Cuzco city listings

Sleeping

You should book more expensive hotels well in advance through the internet or a good travel agency, particularly for the week or so around
Inti Raymi
(page), when prices are much higher. Hotel prices, especially in the mid to upper categories, are often lower when booked through tour agencies. When there are fewer tourists hotels may drop their prices by as much as half. Be wary of unlicensed hotel agents for mid-priced hotels, who are often misleading about details; their local nickname is
jalagringos
(gringo pullers), or
piratas
(pirates). Taxis and tourist minibuses meet arriving trains and take you to the hotel of your choice for US$0.75-1, but be insistent. Many hotels and hostales can arrange tours: don't be pressured into buying, but compare services with outside agencies for best value.

It is cold at night in Cuzco and many hotels do not have heating. It is worth asking for an
estufa
, a heater, which some places will provide for an extra charge. When staying in the big, popular hotels, allow plenty of time to check out if you have a plane or train to catch: front desks can be very busy. Assume that hotels have free luggage storage and 24-hr hot water in pre-heated tanks, unless otherwise stated. The city can suffer from water shortages. Cuzco's low-power electric showers often do a poor job of heating the very cold water and their safety is sometimes questionable.

Plaza de Armas and around

$$$
Picoaga
, Santa Teresa 344 (2 blocks from the Plaza de Armas), T084-252330, www.picoagahotel.com. Price includes buffet breakfast. Originally the home of the Marqués de Picoaga, this beautiful colonial building has large original bedrooms set around a shady courtyard and a modern section, with a/c, at the back. Cable TV, minibar and safe. Pleasant staff. Recommended.

$$$
Ruinas
, Ruinas 472, T084-260644, www.hotelruinas.com. A comfortable hotel conveniently located close to the plaza, good facilities (TV, minibar, etc) and comfortable beds, a little expensive, with a 0900 check-out, but helpful staff, price includes buffet breakfast.

$$$
Sonesta Posadas del Inca
, Portal Espinar 108, T084-227061, www.sonesta.com. Price includes buffet breakfast. Warmly decorated rooms with heating, safe and cable TV. Some rooms on 3rd floor have view of the plaza. Very helpful staff who speak English, restaurant serves Andean food, excellent service, business centre available.

$$$-$$
Del Prado Inn
, Suecia 310, T084-224442, www.delpradoinn.com. A very smart hotel just off the plaza. 24-hr room service available, and closed-circuit TV in the public areas for additional security. Suites with jacuzzi cost US$120-145.

$$
Casa Andina Plaza
, Portal Espinar 142, T084-231733, www.casa-andina.com. 1½ blocks from the plaza, this hotel has 40 rooms with cable TV, bath, safe deposit box, heating, duvets on the beds, Wi-Fi, ATM, restaurant and all the features common to this bright, cheerful chain. Equally recommendable are the
Casa Andina Koricancha
, San Agustín 371, T084-252633, the
Casa Andina Catedral
, Santa Catalina Angosta 149, T084-233661, and the
$$$
Casa Andina San Blas
,
Chihuampata 278, San Blas, T084-263694, all of which are in the same vein (but the last 3 do not have an ATM).

$$
Royal Inka I
, Plaza Regocijo 299, T084-231067, royalin@speedy.com.pe. Price includes taxes and buffet breakfast. Bedrooms, with cable TV and heating, are set in a colonial house around a shady central patio. Tranquil atmosphere, bar, restaurant with set menu. Recommended.

$$
Royal Inka II
, close by, on Santa Teresa, same phone and email. More modern and expensive but the price includes buffet breakfast, saunas and jacuzzi (massage US$25). The colonial façade hides a modern building, the rooms of which open out onto a huge atrium dominated by an incongruous, 3-storey-high mural. All rooms have cable TV and heating. Free bus for guests to Pisac at 1000 daily, returning at 1800.

$$
Hotel Marqueses
, Garcilaso 256, T084-264249, marqueses@sastravelperu.com. Restored in Spanish-colonial style, with suitable artwork and 2 lovely courtyards. Prices include buffet breakfast. Some rooms have bath, others are a little dark. Discounts on
SAS
Travel
.

$$
Emperador Plaza
, Santa Catalina Ancha 377, T084-227412, emperador@terra.com.pe. Price includes buffet breakfast. A modern, light, airy hotel with friendly and helpful English-speaking staff. Cable TV, hairdryer, gas-heated showers and electric radiators.

$$
Hostal Corihuasi
, C Suecia 561, T084-232233, www.corihuasi.com. Price (Visa or Amex accepted) includes continental breakfast and airport pickup. A tough climb up from the northernmost corner of the Plaza de Armas, tranquil, popular with tour groups. Friendly, some rooms with good views, cable TV, solar heating. Recommended.

$$
Hostal Qosqo
, Portal Mantas 115, near the Plaza de Armas, T084-252513, www.hostalqosco.com. Bargain hard for a discount. Price includes continental breakfast, a heater and cable TV. The state of decor and quality of mattress varies from room to room but most stay here for its proximity to the plaza. Clean, friendly and helpful.

$$
Pensión Loreto
, Pasaje Loreto 115, Plaza de Armas, T084-226352, www.loreto hostal.com. Price includes continental breakfast and a heater for the spacious rooms with original Inca walls. Great location; they will serve you breakfast in bed. Laundry service, will help organize travel services including guides and taxis, free airport pickup.

$
Hostal Q'Awarina
, at the top of Suecia 575, T084-228130, www.qawarinahostal.com. Price includes continental breakfast, heating US$2, TV extra. No laundry service. Rooms are good, ask for those with a view. Lovely living room with views across the city; the breakfast area upstairs is even better. Good value.

$
Hostal Turístico Plateros
, Plateros 348, T084-236878, plateroshostal@hotmail.com. Price includes continental breakfast. Clean, good-value
hostal
in a great location, pleasant communal area with cable TV. The best rooms overlook the street.

$
Hostal Resbalosa
, Resbalosa 494, T084-224839. Breakfast is US$1.45 extra; laundry service. Superb views of the Plaza de Armas from a sunny terrace. Owner Georgina is very hospitable. Best rooms have a view (US$1.45 extra), others may be pokey. The electric showers are reportedly cool, but most guests love this place; it's often full.

$
El Procurador del Cusco
, Coricalle 440, Prolongación Procuradores, at the end of Procuradores, T084-243559.
$
without bathroom, price includes use of the basic kitchen (no fridge) and laundry area. Basic rooms and the beds somewhat hard, but upstairs is better. Staff are very friendly and helpful, good value. Recommended.

$
Hostal Royal Frankenstein
, San Juan de Dios 260, 2 blocks from the Plaza de Armas, T084-236999, ludwig_roth@hotmail.com. This unforgettable place, with its ghoulish theme, has good services: fully equipped kitchen (small charge to use), cable TV in the living room, safe, laundry facilities, excellent mattresses but few rooms have outside windows. German owner. Recommended.

$
Munay Wasi
, Huaynapata 253, not far from the Plaza de Armas, T084-223661. Price includes hot drinks and laundry facilities. Quiet, but run-down colonial house, with basic, clean rooms, friendly and helpful.

$
The Point
, Mesón de la Estrella 172, T084-252266, www.thepointhostels.com. Price is per person in dormitory, also has doubles (
$
), includes breakfast, free internet, good beds, hot showers, clean, good party atmosphere. Has a travel centre which can arrange trips.

$
Tumi 1
, Siete Cuartones 245, 2 blocks from Plaza de Armas, T084-244413. Price includes use of the kitchen and laundry area; free book exchange, laundry service extra. Colonial house, clean rooms around a sunny courtyard, all with shared bath. Facilities are basic and you have to pay for more than one shower a day, friendly, popular, good value; bargain for longer stays.

North and northeast of the Plaza de Armas

$$$
Hotel Monasterio
, Palacio 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas, T084-604000, www.monasterio hotel.com. This 5-star, beautifully restored Seminary of San Antonio Abad is central and quite simply the best hotel in town for historical interest ; it is worth a visit even if you can't afford the price tag. Soft Gregorian chants follow you as you wander through the baroque chapel, tranquil courtyards and charming cloisters, admiring the excellent collection of religious paintings. Rooms have all facilities, including cable TV, some even offer an oxygen-enriched atmosphere to help clients acclimatize, for an additional fee of US$40. Staff, who all speak English, are very helpful and attentive. The price includes a great buffet breakfast (available to non-residents) that will fill you up for the rest of the day. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner à la carte. Recommended.

$$$
La Casona Inkaterra
, Plazoleta Las Nazarenas 113, T084-245314, www.inkaterra.com. A new (2007), private, colonial-style boutique hotel in a converted 16th-century mansion, built on the site of Manco Cápac's palace. 11 exclusive suites, all facilities, concierge service with activities and excursions (prices US$500-1000).

$$$
Novotel
, San Agustín 239, T084-881030, www.novotel.cusco.com.pe. 4-star, cheaper in modern section; price includes buffet breakfast. Converted from the home of
conquistador
Miguel Sánchez Ponce, it was remodelled after the 1650 earthquake with lovely stone archways and paintings of the saints on the grand stairway. Beautiful courtyard, roofed in glass, with sofas, coffee tables and pot plants around the central stone fountain. The modern 5-storey rear extension has excellent airy and bright rooms. Rooms in the colonial section are not much different but have high, beamed ceilings and huge beds. There are 2 restaurants and a French chef.

$$
El Arqueólogo
, Pumacurco 408, T084-232522, www.hotelarqueologo.com. Price includes buffet breakfast. Services include oxygen, a library and hot drinks. A colonial building on Inca foundations, this has rustic but stylish decor. Lovely sunny garden with comfy chairs and a small restaurant that serves interesting Peruvian food and fondue. French and English spoken. Recommended. Also has a bed and breakfast
hostal
at Carmen Alto 294, T084-232760,
$$-$
, and
Vida Tours
, Ladrillo 425, T084-227750, www.vidatours. com. Traditional and adventure tourism.

$$
Cusco Plaza 1
, Plaza Nazarenas 181 (opposite
El Monasterio
), T084-246161, www.cuscoplazahotels.com. Price includes continental breakfast. Situated on a lovely small plaza in the town centre, clean rooms all with cable TV. Room 303 has the best view.

$$
Hotel Rumi Punku
, Choquechaca 339, T084-221102, www.rumipunku.com. A genuine Inca doorway leads to the sunny, tranquil courtyard of this 3-star hotel. 20 large, clean, comfortable rooms, helpful staff and safe. Highly recommended.

$$
Piccola Locanda
, Resbalosa 520, T084-252551, www.piccolalocanda.com. This colourful Peruvian/Italian run B&B is a steep walk up from the Plaza de Armas. Rooftop terrace has 360-degree views. It boasts the excellent restaurant
L'Osteria
, a TV/DVD room, pleasant courtyard. Rooms in individual style, some without bath. Associated with
Perú Etico
tour company and two children's projects. Recommended.

$
Casa Elena
, Choquechaca 162, T084- 241202, www.geocities.com/casa_elena. French/Peruvian hostel, very comfortable and friendly, breakfast included. Highly recommended.

$
Hostal María Esther
, Pumacurco 516, T084-224382. Price includes continental breakfast; heating extra. This very friendly, helpful place has a lovely garden, a lounge with sofas and a variety of rooms. There is also car parking. Recommended.

$
El Balcón Colonial
, Choquechaca 350, T084-238129, balconcolonial@hotmail.com. Continental breakfast and hot showers extra, use of the kitchen and laundry extra. Accommodation for 11 people in this family house. Basic rooms with foam mattresses but hospitality is exceptional. Free airport pickup.

