Pisac
Only 30 km north of Cuzco is the little village of Pisac, which is well worth a visit for its superb Inca ruins, perched precariously on the mountain, above the town. They are considered to be among the finest Inca ruins in the valley. Strangely, however, most visitors don't come to Pisac for the ruins. Instead, they come in droves for its Sunday morning market and growing number of shopping outlets. Pisac is usually visited as part of a tour from Cuzco but this often allows only 1½ hours here, not enough time to take in the ruins and splendid scenery.
Pisac village and marketThe market contains sections for the tourist and for the local community. Traditionally, Sunday is the day when the people of the highlands come down to sell their produce (potatoes, corn, beans, vegetables, weavings and pottery). These are traded for essentials such as salt, sugar, rice, noodles, fruit, medicines, plastic goods and tools. The market comes to life after the arrival of tourist buses around 1000, and is usually over by 1500. However, there is also an important ceremony every Sunday, in which the
Varayocs
(village mayors) from the surrounding and highland villages participate in a Quechua Catholic mass in
Pisac
church
. It is a good example of the merging of, and respect for, different religious cultures. This aspect of the traditional Pisac Sunday market is still celebrated at 1100 sharp. Pisac has other, somewhat less crowded, less expensive markets on Tuesday and Thursday morning; in each case, it's best to get there before 0900.
On the plaza, which has several large
pisonay
trees, are the church and a small interesting
Museo Folklórico
. The town, with its narrow streets, is worth strolling around, and while you're doing so, look for the fine façade at Grau 485. There are many souvenir shops on Bolognesi.
The ruins of Inca Pisac stand on a spur between the Río Urubamba to the south and the smaller Chongo to the east. It provides an ideal vantage point over the flat plain of the Urubamba, the terraces below and the terraced hillsides. This is one of the largest Inca ruins in the vicinity of Cuzco and it clearly had defensive, religious and agricultural functions, as well as being an Inca country estate.
To appreciate the site fully, allow five or six hours on foot. Even if going by car, do not rush as there is a lot to see and a lot of walking to do. Walking up, although tiring, is recommended for the views and location. It's at least one hour uphill all the way, but the descent takes 30 minutes. Horses are available. Road transport approaches from the Kanchiracay end. Overnight parking is allowed in the car park.
The walk up to the ruins begins from the plaza, passing the Centro de Salud and a control post. The path goes through working terraces, giving the ruins a context. The first group of buildings is Pisaqa, with a fine curving wall. Climb up to the central part of the ruins, the Inithuatana
group of temples and rock outcrops in the most magnificent Inca masonry. Here are the Reloj Solar
(Hitching Post of the Sun) - now closed because thieves stole a piece from it - palaces of the moon and stars, solstice markers, baths and water channels. From Intihuatana, a path leads around the hillside through a tunnel to Q'Allaqasa
(military area). Across the valley at this point, a large area of Inca tombs in holes in the hillside can be seen. The end of the site is Kanchiracay
, where the agricultural workers were housed. At dusk you will hear, if not see, the
pisaca
(partridges), after which the place is named, and you may see deer too.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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