Huaraz and around listings

Hotels are plentiful (there are many more than those listed below) but fill up rapidly during the high season (May-Sep), especially during public holidays and special events (such as the

in Jun) when prices rise. Lodging in private homes is common during these periods.

, Pedro Cochachín 357, some way southeast from the centre (take a taxi after dark), T043-421662, www.hotel andino.com. Good international standard hotel with restaurant, free internet for guests, lift, safe parking, Swiss-run, and friendly. 2nd-, 3rd- and 4th-floor rooms have balconies and views of Huascarán. Newly built section has suites and an apartment, which boast personal saunas, among other facilities. Not surprisingly these are more expensive. Breakfast and taxes included.

, Jr Corongo 145, across the bridge, several blocks north of the river, T043-427018, www.pastorurihotel.com. New 3-star business-style hotel with well-equipped, internet-enabled, spacious rooms and big bathrooms. Suites have jacuzzis into the bargain. Breakfast, taxes and use of the top-floor gym are included.

, Francisco de Zela 210, on Centenario across the river, T043-421501, www.huarazhotel.com. Lovely old hacienda, family-run, fabulous garden, safe car parking, gym and well-equipped rooms with cable TV, comfortable beds and internet access. All bathrooms have tub and jacuzzi.

, Jr Italia 1124, T043-426960, www.sansebastianhuaraz.com. Elegant, modern hotel, rooms and junior suites, more expensive with mountain views, comfortable beds with duvets, parking available, internet connection in rooms. Very helpful, buffet breakfast included.

, Alejandro Maguiña 1467, T043-429709, www.steelguest.com. Comfortable guesthouse, price includes breakfast. Excellent view of the major peaks from the roof terrace, although its location (close to

) entails a fair walk from the centre; a taxi is recommended late at night. Small but comfortable rooms with TV and private bathroom, a sauna, massages, kitchen for guests, internet access, good value. Table football, a full-size pool table, darts, plus a TV lounge with DVDs and a book exchange.

, Av Centenario 184, T043-4211632, www.hostalalfredo.com. Variety of rooms and suites, TV, phones, room service 0600-2400, jacuzzi, bath with hydro massage, internet, tourist information, English and German spoken. Cafeteria with local and international food.

, Jr Federico Sal y Rosas 820, T043-426035, h_apuwasi@yahoo.com. Modern but simple hotel. All rooms have TV, private bathrooms and very comfortable beds. Standard price includes a basic breakfast. Discounts for longer stays.

, J Argüedas 1242, T043-422529, www.olazas.com. Run by Tito Olaza and recently upgraded with minimalist but very comfortable rooms with Wi-Fi internet access. Safe, stylish, luggage stored, nice terrace with views, breakfast included. Pickup from bus station with room reservation. Downstairs there's an office for

, run by Julio Olaza. They have a second office closer to the centre at Jr Lúcar y Torre 530.

, Jr Amadeo Figueroa 1267, T043-421196, www.lodging soledad.com. Price includes breakfast and bath, some hard beds, hot water, kitchen, use of internet, family-run and friendly, secure, trekking information given. Higher prices in high season.

, José de la Mar 620, T043-426384, http://monteblancohotel.com. Very comfortable, good hot showers, cable TV, helpful staff (no English spoken), great value, restaurant attached for breakfast, roof terrace with superb views.

, Pasaje Valenzuela 837, T043-421831, www.residencialng.com. Breakfast included, various room sizes, hot water, TV, good value, helpful, restaurant, laundry, Wi-Fi, luggage storage.

, Jr Figueroa 1257, T043-424200, www.churup.com. Rooms or dormitory, optional breakfast, hot water, nice fire in the attractive sitting room, roof terrace, great views, internet (including wireless) access in the private rooms, cafeteria, use of kitchen, roof terrace, lots of information, luggage store, laundry, book exchange, English spoken, Spanish classes, extremely helpful. Recommended.

, Jr Ladislao Meza 112, San Francisco, at east end of Alameda Grau, T043-428896, www.hostalalpeshuaraz.com. All rooms with private bathroom, hot showers (ask owner to switch them on), breakfast available, TV, laundry service.

, Av Gamarra 815, T043-422205, solandperu@yahoo.com. No sign, look for

travel agency in same building (www.solandino.com). Kitchen and laundry facilities, small garden, hot water. Owners Max and Saul Angeles are official guides, helpful with trekking and climbing, equipment hire.

, Parque Santa Rosa 928, 10 mins from centre, T043-423150, www.huarazbenkawasi.com. Cheaper without breakfast, 15 rooms for 2, 3, 4 or dorm, hot water, use of kitchen and laundry, games room, pickup from bus station. Owner Benjamín Morales also has

,

bar and restaurant,

tour operator (Plazuela Belén 1035, www.infiniteadventuresperu. com) and a lodge at Playa Tortugas near Casma (arranges 5-hr downhill biking there from Huaraz).