San Blas

$$$-$$
Casa San Blas
, Tocuyeros 566, just off Cuesta San Blas, T/F084-237900, www.casa sanblas.com. An international standard 'boutique' hotel with bright, airy rooms decorated with traditional textiles. Breakfast, served in the
Tika Bistro
downstairs, and Wi-Fi are included. Pleasant balcony with good views, very attentive service.

$$
Hotel y Mirador Los Apus
, Atocsaycuchi 515, corner with Choquechaca, T084-264243, www.losapushotel.com. Price includes buffet breakfast and airport pickup; laundry US$1 per kg. Swiss-owned, very clean and smart with beamed bedrooms fitted with cable TV and real radiators! Disabled facilities.

$$
Casona Les Pleiades
, Tandapata 116, T084-506430, www.casona-pleiades.com. Small guesthouse in renovated colonial house, cosy and warm, generous hosts, gas-heated water, buffet breakfast included, cable TV, Wi-Fi, roof terrace, video lounge and book exchange, café, free airport pickup with reservation, lots of information for guests.

$$
Hostal Casa de Campo
, Tandapata 296-B (at the end of the street), T084-244404, info@hotelcasadecampo.com. Price (10% discount for Footprint readers) includes continental breakfast and free airport/rail/ bus transfer with reservations. Bedrooms have fabulous views but it's quite a climb to get to them! Safe deposit box, laundry, meals on request and a sun terrace. Dutch and English spoken; take a taxi there after dark.

$$
Hostal Tikawasi
, Tandapata 491, T084-231609, tikawasi@hotmail.com. Price includes breakfast and all rooms are heated. A family-run hostal with a lovely garden overlooking the city. Very stylish, softly lit rooms, great views. Comfortable beds and spotless bathrooms make this a good choice.

$$
Hostal Amaru
, Cuesta San Blas 541, T084-225933, www.cusco.net/amaru. (
$
without bathroom). Price includes breakfast and airport/train/bus pickup. Services include oxygen, kitchen for use in the evenings only, laundry and free book exchange. Rooms around a pretty colonial courtyard, good beds, pleasant, relaxing, some Inca walls. Rooms in the first courtyard are best. Recommended. Also has
Hostal Amaru II
at Chihuampata 642, San Blas, www.amaruhostal.com, and
Hostería de Anita
, with bath, safe, quiet, good breakfast.

$$
Marani
, Carmen Alto 194, T084-249462, www.hostalmarani.com. Breakfasts available. Book exchange and information on Andean life and culture. Large rooms with heaps of character, set around a courtyard. The Hope Foundation (www.stichtinghope.org) is run from here: Walter Meekes and his wife, Tineke, have built 20 schools in poor mountain villages and barrios, established a programme to teach teachers and set up a 30-bed burns unit in Cuzco general hospital. Good value, a great cause and highly recommended.

$$
Pensión Alemana
, Tandapata 260, T084-226861. Price includes American breakfast; laundry and heating extra. Car parking available. Swiss-owned, modern European decor with a comfy lounge area, free internet, lovely garden with patio furniture. Recommended.

$
Hostal Kuntur Wasi
, Tandapata 352-A, T084-227570.
$
without bath, services include a safe, use of the kitchen and laundry (both extra). Great views from the terrace where you can breakfast. Very welcoming, helpful owners; a very pleasant place to stay.

$
Posada del Sol
, Atocsaycuchi 296, T084-246394. Includes American breakfast, heater and airport pickup. Cheerfully decorated, sun terrace with great views, fantastic showers. Use of kitchen, good-value laundry service; food is available. Cannot be reached by taxi. Recommended.

$
Hostal Osiris
, Atocsaycuchi 616, T084-234572, www.hostalosiris.com. Belgian/Peruvian owned. All rooms have shared bath and hot water, use of kitchen, dining room, laundry, internet. Trekking equipment can be rented and yoga lessons are available. It's basic but warm, relaxed, clean and friendly.

$
Hostal Pakcha Real
, Tandapata 300, T084-237484, pakcharealhostal@hotmail. com. Price includes airport/train/bus pickup; rooms with bath; breakfast, heaters and use of kitchen extra. Family-run with the comforts of home. Laundry service, spotless rooms, friendly and relaxed, but confirm booking if arriving late.

$
Andes de San Blas
, Carmen Alto 227, T084-242346, www.andesdesanblas@ hotmail.com. Very friendly, family run hostel in an excellent location mid-way along Carmen Alto, between the
Splendid
laundry and
Juanitos Sandwich Café
. Great views of Cuzco, Sacsayhuaman and Cristo Blanco from the small rooftop terrace and some rooms. Basic breakfast, living room with sofas and TV, internet access downstairs. The family can arrange budget tours; see general note above. Rooms are clean and pleasant with basic decoration and comfy beds. The only minor downside would be the slightly smelly drains in the bathrooms. Generally good.

$
Hospedaje Jhuno
, Carmen Alto 281, T084-233579. A small family-run
hospedaje
, clean rooms, family lounge. Breakfast is not included but guests can use the tiny kitchen.

$
Hostal Familiar Mirador del Inka
, Tandapata 160, off Plaza San Blas, T084-261384, miradordelinka@latin mail.com. This
hostal
was redeveloped in a very stylish way, with its Inca foundations and white colonial walls. Bedrooms with bath are spacious and some have great views. Price includes breakfast. The owner's son Edwin runs trekking trips and has an agency on site.

$
Hostal Sambleño
, Carmen Alto 114, T084-262979. A lovely jumble of staircases overlooks a central courtyard. Rooms of varying quality, breakfast available, laundry service. Beds are comfy, showers are electric.

$
Hostal Familiar Carmen Alto
, Carmen Alto 197, first on the right down steps (no sign), T084-224367, carmencitadelperu@hot mail.com. If there's no answer when ringing the bell, go to the shop next door, it's run by
the same family. Basic rooms with great charac-
ter (in one case, constructed around a huge tree). Tranquil, family-run, use of kitchen and washing machine. Carmen will make you a very good breakfast for US$2. All rooms with
shared bath, electric showers. Recommended.

$
The Blue House
, Kiskapata 291 (there are 2 Kiskapatas - this one runs parallel to and above Tandapata), T084-242407. Price per person. Snug little
hostal
, excellent value, with reductions for longer stays. Breakfast is included, DVD room, shared kitchen and great views with a small park in front.

$
Hospedaje El Artesano de San Blas
, Suytucato 790, T084-263968, manosand inas@yahoo.com. Many clean, bright and airy rooms. As with the
Hospedaje Inka
, you need to walk up from San Blas.

$
Hospedaje Familiar Inti Quilla
, Atocsaycuchi 281, T084-252659. Breakfast not included and no facilities for making food. Colourful rooms around a little courtyard, quiet (on pedestrian street so taxis cannot drop you at the door). Good value.

$
Hospedaje Inka
, Suytuccato 848, T084-231995. Taxis leave you at Plaza San Blas, walk steeply uphill for 5-10 mins, or phone the
hostal
. Price includes bath and breakfast. Wonderful views, spacious rooms, very helpful owner, Américo.

East and southeast of the Plaza de Armas

$$$
Libertador Palacio del Inka
,
in the Casa de los Cuatro Bustos, at Plazoleta Santo Domingo 259, T084-231961, www.libertador. com.pe. Splendid 5-star, award-winning hotel built on Inca ruins (the walls can be seen in the restaurant and bar), set around courtyards. 254 well-appointed rooms; the attention to detail is so great there are even Nazca Lines drawn in the sand of the ashtrays! Enjoy Andean music and dance over dinner in the excellent
Inti Raymi
restaurant. Recommended.

$$$
Casa Andina Private Collection Cusco
, Plazoleta de Limacpampa Chico 473, T084-232610, www.casa-andina.com. In a 16th-century mansion with 3 courtyards, this hotel is one of the recommended
Casa Andina
chain's upmarket establishments, with even higher standards of services and comfort than those listed above. It has all the main facilities, plus a gourmet restaurant serving local cuisine and a bar with an extensive
pisco
collection.

$
Maison de la Jeunesse
(affiliated to Hostelling International), Av Sol, Cuadra 5, Pasaje Grace, Edificio San Jorge (down a small side street opposite Qoricancha), T084-235617, hostellingcusco@hotmail.com or maisondelajeunesse@hotmail.com. Price includes breakfast. Very friendly hostel with a selection of dormitories and private rooms. TV and video room, cooking facilities and very hot water.

$
Albergue Casa Campesina
, Av Tullumayo 274, T084-233466, ccamp@apu.cbc.org.pe. Price includes breakfast, shared bathrooms only. A lovely place, set up to support the work of the
Casa Campesina
organization (www.cbc.org.pe/casacamp/), which is linked to local
campesina
communities. On the same site is the
Store of the Weavers
. The money that people pay for accommodation goes to this good cause. 23% discount for
SAE
members.

$
Estrellita
, Av Tullumayo 445, parte Alta, T084-234134. Price includes breakfast and tea and coffee all day. TV, video and old stereo in the tiny communal sitting area, basic kitchen for guests. Rooms are multiples with shared bath, plus 2 with private bath. Basic but excellent value. It is about a 15-min walk from the centre. When you arrive ring the bell several times and wait; you will be given your own keys when you register. Safe parking for cars and bikes. Recommended.

West and northwest of the Plaza de Armas

$$
Cusco Plaza 2
, Saphi 486, T084-263000, www.cuscoplazahotels.com. Under same management as the
Cusco Plaza 1
. The 24 nicely decorated rooms are set around 3 charming covered patios. Price includes American breakfast, and all rooms have cable TV and heating.

$$
Hostal El Balcón
, Tambo de Montero 222, T084-236738, www.balconcusco.com. Price includes breakfast. Lovingly restored 1630 colonial house with rooms set around a beautiful garden, homely atmosphere. Ask for a TV if you want one. Restaurant and kitchen for guests, laundry service. Recommended.

$$
Hostal Andenes de Saphi
, Saphi 848, T084-227561, www.andenesdesaphi.com. Price includes continental breakfast and all rooms have heaters. Very friendly little hostel with a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Each room is decorated in a different style; the 4-bed family room is very nice. Lovely entertain- ment/games room, and a small but pleasant garden.

$$
Hostal Cahuide
, Saphi 845, T084-222771, F248262, www.hotelcahuide-cusco.com. Price (negotiate for a discount, especially for longer stays) includes
American breakfast. Cable TV in all rooms, ask for a heater. A modern hotel with 1970s furniture, plain white walls and comfy beds. Helpful staff.

$$
Hostal San Isidro Labrador
, Saphi 440, T084-226241, labrador@qnet.com.pe. Continental breakfast included in the price. Very pleasant 3-star hotel with elegant but simple decor, colonial arches and lovely patios. Plenty of hot water and heating. Recommended.

$$
Niños Hotel
, Meloc 442, T084-231424, www.ninoshotel.com. Price does not include the excellent breakfast, which costs US$1.70-2.50. Services include the cafeteria and laundry service (US$1.15 per kg), Dutch, English, German and French spoken. Spotless, beautiful rooms in a 17th-century colonial house funding a fantastic charity established by Dutch couple, Titus and Jolande Bovenberg. Also has
Niños 2
, on C Fierro, a little further from the centre, 20 nicely decorated, clean and airy rooms, surrounding the central courtyard. Also
$$$-$$
Niños Hacienda
in the village of Huasao, with bungalows, rooms, pool, horse riding. Contact the main hotel for reservations.

$
Hostel Loki
, Cuesta Santa Ana 601, T084-243705, info@lokihostel.com. (From
$
). Huge, ultra-funky new hostel in a restored viceroy's residence on the super-steep Cuesta Santa Ana. Dorms and rooms are set around a beautiful courtyard, and the view alone makes the climb well worth the effort. The beds have comfortable duvets, there's plenty of hot water, free internet access and lots of chill-out areas. A great place to meet other travellers.

$
Hostal Familiar
, Saphi 661, T084-239353. Popular
hostal
in a colonial house 3 blocks from the central plaza. Most beds are comfy, hot water all day. Luggage deposit costs US$2.85 a day for a big pack.

$
Hostal Killipata
, Killichapata 238, just off Tambo de Montero, T084-236668, www.geocities.com/killipata. Very clean, family-run lodging with good showers, hot water and fully equipped kitchen - it even has a pizza oven. Recommended.
$
in shared rooms.

$
Hostal Qorichaska
, Nueva Alta 458, T084- 228974, www.qorichaskaperu.com. Price includes breakfast, use of well-equipped kitchen, internet and safe. Laundry service. Rooms are clean and sunny; ask for the older rooms - they're bigger and have traditional balconies. Friendly and recommended.

$
Hostal Rickch'airy
, Tambo de Montero 219, T084-236606.
$
without bath. Backpackers' haunt with views from the garden. Owner Leo has tourist information and will collect guests from the station.

$
Suecia II
, Tecseccocha 465 (no bell - knock!), T084-239757 (it is wise to book ahead).
$
without bath, breakfast US$1.40. Rooms are set around a glass-covered colonial courtyard and are warm. Beds have thick foam mattresses, but no seats on the toilets, water not always hot or bathrooms clean, can be noisy and the luggage store is closed at night, otherwise OK.

$
Albergue Municipal
, Kiskapata 240, near San Cristóbal, T084-252506, albergue@ municusco.gob.pe. Private rooms with double beds and dormitories in this very clean, helpful youth hostel. Nice communal area with cable TV and video. No rooms have bath. Great views, cafeteria and laundry facilities (laundry service US$0.75 per kg). Showers are electric, but there is no kitchen.

$
Hostal Luzerna
, Av Baja 205, near San Pedro train station (take a taxi at night), T084-232762. Price includes breakfast. A nice family-run
hostal
, hot water, good beds, clean, safe to leave luggage. Recommended.

