streets of the village wind up from the lower sections to the
plaza
, which is reached through an archway. The great square appears to be stepped, with a magnificent Inca wall separating the two levels. Let into the wall is a row of trapezoidal niches, each much taller than a man. From the paved lower section, another arch leads to an upper terrace, upon which the Spaniards built a
church
. The ceiling, beams and walls are covered in beautiful floral and religious designs. The altar, too, is fine. The church is open on Sunday for mass and at festivals. Opposite the church is a small local museum. Excavations have revealed many Inca walls and terraces.
Chinchero attracts few tourists, except on Sunday. The local produce
market
on Sunday morning is fascinating and very colourful, and best before the tour groups arrive. It's on your left as you come into town. There's also a small handicraft market on Sunday, up by the church. The town celebrates the
Day of the Virgin
, on 8 September.
Five kilometres west of Urubamba is the village of
Tarabamba
(Km 77 on the Sacred Valley road), where a bridge crosses the Río Urubamba. If you turn right after the bridge you'll come to
Pichingoto
, a tumbled-down village built under an overhanging cliff. Just over the bridge and before the town to the left of a small, walled cemetery is a salt stream. Follow the footpath beside the stream and you'll come to
Salinas
, a small village below which are a mass of terraced pre-Inca salineras (salt pans), which are still in production after thousands of years. There are 3200 pools and 480 cooperative members. They only work the pans from May to October, during the dry season. These are now a fixture on the tourist circuit and can become congested with buses.
It's a 45-minute walk from Urubamba to the salt pans. The climb up from the bridge, on the right side of the valley, is fairly steep but easy, with great views of Nevado Chicón. The path passes by the cascade of rectangular salt pans, taking up to 1½ hours to the top. From the summit of the cliff above the salt pans, walk to
Maras
, about 45 minutes. Focus on the white,
colonial church
This remote but beautiful site lies 9 km by road to the west of the little town of Maras. There are three 'colosseums', used by the Incas, according to some theories, as a sort of open-air crop nursery, known locally as the laboratory of the Incas. The great depressions do not contain ruined buildings, but are lined with fine terracing. Each level is said to have its own microclimate. It is a very atmospheric place, which, some claim, has mystical power. The scenery around here is absolutely stunning, especially in the late afternoon when the light is wonderful. For photography, though, it's best to arrive in the morning. The road eventually arrives at the guardian's hut, but there is little indication of the scale of the colosseums until you reach the rim.
The most interesting ways to get to Moray are on foot from Urubamba via the
salineras
, or a day-long cycle trip, starting in Chinchero and ending at the foot of the
salineras
(a challenging descent; go with a specialist agency or guide).
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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