, Bolognesi 121, T/F043- 422692, www.edwardsinn.com. Cheaper without bath, clean, nice garden, laundry, friendly, breakfast extra, insist on proper rates in low season, popular. Edward speaks English and has 30 years' experience trekking, climbing and guiding in the area. He also rents gear.

, J Arguedas 1263, T043-421694, www.lacasadezarela.com. With bath, hot water, breakfast available, use of kitchen, laundry facilities, owner Zarela, who speaks English, organizes groups and is very knowledgeable, stores luggage, nice terrace.

, Jr Daniel Villayzán 268, T043-425055, www.hatunwasi.net. Family-run, next door to

. Clean, spacious rooms, all with private bathroom and hot water, cafeteria, laundry, luggage store. Has a pleasant roof terrace, ideal for breakfasts, with great views of the Cordillera.

, Jr Figueroa 1135, T043-422949. Secure, hot shower, breakfast available, good for climbers, luggage store.

, Lúcar y Torre 538, T043- 426367, familiameza_lodging@hotmail.com. Shared bath, hot water, use of kitchen and laundry facilities, terrace with view, popular with trekkers, mountaineers and bikers.

, San Martín 635, T043- 422371. Cheaper without bathroom, friendly, clean, safe, hot water, laundry, good value.

, Parque Ginebra 632, opposite the Casa de Guías, T043-421567, hostal_gyula_inn@yahoo.com. With bathroom, hot water, cheaper in dorm-style rooms, very friendly and helpful, information on tours, stores luggage. Noisy at weekends.

, Jr Mcal A Cáceres 411, T043-426060, www.geocities.com/hostal _quintana/. Cheaper without bathroom, hot shower, laundry facilities, clean, basic, stores luggage, breakfast extra, friendly, English and Italian spoken, popular with trekkers. Recommended.

, Lúcar y Torre 468A, T043-422534. With bathroom, cheaper without, hot water at night, spotless, money exchange, tours, café/restaurant.

, Jr Daniel Villayzan 276, T043-425505, www.josplacehuaraz.com. Safe, hot water at night, kitchen facilities, mountain views, garden, terrace,

warm atmosphere, English owner Jo and his Peruvian partner Vickie are good sources of information with plenty of advice on trekking and climbing in the area. Popular meeting point for climbers. British Sunday papers. Highly recommended.

, Jr Sucre 1224, T043-423428. Shared and double rooms, hot showers, cable TV, small breakfast included, laundry, kitchen, computer, DVD, very friendly, popular, safe for parking, bikes and luggage, English and French spoken, very good value.

, Urb Avitentel Mz D - Lt 1, T043-422588. Includes breakfast, 10-min walk from centre, free pickup from bus station (phone ahead), hot water, kitchen facilities, tourist information, laundry, helpful. Recommended, but compare tours offered here with those of established operators.

, Sucre 1240, T043- 422264, filibertor@terra.com.pe. Private house, with bath, kitchen, laundry facilities, friendly, clean, hot water, English, French and German spoken. Mountaineering guide, Filiberto Rurush, can be contacted here.

, La Mar 624, T/F043- 422720, cvmonical@hotmail.com. Bathroom, hot water, cheap breakfast next door, good beds, helpful, cheaper in low season.

, Jr Sucre 1044, T043-424612, reservaseljacal@yahoo.es. With or without shower, hot water, nice family, use of kitchen, internet café, garden, luggage store, laundry, good value, popular.

, Sucre 1123, T043-428160, alojamaril@latinmail.com. Good views, modern, clean rooms with private or shared bath, dormitories, hot water, breakfast available, kitchen facilities, luggage store, knowledgeable, friendly owners.

, Av Raimondi 510, T043-421773, http://huaraz.com/ backpackers. Breakfast not included. Dorm beds or private room with bathroom. Spacious, hot showers, good views, very friendly, a real bargain.

, Jr Sucre 948. Hot water, meals, laundry, owner Jesús Rivera Lúcar is a mountain guide.

, Jr Julián de Morales 867, T043-428821, www.cayesh.net. Comfortable hostel with good location, efficient solar hot-water system, kitchen and TV lounge with over 250 DVDs, internet. Owner is an enthusiastic climber and happy to provide advice on potential routes in the Cordilleras.

, Alberto Gridilla 267, T043-422281, www.casajaimes.com. Friendly and cheap but noisy. 1 hr free internet use per day, laundry facilities and cheap laundry service, has maps and books of the region, equipment rental, use of kitchen, popular with Israelis.