Away from the centre

$$
Residencial Torre Dorada
, C los Cipreses N-5, Residencial Huancaro, T084-241698, www.torredorada.com.pe. In a tranquil suburb to the west of the airport, this sparklingly clean modern hotel makes up in service for anything it might lose in location. Good size rooms with very comfortable beds, heating and plenty of hot water in the well-appointed en suite bathrooms. Buffet breakfast is included, as is free transportation to and from the airport/bus/train station, and daily to the historical centre of Cuzco. Internet access is also available. An excellent option for people looking to stay in a quieter part of town. Highly recommended.

EatingPlaza de Armas and around

Procuradores and Plateros are 2 streets that lead off the northwest side of the Plaza de Armas. Procuradores, or
Gringo Alley
as the locals call it, is good for a value feed; its menus take the hungry backpacker from Mexico to Italy, Spain and Turkey. None is dreadful, many are very good indeed, especially for the price. Parallel with Gringo Alley, Plateros also has good-value places to eat. It is also lined with a great many tour operators, so you can wander up and down checking what deals are on offer.

$$$
Cicciolina
, Triunfo 393, 2nd floor, T084-239510, cicciolinacuzco@yahoo.com. Sophisticated restaurant focusing largely on Italian/Mediterranean cuisine. Antipasti, salads and bruschettas are all excellent. Main dishes range from handmade pasta, through excellent steaks to Moroccan lamb tagine. It also has a tapas bar and a boutique bakery; the kitchens are open to view. The impressive wine list draws from across the globe but the emphasis is on Latin American produce. Good atmosphere, fine decor and great for a treat. Ask about their
Open Air Restaurant in Cuzco
scheme: a gourmet picnic will be taken to the location of your choice, with chef, waiters and all the trimmings (best for groups).

$$$
El Truco
, Plaza Regocijo 261. Excellent local and international dishes, used a lot by tour groups, buffet lunch 1200-1500, nightly folk music at 2045, next door is
Taberna del Truco
, which is open 0900-0100.

$$$
Incanto
, Santa Catalina Angosta 135, T084-254753, incanto@cuscorestaurants. com. Under same ownership as
Inka Grill
and with the same standards, this new restaurant has Inca stone work and serves pastas, grilled meats, pizzas, desserts, accompanied by an extensive wine list. Open daily 1100-2400. There is also a Peruvian delicatessen on the premises. Upstairs is the new venture of
Greens Organic
(formerly in San Blas), exclusively organic ingredients in fusion cuisine and a fresh daily buffet.

$$$
Inka Grill
, Portal de Panes 115, T084-262992, www.inkagrillcusco.com. 1100- 2400 daily. According to many the best food in town is served here, specializing in
novo andino
cuisine (the use of native ingredients and 'rescued' recipes) and innovative dishes, also home-made pastas, wide vegetarian selection, live music, excellent coffee and home-made pastries 'to go'. A good place to spoil yourself, recommended.

$$$
La Retama
, Portal de Panes 123, 2nd floor, T084-226372. Excellent
novo andino
food and service. We recommend the mouth- watering trout sashimi as a starter, followed by steak. There's a balcony, an enthusiastic music and dance group and art exhibitions.

$$$
Maikhana
, Av El Sol 106, T084-252044, www.maikhana.net. Authentic Indian restaurant in a mini-mall, serving filling curry, Indian breads, unlimited rice and lassies. Also has a coffee house and sports bar, free internet and phone.

$$$
Pachacútec Grill and Bar
, Portal de Panes 105. International cuisine including seafood and Italian specialities, also features folk music shows nightly.

$$$
Tunupa
, Portal Confiturías 233, 2nd floor (same entrance as
Cross Keys
). 1 of the finest restaurants on the plaza (often used by tour groups). Also has the longest (glassed-in) balcony but this is narrow and best for couples only. Food is international, traditional and
novo andino
; wine list is limited. Also an excellent buffet that includes a
pisco sour
and a hot drink. In the evenings there is an excellent group playing 16th- and 17th- century-style Cuzqueñan music of their own composition, with dancers. Recommended.

$$$
Tupananchis
, Portal Mantas 180, T084-976 4494, tupananchis_rest_cusco@ hotmail.com. Tasty, beautifully presented
novo andino
and fusion cuisine in a smart, sophisticated atmosphere. Try the alpaca curry, river fish ceviche or stuffed chicken supreme. There is a café next door. Highly recommended.

$$
Al Grano
, Santa Catalina Ancha 398, T084- 228032. Mon-Sat 1000-2100. Lunchtime menu US$3 is a good option if you are fed up with other menus. Evening serves 5 authentic Asian dishes for US$6, menu changes daily. Without doubt some of the best coffee in town, vegetarian choices and breakfasts, including 'Full English'. Recommended.

$$
A Mi Manera
, Triunfo 393, T084-222219, www.amimaneraperu.com. Remodelled in 2006, imaginative novo andino cuisine with open kitchen. Both great hospitality and a good atmosphere.

$$
Baco
, Ruinas 465, T084-242808, bacorestaurante@yahoo.com. Wine bar and bistro-style restaurant with same owner as
Cicciolina
. Specializes in
degustación
meals for groups, with barbecued and grilled meats, vegetarian dishes, interesting pizzas, and good wines. Unpretentious but comfortable, with a wide range of prices.

$$
El Patio
, Portal de Carnes 236, left of the cathedral. Closed 1530-1830. In a colonial courtyard, pasta, Mediterranean dishes and salads as well as a
good-value lunch. Good for a quick meal; get there early as the sun
disappears around 1300-1330. Recommended.

$$
Kapaj Ñan
, Procuradores 398, kapajnan@ hotmail.com. Attentive service, an interesting mix of Peruvian, Asian and Italian cuisine. This one's a rustic, cosy little hole-in-the-wall and very different from the Gringo Alley standard.

$$
Kintaro
, Heladeros 149. Mon-Sat 1200-2200. Excellent home-made food, set menu (1200-1500) particularly good value at US$3, run by its Japanese owner. Low-fat food is said to be good for high altitude.

$$
Kusikuy
, Suecia 339, T084-292870. Mon- Sat 0800-2300. Some say this serves the best
cuy
(guinea pig, US$10.90) in town and the owners say if you give them an hour's warning they will produce their absolute best. Many other typical Cuzco dishes on the menu. Set lunch is unbeatable value at only US$2. Good service, live music, highly recommended.

$$
Pucará
, Plateros 309. Mon-Sat 1230-2200. Peruvian and international food. Japanese owner does very good aji de gallina (garlic chicken) and cream of potato soup, pleasant atmosphere. Recommended.

$$
The Real McCoy
, Plateros 326, p 2, T084-261111, therealmccoycafelounge@ yahoo.com. A fabulous retreat for homesick Brits and Aussies. The equal best greasy- spoon brekkie in town (the other being
Jack's Café
). There's a good-value breakfast buffet, with PG Tips and Heinz Baked Beans. On offer for dinner are some English classics: roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, etc. Finish it all off with banoffee pie or apple crumble with custard and cream.

$$
Varayoc
, Espaderos 142, T084-232404. Open daily 0800-2400. Swiss-owned restaurant including Peruvian ingredients (the only place in Cuzco that serves cheese fondue US$10-13). Also has a variety of pastas, good desserts, 'tea time' beverage and pastry for US$2.80 accompanied by Andean harp music. Pleasant, literary atmosphere.

$$-$
Yanapay
, Ruinas 415, p 2, T084-255134. A good café serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is run by a charity which supports children's homes; head office at Av Alta 466, T084-245779, www.aldeayanapay.org. They welcome volunteers.

$
El Encuentro
, Santa Catalina Ancha 384, T084-247977, and Choquechaca 136, T084- 225496. One of the best-value eateries, 3 courses of good healthy food and a drink will set you back US$1.35, very busy at lunchtime, more so at Santa Catalina than Choquechaca.

$
El Fogón
, Plateros 365. Huge local
menú del día
, good solid food at reasonable prices. Very popular.

$
El Molino
, Plateros 339. Snug little place that serves excellent pizza.

$
Los Candiles
, Plateros 323. Good set lunch.

$
Paloma Imbil
, Procuradores 362. The
rollo mixto
comes in delicious home-baked bread. Has doner kebabs. For vegetarians the
rollo de falafel y queso
is a tasty option.

$
Víctor Victoria
, Tecsecocha 466, T084-252854 (not to be confused with similar-sounding name at old address on Tigre). Israeli and local dishes, highly recommended for breakfast, good value.

Cafés, delis and panaderías

Amaru
, Plateros 325, 2nd floor, T084-246976. Limitless coffee, tea, great bread and juices served, even on non-buffet breakfasts. Colonial balcony; also a pub serving pizzas, etc. Recommended.

Ayllu
, Portal de Carnes 208, to the left of the cathedral. Probably one of the oldest cafés in
Cuzco and a great place to go. Fantastic break-
fasts (have the special fruit salad, sandwiches,
coffee and classical music as well as wonderful apple pastries. The
ponche con pisco
is an excellent way to end a cold evening. Very much a local venue with superb service.

Café Halliy
, Plateros 363. Popular meeting place, especially for breakfast, good for comments on guides, has good snacks and
copa Halliy
(fruit, muesli, yoghurt, honey and chocolate cake), also serves vegetarian dishes.

Dolce Vita
, Santa Catalina Ancha 366 (with another branch on Márquez), 1000-2100. Delicious Italian ice cream, this
heladería
is an absolute must.

La Tertulia
, Procuradores 50, 2nd floor. Breakfast, served 0630-1300, includes muesli, bread, yoghurt, eggs, juice and coffee, eat as much as you like for US$3, superb value, vegetarian buffet daily 1800-2200, set dinner and salad bar for US$3.50, also fondue and gourmet meals, book exchange, newspapers, classical music. Open till 2300.

Trotamundos
, Portal Comercio 177, 2nd floor. Mon-Sat 0800-2400. One of the most pleasant cafés in the plaza if a bit pricey. Has a balcony overlooking the plaza and a warm atmosphere especially at night with its open fire. Good coffees and cakes, safe salads,
brochetas
, sandwiches and pancakes as well as computers with internet access.

Yaku Mama
, Procuradores 397. Good for breakfast; unlimited fruit and coffee. Service can be slow.

North and northeast of the Plaza de Armas

$$$
Fallen Angel
, Plazoleta Nazarenas 320, T084-258184, www.fallenangelincusco.com. Like nowhere else. This is the 2nd venture of Cuzco native Andrés Zúñiga (the other being
Macondo
- see below). The menu features steaks and some innovative pasta dishes. Cocktails are excellent. Live DJ at night. Regular parties/fashion shows are always events to remember. Free Wi-Fi. Mon-Sat 1100 till whenever (bar closes at midnight, kitchen at 2300), Tue and Sun opens at 1500. Always phone to reserve.

$$$
MAP Café
, Plaza de las Nazarenas 231, a glass structure in the
Museo de Arte
Precolombino
, T084-242476, www.map- cafe.com. Operates as a café 1000-1830 and a restaurant 1830-2200. Serves excellent Peruvian-Andean cuisine and international food, with an innovative children's menu. It has a very good list of wines and
piscos
. After your museum visit, this is an ideal place for tea or coffee or a sophisticated meal.

$$
L'Osteria della Locanda
, Quiskapata 215, T084-252551, riserve@osteriadella locanda.com. In the same group as Piccola Locanda and an Italian/Peruvian-run tour company. Closed Sun, open Mon-Sat, evenings only; book in advance if possible. Excellent handmade Italian food, fresh pasta, pizza and lasagna created as you wait with imported olive oil and parmesan. US$0.50 per table goes towards 2 family-run children's projects in the area.

$
Café Cultural Ritual
, Choquechaca 140. Good value and tasty vegetarian
menú
, including some decent Indian dishes (the veggie curry is good).

Cafés, delis and panaderías

Chocolate
, Choquechaca 162, T984752172(mob). Good for coffee and cakes but the real highlights are the fresh gourmet chocolates (up to European standards).

San Blas

$$
Jack's Café
, on the corner of Choquechaca and San Blas. T084-806960. Opens at 0630 for great-value English breakfast. Excellent varied menu with generous portions, all in a light and relaxed atmosphere. Fabulous American-style pancakes and freshly ground local coffee. Lunchtime can be very busy.

$$
La Bodega
, Carmen Alto 146. Snug Dutch- and Peruvian-owned café/restaurant serving hot chocolate by candlelight in the afternoons and with evening meals. Dishes come with side trip to salad bar, American breakfast and a good-value lunch menu. Highly recommended.

$$
Macondo
, Cuesta San Blas 571, T084-229415. Bit pricier than others in this range but fantastic. A casual, cosy, arty and comfortable restaurant that's been redecorated under a change of ownership. Serves an exotic menu with jungle and
novo andino
food. It also has an art gallery. Popular, and a steep 3-block walk from the plaza. Happy hour 1500-1800. Visa attracts a 10% surcharge. Recommended.

$$
Pachapapa
, Plazoleta San Blas 120, opposite church of San Blas, T084-241318. Open 1130-2200. A beautiful patio restaurant in a wonderful old colonial house, with resident harp player. Under same ownership as
Inka Grill
. Very good Cuzqueña dishes, including
pachamanca
(previous reservation required for 6 people). At night, diners can sit in their own private colonial dining room. Recommended.

$$
Tika Bistro Gourmet
, Tocuyeros 566, T084-237900, www.tikabistro.com. A snug, beautifully decorated little eatery, underneath the
Casa San Blas
, offers an eating experience on par with London or Paris. Dishes range from filling and beautifully presented stuffed meats with spicy risottos, through to oriental plates of
spicy beef wantons and spring rolls of various flavours, served with a variety of mouth-watering sauces. The wine list, largely Latin American, is excellent, as is the service.

$$
Witches Garden
, Loreto 125, T084-244077, www.witchesgarden.net. Good
novo andino
, Québécois and international cuisine served in this warmly decorated little restaurant; the chicken and beef dishes, the Montreal Classic Combo and the desserts are recommended. There's TV and video, with a selection of movies, available for patrons. French- Canadian owned.

$$-$
Mundo Hemp
, Qanchipata 596, www.mundohemp.com. Focaccia bread, interesting savoury pancakes, quiche and good fresh juices. Nice atmosphere with a beautiful sunny courtyard, lots of cushions inside, a colourful place and great for chilling out, but the food's overpriced for what you get. Also has a shop selling hemp products.

$
Granja Heidi
, Cuesta San Blas 525, T084-238383. Offers 3- or 4-course
menú del
día
in a clean and relaxed environment. There are usually vegetarian options; superb yoghurt, granola, ricotta cheese and honey and other breakfast options.

$
Gypsy Pub
, Carmen Alto 162-C. Comfy bar/restaurant a little further down the street from
La Bodega
. Good
menú del día
and the chicken is some of the best in Cuzco.

$
Inkafe
, Choquechaca 131-A, T084-258073, www.inkafe.com.pe. Good coffee, set breakfasts and good-value lunch menus. Range of sandwiches in French bread and good desserts. English spoken.

Cafés, delis and panaderías

Juanito's Sandwich Café
, Carmen Alto 227. Cuzco's answer to a university greasy spoon burger bar. Great grilled veggie and meaty burgers and sandwiches with titles like 'La Cabaña' and the '4 x 4'. Coffee, tea and hot chocolate. Juanito himself is a great character, staff are friendly, and the café stays open late, a classic post-club/party retreat.

The Muse
, Tandapata 682, Plazoleta San Blas. Funky little café with a cosy feel and great views over the plaza. Fresh coffee locally grown in Quillabamba, good food, including vegetarian lasagne, chicken curry, carrot cake and the best smoothies in town. There's often live music in the afternoons/evenings with no cover charge. English owner Clair is very helpful.
The Muse
will refill water bottles for a small charge in an attempt to minimize plastic waste in Cuzco.

Panadería El Buen Pastor
, Cuesta San Blas 579. Very good bread and pastries, the proceeds from which go to a charity for orphans and street children. Very popular with backpackers. Recommended.

Velluto
, Tandapata 700, T084-240966. A great place for crêpes, savoury and sweet.

East and southeast of the Plaza de Armas

$$
Inkanato
, San Agustín 280, T084-222926, www.perou.net. Good food, staff dressed in Inca outfits and dishes made only with ingredients known in Inca times.

$$
Los Toldos
, Almagro 171 y San Andrés 219.
If you're feeling peckish, on a budget and fancy
being served by waiters in a bow tie, try their great chicken
brocheta
. Comes with fries, a
trip to the salad bar and is enough for 2 people
at just US$2.30. Also
trattoria
with home- made pasta and pizza, delivery T084-229829.

$
Chifa Sipan
, Quera 251 (better than their other branch for tourists in Plateros). Owner Carlos may not sound Chinese but he is and
joins in the cooking at this excellent restaurant
. There is no great ambience but it's busy at
lunchtimes with locals, which speaks volumes. Skip to the back of the menu for better deals.

South and southwest of the Plaza de Armas

$
Kachivache
, Juan de Dios 260, T084- 255856, kachivache_peru@yahoo.es. Tasty Spanish cuisine, bruschettas, sandwiches and grilled meats, vegetarian options available. Prices are very reasonable. Relaxed atmosphere, a good spot for a leisurely lunch.

$
Santa Ana market
, to eat really cheaply, and if your stomach is acclimatized to South American food, head for the market 5 blocks southwest of the Plaza de Armas at Túpac
Amaru and eat at one of the many stalls. Food
will cost no more than US$0.70 and 3-fruit juices are just US$0.45! Otherwise, look for the set
menús
, usually served 1200- 1500, although they are no good for vegetarians.

Cafés, delis and panaderías

Café Manu
, Av Pardo 1046. Good coffee and good food too in a jungle decor. It would be a sin to miss one of their liqueur coffees.

Moni
, San Agustín 311, T084-231029, www.moni-cusco.com. Peruvian/ English-owned, good fresh food and breakfast, British music, magazines, bright, clean and comfy.

Bars and clubsCuzco cityBars

Bar 7
, Tandapata 690, San Blas, T084-506472. Good food and drinks in a trendy bar specializing in local ingredients.

Big Blue Martini
, Tecseccocha 148, T084- 248839. Sophisticated, split-level sofa bar with funky lighting, very good cocktails, food and a lively music scene. There are jazz sessions on Thu, and a guest DJ on the decks on Sat.

Cross Keys Pub
, Portal Confiturías 233 (upstairs). 1100-0130. Run by Barry Walker of
Manu Expeditions
, a Mancunian and ornithologist. Darts, cable sports, pool, bar meals, plus daily half-price specials Sun-Wed, great
pisco sours
, very popular, loud and raucous, great atmosphere.

Indigo
, Tecseccocha 2, p 2, T084-260271. Shows 3 films a day, also has a lounge and cocktail bar and serves Asian and local food. A log fire keeps out the night-time cold.

Km 0 (Arte y Tapas)
, Tandapata 100, San Blas. Lovely Mediterranean-themed bar tucked in behind San Blas. Good snacks and tapas (of course), affordable, and with live music every night (around 2200 - lots of acoustic guitar, etc).

Los Perros Bar
, Tecseccocha 436, above Gringo Alley (Procuradores). A great place to chill on comfy couches listening to excellent music. There's a book exchange, English and other magazines and board games. Opens 1100 for coffee and pastries; kitchen opens at 1300; very good vegetarian lunch, closes 0100. Occasionally hosts live music and special events.

Mandela's Bar
, Palacios 121, 3rd floor, T084-222424, www.mandelasbar.com. Bar/restaurant with an African theme. Good atmosphere, live music on Thu, Fri, Sat; lots of space to spread out and relax. Serves breakfast, lunch and drinks in the evening, also Sun barbecues and special events all year. Proceeds of Wed pub quiz go to street children. The food is a Cuzqueña/South African mix. Great 360° panorama from the rooftop.

Norton Rat's Tavern
, Santa Catalina Angosta 116, nortonrats@yahoo.com. New location with a fine, sunny balcony overlooking the corner of the Plaza de Armas. Pleasant, popular pub with a pool table, dart boards and other games, cable TV and lots of pictures of motorbikes! Owner Jeffrey Powers loves the machines and can provide information for bikers. Opens at 0700 for breakfast, and through the day till 0230, serves burgers etc and a full Mexican menu. Ask here about Jeffrey Powers' new hostal,
Gocta II
, due to open late 2008.

Paddy Flaherty's
, C Triunfo 124, corner of the plaza, 1300-0100. An Irish theme pub, deservedly popular. Good seating and great food - the jacket potatoes, shepherd's pie and baguettes are all highly recommended.

Rosie O'Grady's
, at Santa Catalina Ancha 360, T084-247935. Open 1100 till late (food served till midnight, happy hours 1300-1400, 1800-1900, 2300-2330). Has good music, tasty food. English and Russian spoken.

Siete Angelitos
, Siete Angelitos 638. Tiny hole-in-the-wall bar, just a couple of rooms really, but spectacular cocktails and good food (especially the pasta dishes and steaks), a friendly owner by the name of Walter and an awesome atmosphere when things get going. Often hosts guest DJs, ranging from Latin to trance.

Clubs

Before your evening meal don't turn down flyers being handed out around the Plaza de Armas. Each coupon not only gives you free entry, it is worth a
cuba
libre
. On the back of this tour you will be able to check out which club most suits your tastes. Sadly, the free entry-and-drink system doesn't appear to apply to Peruvians who are invariably asked to pay, even if their tourist companions get in for free. This discrimination should be discouraged. Also note that free drinks are made with the cheapest, least healthy alcohol; always watch your drink being made and obviously never leave it unattended. If you fancy learning a few Latin dance steps before hitting the dancefloor, many of the clubs offer free lessons. Ask at the door for details or look out for flyers.

El Garabato Video Music Club
, Espaderos 132, 3rd floor. Daily 1600-0300. Dance area, lounge for chilling, bar with saddles for stools, tastefully decorated in a colonial setting, with live shows 2300-0300 (all sorts of styles) and a large screen showing music videos. Recommended.

Extreme
, on Suecia, next door to
Magtas Bar
. An old Cuzco staple. Movies are shown late afternoon and early evening, but after midnight this place really gets going with an eclectic range of music, from 60s and 70s rock and pop to techno and trance. This place seems to give out more free drinks than most, so it's a good option for kicking off a big night on the town!

Kamikaze
, plaza Regocijo 274, T084-233865. Peña at 2200, good old traditional rock music, candle-lit cavern atmosphere, entry US$2.50 but usually you don't have to pay.

Mama Africa
, Portal de Harinas, 2nd floor. Cool music and clubbers' spot. Serves good food from a varied menu, happy hour until 2300, good value.

Mythology
, Portal de Carnes 298, p 2. Tucked in the corner of the Plaza, this was one of the 'in spots' in 2007, but don't expect cutting-edge tunes. It's more an early 80s and 90s combination of cheese, punk and classic. They also show movies in the afternoons.

Roots
, Plateros 354. Play mostly reggae, but there are other styles too, good atmosphere and popular.

Ukuku's
,
Plateros 316. US$1.35 entry or free with a pass. This is somewhat different to the other clubs as every night there is a live band that might play anything from rock to salsa. The DJ then plays a mixture of Peruvian and international music but the emphasis is on local. It has a good mix of
cuzqueños
and tourists. Videos are shown here at 1600 and 1800. Films are free with any purchase.

EntertainmentCuzco city

Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo
, Av Sol 604, T084-227901. There's a regular nightly folklore show here 1900-2030, entrance on the BTG visitors' ticket or U$5.

Teatro Inti Raymi
, Saphi 605. Music nightly at 1845, US$4.50 entry and well worth it.

Teatro Municipal
, C Mesón de la Estrella 149 (T084-227321 for information 0900-1300 and 1500-1900). This is a venue for plays, dancing and shows, mostly Thu-Sun. Ask for their programmes. They also run classes in music and dancing Jan-Mar that are great value.

Festivals and eventsCuzco city

20 Jan
A procession of saints in the
San Sebastián
district of Cuzco.

Feb/Mar
Carnival
in Cuzco is a messy affair with flour, water, cacti, rotten fruit and manure thrown in the streets. Be prepared.

Mar/Apr
Easter Mon sees the procession of
El Señor de los Temblores
(Lord of the Earthquakes), starting at 1600 outside the cathedral. A large crucifix is paraded through the streets, returning to the plaza de Armas around 2000 to bless the tens of thousands of people who have assembled there.

2-3 May
The
Vigil of the Cross
takes place at all mountaintops with crosses on them, is a boisterous affair.

Jun
Corpus Christi
, on the Thu after Trinity Sunday, when all the statues of the Virgin and of saints from Cuzco's churches are paraded through the streets to the cathedral. This is a colourful event. The Plaza de Armas is surrounded by tables with women selling
cuy
(guinea pig) and a mixed grill called
chiriuchu
(
cuy
, chicken, tortillas, fish eggs, water-weeds, maize, cheese and sausage) and lots of Cusqueña beer.

Jun
Qoyllur Rit'i
(Snow Star Festival), held at a 4700-m glacier north of Ocongate (Ausangate), 150 km southeast of Cuzco. It has its final day 58 days after Easter Sun. Getting there involves a 2-hr walk up from the nearest road at Mawayani, beyond Ocongate, then it's a further exhausting climb up to the glacier. It's a good idea to take a tent, food and plenty of warm clothing. Many trucks leave Cuzco, from Limacpampa, in the days prior to the full moon in mid-Jun; prices from US$2 upwards. This is a very rough and dusty overnight journey lasting 14 hrs, requiring warm clothing and coca leaves to fend off cold and exhaustion. Several agencies offer tours .

24 Jun
Inti Raymi
, the Inca festival of the winter solstice , where locals outnumber tourists, is enacted at the fortress of Sacsayhuaman. The spectacle starts at 1000 at the Qoricancha (crowds line the streets and jostle for space to watch), then proceeds to the Plaza de Armas. From there performers and spectators go to Sacsayhuaman for the main event, which starts at 1300. It lasts 2½ hrs and is in Quechua. Locals make a great day of it, watching the ritual from the hillsides and cooking potatoes in pits in the ground. Tickets for the stands can be bought in advance from the
Emufec
office, Santa Catalina Ancha 325 (opposite the Complejo Policial), and cost US$80 (less if bought Mar-May). Standing places on the ruins are free but get there at about 1030 as even reserved seats fill up quickly, and defend your space. Travel agents can arrange the whole day for you, with meeting points, transport, reserved seats and packed lunch. Don't believe anyone who tries to persuade you to buy a ticket for the right to film or take photos. On the night before
Inti Raymi
, the Plaza de Armas is crowded with processions and food stalls. Try to arrive in Cuzco 15 days before Inti Raymi. The atmosphere in the town during the build up is fantastic and something is always going on (festivals, parades, etc).

Last Sun in Aug
The
Huarachicoy Festival
at Sacsayhuaman is a spectacular re-enactment of the Inca manhood rite, performed in dazzling costumes by boys of a local school.

8 Sep
Day of the Virgin
, when there's a colourful procession of masked dancers from the church of Almudena, at the southwest edge of Cuzco, near Belén, to the Plaza de San Francisco. There is also a fair at Almudena, and a bull fight the following day.

8 Dec
Cuzco Day
, when churches and museums close at 1200.

24 Dec
Santuranticuy
, 'the buying of saints'. This is a huge celebration of Christmas shopping with a big crafts market in the Plaza de Armas, which is very noisy until the early hrs of the 25th.

ShoppingCuzco cityArts and crafts

Cuzco has some of the best craft shopping in all Peru. In the Plaza San Blas and the surrounding area, authentic Cuzco crafts still survive and woodworkers can be seen in almost any street. A market is held on Sat. The main market for artisans' stalls is at the bottom of Av Sol. There are also small markets of 10 or so permament stalls dotted around the city that offer goods made from alpaca as well as modern materials.

Cuzco is also the weaving centre of Peru and excellent textiles can be found at good value; but watch out for sharp practices when buying gold and silver objects and jewellery. Note that much of the wood used for picture frames, etc, is
cedro
, a rare timber not extracted by sustainable means.

Agua y Tierra
, Plazoleta Nazarenas 167, and also at Cuesta San Blas 595, T084-226951. Excellent quality crafts from lowland rainforest communities, largely the Shipibo and Ashaninka tribes from the Selva Central whose work is considered to be among the finest in the Amazon Basin.

Alpaca 3
, Ruinas 472. Quality alpaca items.

Apacheta
, Santa Catalina 313, T084-238210, www.apachetaperu.com. Replicas of Pre-Inca and Inca textiles, ceramics, alpaca goods, contemporary art gallery, and books on Andean culture.

Arte Vivo del Cusco al Mundo
, on the right- hand side in Capilla San Ignacio, Plaza de Armas. Open 1030-1300, 1530-2100. The outlet for 2 cooperatives of weavers.

Calas
, Siete Angelitos 619-B, San Blas. Handmade silver jewellery in interesting designs and alpaca goods from the community of Pitumarca.

Carlos Chaquiras
, Triunfo 375 y Portal Comercio 107, T084-227470, www.carlos chaquiras.com. 1000-1930. Upmarket jewellery, with lots of Inca figures, among
other designs, enhanced with semi-precious stones and shells.

Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco
, Av Sol 603, T084-228117, www.textilescusco.org. A non-profit organization that promotes the weaving traditions of the area. Tours of work- shops in Chinchero and beyond, also weaving classes. In the Cuzco outlet you can watch weavers at work. Excellent quality textiles at prices reflecting the fact that over 50% goes direct to the weaver. Recommended.

Hilo
, Carmen Alto 260, T084-254536. Fashion gear for ladies and gents. Each item in this tiny little shop is designed separately and handmade on-site. Influences seem to range from Inca to Heidi and back to Madonna's finest hour. Run by patrons Eibhlin Cassidy and Avikal Elphee (Evi and Avi), they can adjust and tailor their designs, and they sometimes offer 'The best Chai this side of Mumbai' to their customers.

Ilaria
, Portal Carrizos 258, T084-246253, and in hotels
Monasterio
,
Libertador
and at the airport. Branches of the recommended jewellery and silver stores from Lima.

Inkantations
, Choquechaca 200. Radical baskets made from natural materials in all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes. Also ceramics and Andean weavings. Interesting and original.

Josefina Olivera
, Portal Comercio 173, Plaza de Armas. She sells old ponchos and antique
mantas
(shawls), without the usual haggling. Her prices are high, but it is worth it to save pieces being cut up to make other items, open daily 1100-2100.

Kuna by Alpaca 111
, Plaza Regocijo 202, T084-243233. High-quality alpaca clothing, with shops also in hotels
Monasterio
,
Libertador
and
Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge
, and at the airport.

La Mamita
, Portal de Carnes 244, Plaza de Armas, sells the ceramics of
Seminario- Behar
, plus cotton, basketry, jewellery, etc.

La Pérez
, Urb Mateo Pumacahua 598, Huanchac, T084-232186. A big cooperative with a good selection. They will arrange a free pickup from your hotel.

Maky Artesanías
, Carmen Alto 101, T084- 653643. Individually designed ceramics. Ask for discounts if buying several pieces.

Mullu
, Triunfo 120, T084-229831. Silver jewellery with semi-precious stones and cotton clothing with interesting designs, open Mon-Sat 1000-2100.

Pedazo de Arte
, Plateros 334B. A tasteful collection of Andean handicrafts, many designed by Japanese owner Miki Suzuki.

Primitiva
, Hatun Rumiyoc 495, T084-260152, San Blas, www.coscio.com. Excellent Peruvian contemporary art gallery, largely featuring the work of Federico Coscio.

Spondylus
, Cuesta San Blas 505 y Plazoleta San Blas 617, T084-226929, spondylus cusco@mixmail.com. Interesting jewellery in gold and silver, also using semi-precious stones and shells. They also sell T-shirts featuring Inca and pre-Inca designs.

Store of the Weavers
(Asociación Central de Artesanos y Artesanas del Sur Andino Inkakunaq Ruwaynin), Av Tullumayo 274, T084-233466, www.cbc.org.pe/ tejidosandinos. A store administered by 6 local weaving communities, some of whose residents you can see working on site. All profits go to the weavers themselves. Most of the work utilizes traditional dyes and the fine quality of the
mantas
and other textiles on sale makes this store well worth a visit.

Taki Museo de Música de los Andes
, Hatunrumiyoq 487-5. Shop and workshop selling and displaying musical instruments, knowledgeable owner, who is an ethnomusicologist. Recommended.

Books

Centro de Estudios Regionales Andinos Bartolomé de las Casas
, Av Tullumayo 465, T084-233472, www.cbc.org.pe. Mon-Sat 1100-1400, 1600-1900. Good books on Peruvian history, archaeology, etc. Head office is at Pampa de La Alianza 164, T084-245415.

Jerusalem
, Heladeros 143, T084-235408. English books, guidebooks, music, postcards, book exchange (3 for 1).

SBS (Special Book Services)
, Av Sol 781-A, opposite the post office, T084-248106, Mon-Fri 0830-1330, 1530-1930, Sat 0830-1300.

The Sun
, Plazoleta Limacpampa Chico 471. This café/restaurant has the best book exchange, 1 for 1, run by an Australian.

Camping equipment

There are several places on Plateros that rent out equipment but check it carefully as it is common for parts to be missing. A deposit of US$100 is asked, plus credit card, passport or plane ticket. Wherever you hire equipment, check the stoves carefully. White gas (
bencina
) costs US$1.50 per litre and can be bought at hardware stores, but check the purity. Stove spirit (
alcohol para quemar
) is available at pharmacies. Blue gas canisters, costing US$5, can be found at some hardware stores and at shops which rent gear. You can also rent equipment through travel agencies.

Edson Zuñiga Huillca
, Mercado Rosaspata, Jr Abel Landeo P-1, T084-802831, T084-984- 937243 (mob). 3 mins from Plaza de Armas, for repair of camping gear and footwear, also equipment rental, open 24 hrs a day, 7 days a week, English and Italian spoken.

Tatoo Adventure Gear
, C del Medio 130, T084-254211, www.tatoo.ws. Adventure gear, high-quality hiking, climbing and camping gear, big brand names: Colombia, Gore-Tex, Polartec, etc. The house brand, Tatoo, produces good trousers, thermals, fleeces and jackets. Imported hiking boots. Tatoo also has a branch in Pisac: Plaza Constitución 621, F084-246698 and another branch in Larcomar shopping centre in Lima.

Food

Casa Ecológica Cusco
, Triunfo 393, www.casaecologicacusco.com. Organic foods, wild honey, coffee, granola. Also offers natural medicines, indigenous art and weavings. They claim to pay fair prices when dealing with local suppliers.

La Cholita
, Portal Espinar 142-B and at airport. Extra-special chocolates made with local ingredients.

Markets

San Jerónimo
, just out of town, is the wholesale Sat morning fruit and vegetable market, but food that's just as good and not much more expensive (and washed) can be bought at the markets in town:
Wanchac
, Av Garcilaso (not C Garcilaso), or
Santa Ana
, opposite Estación San Pedro, which sells a variety of goods. The best value is at closing time or in the rain. Take care after dark. Sacks to cover rucksacks are available in the market for US$0.75. Both Huanchac and Santa Ana open every day from 0700.

El Molino
, under the Puente Grau, is for contraband goods brought in from abroad without duty or tax being paid, but it is tolerated by the authorities. Everything from computers to Hi-Fis, personal stereos to trekking boots, cheap camera film to wine can be bought here (take a taxi for US$0.60). It is clean and safe (but take the usual common sense precautions about valuables) and is open daily 0600-2030.

Supermarkets

La Canasta
, Av La Cultura 2000 block. Very well stocked, takes credit cards, ATM outside.

D'Dinos Market
, Av La Cultura 2003, T084-252656 for home delivery. Open 24-hrs, well supplied, takes credit cards.

Gato's Market
, Portal Belén 115.

Mega Market
, Matará 271, and Av Garcilaso at Plaza Tupac, Amaru. Daily 0700-2200, credit cards accepted. US-style.

Activities and toursCuzco city

There are a million and one tour operators in Cuzco, most of whom are packed into the Plaza de Armas. The sheer number and variety of tours on offer is bewildering and prices for the same tour can vary dramatically. You should only deal directly with the agencies and seek advice from visitors returning from trips. Agencies listed below are included under the field in which they are best known. City tours cost about US$7.15 and last 4 hrs; check what sites are included (either too few or too rushed) and that the guide is experienced. Beware of tours that stop for long lunches at pricey hotels. Check if there are cancellation fees. Students will normally receive a discount on production of an ISIC card.

You could also consider hiring a private guide. As most of the sights do not have any information or signs in English, this can really improve your visit. Either arrange this before you set out or grab one of those hanging around the sights' entrances (this is much easier to do in the low season). A tip is expected at the end of the tour. Set prices: City tour US$35-50 per day; Urubamba/ Sacred Valley US$40-75, Machu Picchu and other ruins US$50-200 per day.
Leap Local, www.leaplocal.org,
is a website that recommends good quality local guides.

There are also many Cuzco-based operators offering trips and tours to see Manu Biosphere Reserve. For full details of these operators and all the tours on offer .

City, Inca Trail and general tours

Only a restricted number of agencies are licensed to operate Inca Trail trips.
INRENA
, Av José Gabriel Cosio 308, Urb Magisterial, 1 etapa, T084-229297,
www.inrena.gob.pe, verifies operating permits. Other agencies will sell Inca Trail trips, but pass clients on to the operating agency in a pooling system. This can cause confusion and booking problems at busy times.

Inclusion in our list does not guarantee that the company is licensed to operate the Inca Trail (2008).
All those listed below have been recommended for their services (except for any reservations noted). Many agencies, and the alternatives they offer, can be found in the trip reports in the
South America Explorers'
(www.saexplorers.org) clubhouse at Choquechaca 188 (for members only).

Amazing Peru
, C Yepez Miranda C-6, Magisterio, www.amazing peru.com. Professional and well-organized, recommended as providing the "perfect tour", knowledgeable guides.

Amazon Trails Peru
, Tandapata 660, Cuzco, T/F084-437499, T084-984-741735 (mob), www.amazontrailsperu.com. Trekking tours around the area, including the Inca Trail, Salkantay and Choquequirao.

Andean Treks
, Av Pardo 705, T084-225701, www.andeantreks.com. Mon-Fri 0900-1300, 1500-1800, Sat 0900-1300. Manager Tom Hendrickson uses high-quality equipment and satellite phones. The company organizes interesting itineraries, from 2 to 15 days, with a wide variety of activities in this area and further afield.

Andina Travel
, Plazoleta Santa Catalina 219, T084-251892, www.andinatravel.com. Agency specializing in trekking and biking. One of the company's specialities is the Lares Valley programme, which works together with some of the valley's traditional weaving communities and provides employment for village residents - many trekking variations are possible in this area.

Big Foot
, Triunfo 392 (of 213), T084-984 913851, www.bigfootcusco.com. Specialists in tailor-made hiking trips, especially in the remote corners of the Vilcabamba and Vilcanota mountains. Also the more conventional Inca Trail routes.

Ch'aska
, Plateros 325, 2nd floor, T084-240424, www.chaskatours.com. Dutch-Peruvian company that has quickly acquired a solid reputation offering cultural, adventure, nature and esoteric tours. They specialize in the Inca Trail, but also llama treks to Lares and recommended trips to Choquequirao and beyond.

Culturas Peru
, Tandapata 345A, T084-243629, www.culturasperu.com. A Swiss-Peruvian company offering adventure, cultural, ecological and spiritual tours. They specialize in alternative Inca trails.

Destinos Turísticos
, Portal de Panes 123, of 101-102, Plaza de Armas, T084-228168, www.destinosturisticosperu.com.
The owner speaks Spanish, English, Dutch and Portuguese and specializes in package tours from economy to 5-star budgets. Individuals are welcome to come in for advice on booking jungle trips to renting mountain bikes. Ask in advance if you require guides with specific languages. Informative and helpful.

Ecotrek Peru
, Totorapaccha 769, T084-247286, T084-984 704847 (mob), www.ecotrekperu.com.
Scot and long-time Cuzco resident Fiona Cameron runs this environmentally friendly tour agency, Ecotrek, offering a wide range of adventures through their excellent website, specializing in little visited areas such as the Pongo de Mainique and Espíritu Pampa/Vilcabamba Vieja. Fiona's partner, David Ugarte, is a mountain biking specialist and will tailor 2-wheeled adventures as required. David speaks fluent English, has a degree in tourism, and is great fun to hang out with. He can be contacted direct on T084-984 744810 (mob). Both David and Fiona pride themselves on fair treatment of local staff and communities. Tour prices (mid-range) are dependent on group numbers and type of service required. Fiona also manufactures a range of organic soaps.

Enigma Adventure
, Jr Clorinda Matto de Turner 100, Magisterio 1a etapa, T084-222155, www.enigmaperu.com. Adventure tour agency run by Spaniard Silvia Rico Coll. Has an excellent reputation for well-organized and innovative trekking expeditions. In addition to the regular Inca Trail, she offers, for example, a 7-day programme to the remote and beautiful Laguna Sibinacocha, in the Vilcanota Mountains, or a 3-night trek into the Lares Valley. Set departures and fixed prices on some routes, but on the more remote excursions prices depend on group numbers. Also cultural tours to traditional weaving communities, Ayahuasca therapy and can arrange climbing and biking itineraries on demand.

Explorandes
, Av Garcilaso 316-A (not to be confused with C Garcilaso in the centre), T084-238380, www.explorandes.com. Experienced high-end adventure company. Their main office is in Lima, but trips can be arranged from Cuzco. Vast range of trips available in both Peru and Ecuador, easily booked through their well-organized website. Also arranges tours across Peru for lovers of orchids, ceramics or textiles. Award-winning environmental practices.

Gatur Cusco
, Puluchapata 140 (a small street off Av Sol 3rd block), T084-223496, www.gaturcusco.com. Esoteric, ecotourism, and general tours. Owner Dr José (Pepe) Altamirano is knowledgeable in Andean folk traditions. Excellent conventional tours, bilingual guides and transportation, helpful. Guides speak English, French, Spanish and German. They can also book internal flights.

Hiking Peru
, Portal de Panes 109, office 6, T084-247942/ T084-984 651414(mob), www.hiking peru.com. Concentrates on the less-beaten paths, eg 8-day treks to Espíritu Pampa, 7 days/6 nights around Ausangate, 4-day/3-night Lares Valley Trek.

Inca Explorers
, Ruinas 427, T084-241070, www.incaexplorers.com. Specialist trekking agency with a good reputation for small group expeditions executed in socially and environmentally responsible manner. More demanding, adventurous trips include a 2-week hike in the Cordillera Vilcanota (passing Nevado Ausangate), and Choque- quirao to Espíritu Pampa, again for 2 weeks.

Liz's Explorer
, Medio 114B, T084-246619, www.lizexplorer.com. For the Inca Trail and other trips. Inca Trail 4-day/3-night (minimum group size 10, maximum 16), other length of trips available. Liz gives a clearly laid out list of what is and what is not included. Down and fibre sleeping bags can be hired. If you need a guide who speaks a language other than English let her know in advance. Also city tours and the Sacred Valley. Feedback on trip is good, less so for the office.

Llama Path
, San Juan de Dios 250, T084-240822, www.llamapath.com. A wide variety of local tours, the company is involved in environmental campaigns. Many good reports received.

Machete Tours
, Tecseccocha 161, T084-224829, T084-984 631662 (mob), info@machetetours.com. Founded by born-and-bred jungle hand Ronaldo and his Danish partner Tina,
Machete
offer many innovative trekking trips, for example a 9-day traverse of the Cordillera Vilcabamba from the Apurímac Canyon and Choquequirao across the range to Machu Picchu itself. They also offer expeditions to Espíritu Pampa, Ausangate and the Inca Trail. They have a new rainforest lodge on the remote Río Blanco, south of the Manu Biosphere Reserve and have set up camps deep in the forest. These jungle trips are focused more on hiking and rustic 'adventure' than those of the classic Manu operators. Not all the guides speak English so check this before details are confirmed. Eric is a recommended guide for Choquequirao.

Manu Nature Tours
, Av Pardo 1046, T084-252721, www.manuperu.com. Trips to Manu Biosphere Reserve. Owned by Boris Gómez Luna, English spoken.

Perú Planet
, Suecia 318, T084-251145, www. peru-planet.net. Peruvian/ Belgian-owned agency offering tours of the Inca Trail, other treks around Cuzco and packages within Peru. Also Bolivia and Patagonia.

Peru Treks and Adventure
, Av Pardo 540, T084-222722, www.perutreks.com. Trekking agency set up by Englishman Mike Weston and his wife Koqui González. They pride themselves on good treatment of porters and support staff and have been consistently recommended for their professionalism and customer care. A portion of profits goes to community projects (school supplies and clothing accepted at office). Treks include Salkantay, the Lares Valley and Vilcabamba Vieja. Mike also runs the
Andean Travel Web
, www.andeantravel web.com, which focuses on sustainable tourism in the region.

Q'ente
, Choquechaca 229, p 2, T084-233722, www.qente.com. Their Inca Trail service is recommended and they offer a great variety of treks in the Cuzco area. They also offer traditional tours and longer packages. Prices depend on group size. Very good, especially with children.

SAS Travel
, Garcilaso 270, Plaza San Francisco, T084-249194, www.sastravel peru.com. Discount for students. Inca Trail 4-day/3-night US$460 (can rent down bags for US$20). SAS has its own hostel in Aguas Calientes - if clients wish to stay in Aguas after the trail and return the next morning this can be arranged. SAS offers a variety of alternatives to the classic Inca Trail. Before setting off you are told everything that is included and given advice on what personal items should be taken. Also Manu, mountain bike, horse riding and rafting trips can be organized. All guides speak English (some better than others). They can book internal flights at much cheaper rates than booking from overseas. For many years SAS has enjoyed a solid reputation for its services, but some recent reports have been mixed.

Sky Travel
, Santa Catalina Ancha 366, interior 3-C (down alleyway next to
Rosie O'Grady's
pub), T084-261818, www.skyperu.com. English spoken. General tours around city and Sacred Valley. 4-day/3-night Inca Trail in good-sized double tents and a dinner tent. The group is asked what it would like on the menu 2 days before departure. Other trips include Vilcabamba and Ausangate (trekking only), Colca and Misti (Arequipa) and Titicaca.

Tambo Tours
, 4405 Spring Cypress Rd, Suite 210, Spring, TX 77388, USA, T1-888- 2-GO-PERU (246-7378), T001-281 528 9448, www.2GOPERU.com. Long-established adventure and tour specialist with 20 years' experience in Peru. Offices in Peru and USA. Customized trips for families, individuals and groups to the Amazon and archaeological sites of Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador, including Machu Picchu.

Trekperu
, Ricaldo Palma N-9, Santa Mónica, T084-252899, www.trekperu.com. Experienced trek operator as well as other adventure sports and mountain biking. Offers 'culturally sensitive' tours. 5-day/4-night Cuzco Biking Adventure visits Tipón ruins, Huacarpay Lake, Huanca, Pisac, Urubamba and Moray. Includes support vehicle and good camping gear. Need sleeping bag.

Tucan Travel
, T084-241123, cuzco@tucan travel.com. Offer adventure tours and overland expeditions.

United Mice
, Plateros 351, T084-221139, www.unitedmice.com. Inca Trail and alternatives via Salkantay and Santa Teresa. Good English-speaking guides; Salustio speaks Italian and Portuguese. Discount with student card, good food and equipment. Also city tours in Spanish and English, Sacred Valley Tours in Spanish and English. They offer treks to Choquequirao for 5 days/4 nights.

Wayki Trek
, Procuradores 351, 2nd floor, T084-224092, www.waykitrek.net. Budget travel agency, recommended for their Inca Trail service. Owner Leo grew up in the countryside near Ollantaytambo and knows the area very well. They run treks to several almost unknown Inca sites. Leo offers many interesting variations on the 'classic' Inca Trail and runs a programme where clients can visit porters communities before starting treks. Wayki also run treks to Ausangate, Salkantay and Choquequirao.

X-Treme Tourbulencia
, Plateros 358, T084-222405, www.x-tremetourbulencia. com. They run the Classic Inka Trail and alternative Inka treks, Ausangate, city tours and jungle trips. Associated with
Pony's Expeditions
of Caraz (Cordillera Blanca).

Cultural and shamanic tours

Among the many forms of spiritual tourism offered in the Cuzco region, one that attracts much attention is shamanic and drug experiences. (The following list is not restricted to this type of tourism.) San Pedro and Ayahuasca have been used since before Inca times, mostly as a sacred healing experience. The plants are prepared with special treatments for curative purposes; they have never been considered a drug. If you choose to experience these incredible healing/teaching plants, only do so under the guidance of a reputable agency or shaman and always have a friend with you who is not partaking. If the medicine is not prepared correctly, it can be highly toxic and, in rare cases, severely dangerous. Never buy tours off the streets, never buy from someone who is not recommended and never try to prepare the plants yourself.

Another Planet
, Triunfo 120, T084-229379, www.anotherplanetperu.net. Run by Lesley Myburgh, who operates all kinds of adventure tours and conventional tours in and around Cuzco, but specializes in jungle trips anywhere in Peru. Lesley is an expert in San Pedro cactus preparation and she arranges San Pedro sessions for healing at physical, emotional and spiritual levels in the beautiful garden of her guesthouse,
La Casa de la Gringa
, Pasñapacana y Tandapata 148, San Blas, T084-241168, 984 652006 (mob). This a good place to stay if you are looking for this kind of experience.

Milla Tourism
, Av Pardo 689 y Portal Comercio 195 on the plaza, T084-231710, www.millaturismo.com. Mon-Fri 0800-1300, 1500-1900, Sat 0800-1300. Mystical tours to Cuzco's Inca ceremonial sites such as Pumamarca and the Temple of the Moon. Also private tours arranged to Moray agricultural terracing and Maras salt mines in Sacred Valley. Guide speaks only basic English. They also arrange cultural and environmental lectures and courses.

Eleana Molina
, T084-984 751791, misticanativa@yahoo.com. For Ayahuasca ceremonies.

Mountain biking

Cuzco offers a multitude of rides to suit all abilities. All ideally require a guide as its very easy to get lost in the Andes. Some options are: a half-day tour of nearby
Inca ruins
(Tambo Machay, Qenqo and Sacsayhuaman); don't forget your combined entrance ticket.
Chinchero-Moray-Maras-Las Salinas- Urubamba
: one of the finest one-day trips in Peru, best done with a guide.
Lares Valley
, which offers some incredible down- and uphill options on 2- to 3-day circuits including a relaxing soak in the beautiful Lares hot springs. Various descents from the sierra to the jungle:
Abra Málaga:
from 4200 m, an 80-km descent to the jungle;
Tres Cruces to Manu
, a 250-km, beautiful dirt road
ride offering big climbs and an even bigger (2-day) descent; and
Cuzco-Puerto
Maldo- nado
, possibly the greatest Trans-Andean Challenge on a bike: 550 km of hard work up to 4700 m and down to 230 m on one of the roughest roads there is (with the odd full-on
single track thrown in).

Paragliding and ballooning

Magnificent scenery, soaring close to snow- capped mountains makes this an awesome experience. 45 km from Cuzco is
Cerro Sacro
(3797 m) on the Pampa de Chincheros with 550 m clearance at take-off. It is the launch site for cross-country flights over the Sacred Valley, Sacsayhuaman and Cuzco. Particularly good for parapenting is the
Mirador de Urubamba
, 38 km from Cuzco, at 3650 m, with 800-m clearance and views over Pisac. Note that the Sacred Valley offers exciting but challenging paragliding so if wind conditions are bad, flights may be delayed till the following day. Beware pilots offering suspiciously cheap flights; their experience and equipment is unlikely to be appropriate for the Sacred Valley's conditions.

Globos de los Andes
, Av de la Cultura 220, suite 36, T084-232352, www.globosperu. com. Hot-air ballooning in the Sacred Valley and expeditions with balloons and 4WD lasting several days.

Richard Pethigal
, T084-984 937333 (mob), www.cloudwalkerparagliding.com. Richard offers a condor's-eye view of the Sacred Valley. May-Sep he runs half-day tandem paraglider flights from Cuzco. He is a very experienced pilot, the only one with an international licence in Cuzco, and uses high-quality equipment. He charges US$70 for a 15-30 min flight, but if weather conditions are good, for US$120 he can fly you all the way back to Cuzco, touching down in the ruins of Sacsayhuaman.

Rafting

The Cuzco region is probably the 'rafting capital' of Peru, with more whitewater runs on offer than anywhere else in the country. When looking for an operator please consider more than just the price of your tour. Competition between companies in Cuzco is intense and price wars can lead to compromises in safety as corners are cut or less experienced (and therefore cheaper) guides are hired. Bargaining the price down will have the same effect.
A 1-day rafting trip on the Vilcanota river will cost US$35 for a cheap trip, pooled by various agencies, with up to 30 other tourists. Expect to pay US$75-100 per person for a private trip for 4 people with experienced guides, quality equipment, a safety kayaker and good food. A 3-day Apurímac rafting trip will cost US$200 for a pooled tour with 25-35 participants and no guarantee on equipment, guides, or safety record. Pay around US$500-600 for a safe, high-quality, environmentally-friendly small group trip. If possible take 4 days as it will be more relaxed and will avoid the busiest campsites.
On a large and potentially dang- erous river like the Apurímac, and when any of the rivers are high, this can make all the difference (fatalities occur, most recently in 2008).

Urubamba
Perhaps the most popular day run in the whole country, but sadly one heavily affected in parts by pollution both from Cuzco and from the towns of the Sacred Valley. Clean-up campaigns are organized periodically, but they just touch the surface of the problem. There are various stretches of rafting on the river, from Grade I to Grade V+. Some are available all year, others depend on the season. Ask a reputable operator for recommendations to suit your ability and always heed advice if the river is running high.

Apurímac
Technically the true source of the Amazon , the Apurímac cuts a 2000-m-deep gorge through incredible desert scenery and offers probably some of the finest whitewater rafting sections on the planet. Some are rarely run, such as
The Abyss
or
Choquequirao
(consult an agency which caters for experts), but most popular for a multi-day trip is
Puente Hualpapacha- Punte Cunyac
(May-Nov, Grade IV-V): 3 days (better in 4) of non-stop whitewater through an awesome gorge just 5 hrs drive from Cuzco. Again, book with the experts to get you through rapids with names like
U-first
,
Toothache
and
Last laugh
.

Sports tour operators

The following operators offer a range of adventure sports and activities.

Amazonas Explorer
, Av Collasuyo 910, Miravalle, PO Box 722, T084-239974, www.amazonas-explorer.com. Experts in rafting, inflatable canoeing, horse riding, hiking and biking; used by BBC. English owner Paul Cripps has great experience, but takes most bookings from overseas (in England, T01437-891743). However, he may be able to arrange a trip for travellers in Cuzco. Rafting includes Río Urubamba (1 day), Río Apurímac (3-4 days), Río Tambopata (14 days including Lake Titicaca and Cuzco),
Cotahuasi (14 days, Lima-Arequipa-Cotahuasi-
Lima). Also 5-day/4-night Inca Trail trip of the highest quality, and alternatives to the Inca Trail and Choquequirao to Machu Picchu. Amazonas offer an excellent variation of the Ausangate Circuit, featuring an extension to the little visited Laguna Singrenacocha and an opportunity for ice-climbers to tackle the remote Campa Peak with experienced guides. Multi-activity and family trips are a speciality, catering for all ages, but juniors in particular. All options are at the higher end of the market and are highly recommended. Amazonas Explorer are also the first company to join www.onepercentfortheplanet.org, donating 1% of their turnover to a tree- planting project (in 2007 they planted 14,000 queñual seedlings in the Lares watershed).

Amazonas Explorer
and
Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking
of La Paz, Bolivia (www.gravitybolivia.com) are setting up
Gravity Peru
for biking (eg Backdoor Machu Picchu, Lares, Moray and more), rafting and canoeing trips; look for www.gravityperu. com in late 2008, early 2009.

Apumayo
, Jr Ricardo Palma N-5, Santa Mónica, Wanchaq, T084-246018, www.apumayo.com. Mon-Sat 0900-1300, 1600-2000. Urubamba and Apurímac rafting; Inca Trail trekking. Also mountain biking, eg Maras and Moray in Sacred Valley, or 5-day epic biking from Cuzco to Quillabamba, horse riding, multi-activity and cultural tours. This company also offers tours for disabled people, including rafting.

Camp Expeditions
, Ac Manco Capac 414, of 413, T084-431468, www.campexpedition. net. All sorts of adventure tours, but specialists in climbing, for which they are recommended as most reliable, and trekking.

Eric Adventures
, Velasco Astete B-8-B, T084- 234764, www.ericadventures.com. Specialize in many adventure activities. They clearly explain what equipment is included in their prices and what you will need to bring. They also rent motorcross bikes (US$70-90 per day), mountain bikes (US$20-28 per day) and cars and 4WDs. Prices are more expensive if
you book by email, you can get huge discounts if you book in the office. A popular company.

Instinct
,
Av de la Cultura 1318 Wanchaq, T084-233451, www.instinct-travel.com. Run by the very experienced Juan and Benjamín Muñiz, this company now largely operates through web-based bookings, arranging both multi-week expeditions and shorter adventures for those already in the Cuzco area.
Instinct
offers activities as diverse as surf safaris on Peru's north coast to multi- day horseriding tours in the Sacred Valley.

Manu Expeditions
, C Humberto Vidal Unda G-5, 2a Etapa, Urb Magisterial, T084-239974, www.manuexpeditions.com. As well as Manu
trips , also runs tailor-made bird trips in cloud- and rainforest around
Cuzco and Peru, as well as butterfly watching, and has horse riding and a 9-day/8-night trip to Machu Picchu along a different route from the Inca Trail, rejoining at Sun Gate. Barry runs
horse-supported treks to Choquequirao, starting
from Huancacalle. Highly recommended.

Mayuc
, Portal Confiturías 211, Plaza de Armas, T084-232666, www.mayuc.com, www.perurafting.com, 1 of the longest- running river-rafting adventure companies in Cuzco. Rafting on the Ríos Urubamba and Apurímac.
Mayuc
now have a permanent lodge,
Casa Cusi
, on the upper Urubamba, which forms the basis of 2-day, Grade III-IV trips in the area. Other tours include Inca Trail and alternative routes into Machu Picchu.

The Medina Brothers
, contact Christian or Alain Medina on T084-225163 or 084-98465 3485/98469 1670(mob). Friendly family-run rafting company with good equipment and plenty of experience. They usually focus on day rafting trips in the Sacred Valley, but services are tailored to the needs of the client. Reasonable prices dependent on client numbers. Recommended.

River Explorers & Peru Treks Explorers
, Plateros 328, T084-260926 or T084-984 939883/984 909249 (mob), www.riverexplorers.com. An adventure company offering mountain biking, trekking and rafting trips (on the Apurímac and Urubamba). Experienced and qualified guides and, so far, seem to present a good emphasis on safety and environmental awareness. Apurímac Rafting Trips from US$300.

Terra Explorer Peru
, T084-237352, www.terraexplorerperu.com. Offers a wide range of trips from high-end rafting in the Sacred Valley and expeditions to the Colca and Cotahuasi canyons, trekking the Inca Trail and others, mountain biking, kayaking (including on Lake Titicaca) and jungle trips. All guides are bilingual.

TransportCuzco cityAir

To
Lima
, 55 mins, daily flights with
Taca
,
Star Perú
and
Lan
. Flights are heavily booked in school holidays (May, Jul, Oct and Dec-Mar) and national holidays. To
Arequipa
and to
Puerto Maldonado
, 30 mins each daily with
Lan
.
Star Perú
was planning to start flying to Puerto Maldonado in 2008. To/from
La Paz
with
Aero Sur
, 3 times a week.

Airline offices

Aero Sur
, www.aerosur.com.
Lan
, Av Sol 627-B, T084-225552.
Star Perú
, Av Sol 679, of 1, T084-234060.
Taca
, Av Sol 602, T084- 249921, good service.

BusLocal

Combis run 0500-2200 or 2300, US$0.30, to all parts of the city, including the bus and train stations and the airport, but are not allowed within 2 blocks of the Plaza de Armas. Stops are signed and the driver's assistant calls out the names of stops. By law all passengers are insured. After 2200 combis may not run their full route; demand to be taken to your stop, or better still, use a taxi late at night.

El Tranvía de Cusco
is actually a motor coach that runs on the route of the original Cuzco tramway system. The route starts in the Plaza de Armas (except Sun morning) and ends at the Sacsayhuaman Archaeological Park. There is a 10-min stop at the mirador by the Cristo Blanco before descending to the Plaza de Armas. Departures start at 1000 daily, 1 hr 20 mins, with explanations of the city's history, architecture, customs, etc; US$2, US$1.40 for students with ID. For group reservations, T084-740640.

Long distance

All direct buses to
Lima
(18-20 hrs) go via
Abancay
, 195 km, 5 hrs (longer in the rainy season), and
Nazca
, on the Panamerican Highway. This route is paved, but floods in the wet season can damage sections of the highway. If prone to car sickness, be prepared on the road to Abancay, there are many, many curves, but the scenery is magnificent (it also happens to be a great route for cycling). At Abancay, the road forks, the other branch going to
Andahuaylas
, a further 138 km, 10-11 hrs from Cuzco, and
Ayacucho
in the Central Highlands, another 261 km, 20 hrs from Cuzco. On both routes at night, take a blanket or sleeping bag to ward off the cold. All buses leave daily from the Terminal Terrestre.

Molina
, who also have an office on Av Pachacútec, just past the railway station, has buses on both routes. They run 3 services a day to
Lima
via
Abancay
and
Nazca
, and 1, at 1900, to
Abancay
and
Andahuaylas
.
Cruz del Sur
's service leaves for
Lima
via Abancay at 0730 and 1400, while their more comfortable services depart at 1500 and 1600.
Celtur
and
Los Chankas
have buses to
Abancay
,
Andahuaylas
and
Ayacucho
.
Turismo Ampay
and
Turismo Abancay
go 3 times a day to Abancay, and
Expreso Huamanga
once.
Bredde
has 5 buses a day to Abancay. Fares to
Abancay
US$10,
Andahuaylas
US$14,
Nazca
up to US$42,
Lima
also up to US$42 for a reliable service; also US$51-64 (
Cruz del Sur
,
Cruzero
and
VIP
classes). In Cuzco you may be told that there are no buses in the day from Abancay to Andahuaylas; this is not so -
Señor de Huanca
does so. If you leave Cuzco before 0800, with luck you'll make the onward connection at 1300, which is worth it for the scenery.

To
Lake Titicaca and Bolivia
: To
Juliaca
, 344 km, 6 hrs, US$5-12. The road is fully paved, but after heavy rain buses may not run. To
Puno
, via Juliaca, US$5-12; direct US$8.50 (
bus cama
US$12) 6 hrs.
First Class
, Av Sol 930, and
Inka Express
, Av La Paz C-32, Urb El Ovalo, Wanchac, T084-247887, have a service calling at Andahuaylillas church, Raqchi, La Raya, Sicuani and Pucará en route (lunch, but not entrance tickets, is included), US$30. Travel agencies sell this ticket.

Note

To
Arequipa
, 521 km, US$21;
Cruz del Sur
use the direct paved route via Juliaca and have a
Cruzero/VIP
service at 2030, 10 hrs, US$32/39. Other buses join the new Juliaca-Arequipa road at Imata, 10-12 hrs (eg
Carhuamayo
, 3 a day). To
Tacna
,
San Martín
, T084-805729, at 1430, US$20.

Car

Touring y Automóvil Club del Perú
, Av Sol 349, T084-224561, cusco@touringperu.com. pe. A good source of information on motoring, car hire and mechanics.

Taxi

Taxis have fixed prices: in the centre US$0.60 (US$0.90 after 2200); and to the suburbs US$0.85-1.55 (touts at the airport and train station will always ask much higher fares). In town it is advisable to take municipality- authorized taxis that have a sticker with a number on the window and a chequerboard pattern on the side. Safer still are licensed taxis, which have a sign with the company's name on the roof, not just a sticker in the window. These taxis are summoned by phone and are more expensive, in the centre US$1.25 (
Ocarina
T084-247080,
Aló Cusco
T084-222222).

Taxi trips to
Sacsayhuaman
cost US$10; to the ruins of
Tambo Machay
US$15-20 (3-4 people); a whole-day trip costs US$40-70. For US$50 a taxi can be hired for a whole day (ideally Sun) to take you to
Chinchero
,
Maras
,
Urubamba
,
Ollantaytambo
,
Calca
,
Lamay
,
Coya
,
Pisac
,
Tambo Machay
,
Qenqo
and
Sacsayhuaman
.

To organize your own
Sacred Valley
transport, try one of these taxi drivers, recommended by
South America Explorers
:
Manuel Calanche
, T084-227368, T984 695402 (mob);
Carlos Hinojosa
, T084-251160;
Ferdinand Pinares Cuadros
, Yuracpunco 155, Tahuantinsuyo, T084-225914, T984 681519 (mob), speaks English, French and Spanish;
Eduardo
, T084-231809, speaks English.

Also recommended are:
Angel Marcavillaca Palomino
, Av Regional 877, T084-251822, amarcavillaca@yahoo.com, helpful, patient, reasonable prices;
Movilidad Inmediata
, T984 623821 (mob), runs local tours with an English-speaking guide.
Angel
Salazar
, Marcavalle I-4 Wanchac, T084-224679 (to leave messages), is English-speaking and arranges good tours, very knowledgeable and enthusiastic;
Milton Velásquez
, T084-222638, T984 680730 (mob), is also an
anthropologist and tour guide and speaks English.

Train

All details of the train services out of Cuzco can be found on www.perurail.com. The train to
Puno
leaves at 0800, on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat, arriving in Puno at 1800 (sit on the left for the best views). The train makes a stop to view the scenery at La Raya. Between Nov-Mar there is no train on Fri. There is only one class,
Andean Explorer
, US$143, includes lunch, afternoon tea, and luxury seating.

Tickets can be bought in advance. The ticket office at Wanchac station is open Mon- Fri 0700-1700, Sat 0700-1200. You can buy tickets on www.perurail.com, or through a travel agent. Meals are served on the train.

DirectoryCuzco cityBanks

All the banks along Av Sol have ATMs from which you can withdraw dollars or soles at any hour. Whether you use the counter or an ATM, choose your time carefully as there can be long queues at both. Most banks are closed 1300-1600. All branches offer the same services as else- where in the country.
BCP
, Av Sol 189.
Interbank
, Av Sol y Puluchapata. Next door is
Banco Continental BSCH
, Av Sol 459.
Scotiabank
, Maruri between Pampa del Castillo
and Pomeritos. There are ATMS around the
Plaza de Armas, in San Blas and on Av La Cultura.

Western Union
at Santa Catalina Ancha 165, T084-233727. Money transfers in 10 mins; also at
DHL
.

Many travel agencies and
casas de cambio
change dollars. Some change TCs as well, but charge 4-5% commission. There are many
cambios
on the west side of the Plaza de Armas (eg Portal Comercio) and on the west side of Av Sol, most change TCs (best rates in the
cambios
at the top of Av Sol).
LAC Dólar
, Av Sol 150, T084-257762, Mon-Sat 0900- 2000, with delivery service to central hotels, cash and TCs, is recommended. The street changers hang around Av Sol, blocks 2-3, every day and are a pleasure to do business with. Some of them will also change TCs. In banks and on the street check the notes.

Embassies and consulates

Belgium
, Av Sol 954, T084-221098. Mon-Fri 0900-1300, 1500-1700.
France
, Jorge Escobar, C Micaela Bastidas 101, 4th floor, T084-233610.
Germany
, Sra Maria-Sophia Júrgens de Hermoza, San Agustín 307, T084-235459, acupari@terra. com.pe. Mon-Fri, 1000-1200, appointments may be made by phone, it also has a book exchange.
Ireland
, Charlie Donovan, Santa Catalina Ancha 360 (Rosie O'Grady's), T084-243514.
Ital y
, Sr Fedos Rubatto, Av Garcilaso 700, T084-224398. Mon-Fri 0900-1200, 1500-1700.
Netherlands
, Sra Marcela Alarco, Av El Sol 954, T084-224322, marcela_alarco@yahoo.com. Mon-Fri 0900-1500.
Spain
, Sra Juana María Lambarri, T984
650106 (mob).
UK
, Barry Walker, Av Pardo 895, T084-239974, bwalker@amauta. rcp.net.pe.
US Agent
, Dra Olga Villagarcía, Apdo 949, Cuzco, T084-222183, consagent cuzco@terra.com.pe, or at the Binational Center (ICPNA), Av Tullumayo 125, Wanchac.

Immigration
Av Sol, Local Prefectural, p 1, T084-222741. Mon-Fri 0800-1300. Reported as not very helpful.

Internet

You can't walk for 2 mins in Cuzco without running into an internet café, and new places are opening all the time. Most have similar rates, around US$0.50 per hr.

Language classes

Academia Latinoamericana de Español
, Av El Sol 580, T084-243364, www.latinoschools.com. The same company also has schools in Ecuador (Quito) and in Bolivia (Sucre). They can arrange courses that include any combination of these locations using identical teaching methods and materials. Professionally run with experienced staff. Many activities per week, including dance lessons and excursions to sites of historical and cultural interest. Good homestays. Private classes US$170 for 20 hrs, groups, with a maximum of 4 students US$125, again for 20 hrs.
Acupari
, San Agustín 307, T084-242970, www.acupari.com. The German-Peruvian Cultural Association offers Spanish classes.
Amauta Spanish School
, C Cuecia 480, T084-241422/262345, www.amauta spanish.com. Spanish classes, 1-to-1 or in small groups, also volunteer work, Quechua classes and workshops on Peruvian culture, US$10.50 per hr 1-to-1, but cheaper and possibly better value for group tuition (2-6 people), US$98 for 20 hrs. They have pleasant accommodation on site, as well as a free internet café for students, and can arrange excursions and can help find voluntary work. They also have a school in Urubamba and can arrange courses in the Manu rainforest, in conjunction with
Pantiacolla Tours SRL
.
Amigos Spanish School
, Zaguán del Cielo B-23, T084-242292, www.spanishcusco.com. Certified, experienced teachers, friendly atmosphere. All profits support a foundation for disadvantaged children. Private lessons for US$8 per hr, US$108 for 20 hrs of classes in a small group. Comfortable homestays and free activities available, including a 'real city tour' through Cuzco's poor areas.
Cusco Spanish School
, Garcilaso 265, oficina 6 (2nd floor), T084-226928, www.cuscospanishschool.com. US$175 for 20 hrs private classes, cheaper in groups. School offers homestays, optional activities including dance and music classes, cookery courses, ceramics, Quechua, hiking and volunteer programmes. They also offer courses on an hacienda at Cusipata in the Vilcanota valley, east of Cuzco.
Excel
, Cruz Verde 336, T084-235298, www.excel-spanish language programs-peru.org. Very professional, US$7 per hr for private 1-to-1 lessons. US$229 for 20 hrs with 2 people, or US$277 with homestay, one-on-one for 20 hrs.
Fairplay Spanish School
, Choquechaca 188, No 5 (same building as the South American Explorers), T084-984 789252, www.fairplay-peru.org. This relatively new NGO teaches Peruvians who wouldn't normally have the opportunity (Peruvian single mothers, for example) to become Spanish teachers themselves over several months of training. The agency then acts as an agent, allowing these same teachers to find work with visiting students. Classes with these teachers cost US$4.50 or US$6 per hr, of which 33% is reinvested in the NGO, the rest going direct to the teachers. Can also arrange volunteer work and homestay programmes.
La Casona de la Esquina
, Purgatorio 395, corner with Huaynapata, T084-235830, www.spanish lessons.com.pe. US$5 per hr for one-to-one classes. Recommended.
Mundo
Verde
, C Nueva Alta 432-A, T084-221287, www.mundoverdespanish.com. Spanish lessons with the option to study in the rain- forest and the possibility of working on environmental and social projects while studying. Some of your money goes towards
developing sustainable farming practices in the area. US$250 for 20 hrs tuition with homestay.
San Blas Spanish School
, Tandapata 688, T084-247898, www.spanish schoolperu.com.
Groups, with 4 clients maximum, US$90 for 20 hrs tuition (US$130 1-to-1).

Laundry

There are several cheap laundries on Procuradores, Suecia and Tecseccocha.
Adonai
, Choquechaca 216-A, San Blas. Good hole-in-the-wall laundry, US$0.60 per kg for wash and dry, friendly and usually reliable, small book exchange.
Dana's Laundry
, Nueva Baja y Unión. US$2.10 per kg, takes about 6 hrs.
Lavandería
, Saphi 578. 0800-2000 Mon-Sat, 0800-1300 Sun. Good, fast service, US$1 per kg. String markers will be attached to clothes if they have no label.
Lavandería Louis
, Choquechaca 264, San Blas. US$0.85 per kg, fresh, clean, good value.
Lavandería T'aqsana Wasi
, Santa Catalina Ancha 345. Same-day service, they also iron clothes, US$2 per kg, good service, speak English, German, Italian and French, Mon-Fri 0900-2030, Sat 0900-1900.
Splendid Laundry Service
, Carmen Alto 195. Very good, US$0.75 per kg,
laundry sometimes available after only 3-4 hrs.

Massage and therapies

Casa de la serenidad
, Pumacurco 636, T084-233670, www.shamanspirit.net. A shamanic therapy centre run by a Swiss-American healer and Reiki Master who uses medicinal 'power' plants. It also has bed and breakfast and has received very good reports.
Healing Hands
, based at Loki Hostel, faeryamanita@ hotmail.com. Angela is a Reiki, Shiatsu and CranioSacral Therapist. Very relaxing and recommended.

Medical services

Clínica Panamericana
, Urb Larapa Grande C-17, T084-270000, T984-785303 (mob), www.cuscohealth.com. 24-hr emergency and medical attention.
Clínica Pardo
, Av de la Cultura 710, T084-240387, www.clinicapardo.com. 24-hr emergency and hospitalization/medical attention, international department, trained bilingual personnel, handles complete medical assistance coverage with international insurance companies, free ambulance service, visit to hotel, discount in pharmacy, dental service, X-rays, laboratory, full medical specialization. The most highly recommeded clinic in Cuzco.
Hospital Regional
, Av de la Cultura, T084-227661, emergencies T084-223691.
Dr Ilya Gomon
, Av de la Cultura, Edif Santa Fe, oficina 207, T084-965 1906 (mob). Canadian chiropractor, good, reasonable prices, available for hotel or home visits.
Dr Gilbert Espejo
and
Dr Boris Espejo Muñoz
, both in the Centro Comercial Cusco, oficina 7, T084-228074 and T084- 231918 respectively. If you need a yellow fever vaccination (for the jungle lowlands, or for travel to Bolivia or Brazil where it is required), it is available at the paediatric department of the
Hospital Antonio Lorena
, Plazoleta Belén 1358, T084-226511, from 0830 on Mon, Wed and Fri; they are free and include the international vaccination certificate.
Dentists
:
Dr Eduardo Franco
, Av de la Cultura, Edif Santa Fe, oficina 310, T084-242207, T984-650179 (mob). 24-hr.

Post

Central office
, Av Sol at the bottom end of block 5, T084-225232. Mon-Sat 0730-2000, 0800-1400 Sun and holidays. Poste restante is free and helpful. Sending packages from Cuzco is not cheap.
DHL
, Av Sol 627, T084-244167. For sending packages or money overseas.

Telephone

There are independent phone
offices in the centre.
Telefónica
, Av del Sol 386, T084-241111. For telephone and fax, Mon-Sat 0700-2300, 0700-1200 Sun and holidays.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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