, 28 de Julio 586, nr Plaza de Armas, T043-424171. With bath, clean, hot water, friendly, cafeteria serving good breakfasts. Avoid the rooms overlooking the street as there are 2 noisy

nearby.

, Mariano Melgar 623, Independencia, T043-423490, 15 mins' walk from Plaza de Armas (US$0.50 by taxi). Light, spacious rooms, hot water, safe, helpful.

, at

, Plaza Ginebra 28-g, T043-421811, casa_de _guias@hotmail.com. Member of the Peruvian Youth Hostel Association, 1 dormitory with 14 beds and another with 6 beds, hot water, with very good restaurant (0700-1100, 1700-2300), laundry, luggage store, the owner Sr López speaks English, French and German and is very helpful, he is the mountain guides administrator.

, Av Monterrey, 250 m downhill from the Monterrey baths, T043-424965, www.elpatio.com.pe. Classy hotel with lovely gardens and comfortable rooms, some with balconies; also four bungalows with fireplaces. Restaurant for breakfast and dinner, bar, friendly, colonial-style. Recommended.

, close to the Quebrada Cojup and the boundary of Huascarán National Park, T043-943789330, www.thelazydoginn.com. Eco-tourism lodge built with local materials, manpower and support. Actively involved in community projects. Beautifully designed in warm colours, each room with its own design. The lodge is constructed with adobe bricks and features water recycling systems and composting toilets. Great location gives access to several fabulous, little-visited mountain valleys. Friendly owners Wayne and Diana can organize horse-riding and hiking trips into the mountains. High altitude (3650 m) can be tricky if just arrived in Peru. Excellent home cooking on request. 4.5 km from Huaraz via Marian, 12 km via Wuillcahuain, a better road (US$10 by taxi).

, Av Monterrey, at the top of the hill in Monterrey, T/F043-427690, realhotelmonterrey @yahoo.com. Slightly run down but classic old spa, beautiful garden and use of pools, restaurant, bar. Good location for walking. There is a rock face behind the hotel that's used for climbing practice. Very good value.

, at 3712m, close to the border of Huascarán National Park, 15 km up the road to Pitec, address in town Jr Buenaventura Mendoza 821, T043- 943466219, www.thewayinn.com. Rooms in bungalows, dorm rooms and camping, breakfast included, other meals available. Many activities available, from paragliding to yoga classes and mountain biking.

, Jr Los Libertadores 106, close to

and the

, T043-425929. New friendly hotel with good-value, pleasant rooms, especially on 2nd floor.

For local dishes, such as

, go to C José Olaya at the weekend, where stalls are set up.

, Luzuriaga 422. Tasty crêpes, fish, quiche, spaghetti and good wine.

, Bolívar 981. Excellent

.

, J de la Mar 661. Open 1000-2300. Pizzería, also fondue and other Swiss dishes. Swiss owner is Victorinox representative, offering knives for sale and repair also climbing and trekking books to read, excellent postcards for sale.

, Luzuriaga 834. 1600-2300. Excellent pizzas, crêpes and pastries, good service. French owner Bruno Reviron also has a 4WD with driver for hire.

, Gamarra corner J de Morales. Authentic Thai cuisine, but tasty and with a wide range of dishes, as mild or spicy as you desire. There is a nice fireplace, too.

, J de Morales 823 and Plaza de Armas 2nd floor, T/F043-426249. Good food, owner speaks English, French and German. Plaza branch has a nice panoramic view of the plaza. Very wide range of dishes including breakfasts, meats, pastas and curries - even Peruvian dishes if you look hard enough.

, Parque Ginebra, just up from the Casa de Guías, T043-396085. Run by a British biker. Great curries, Indian, Thai, or otherwise and filling burritos, chillies - the works. In fact anyone who appreciates a bit of spice will enjoy this snug, very popular restaurant. Good pizza and the desserts are mouth-watering as well. Imported beers overpriced. Book exchange.

, Parque del Periodista, T043-424617. Good atmosphere, fine grilled meats and nice location overlooking the Parque del Periodista.

, Je de Morales 757. Breakfast, good value at lunchtime (including vegetarian), coffee and snacks, popular for good food and service, also has video bar.

, J de la Mar 562. Vegetarian, also meat and pasta dishes, good soups, excellent fruit salads and smoothies, breakfasts. Recommended.

, San Martín 687. Bar, café and restaurant, concerts, art gallery, garden, nice place to relax, good toilets, pool table and table tennis, information on treks, Swiss-owned. Recommended.

, Raymondi 624, good pizza, chicken, meat, warm atmosphere.

, J de Morales 632. Pizzería, very popular with gringos.

, La Mar beside laundry of same name. Pizza is excellent, as is their dessert specialty

, wood oven, pleasant decor and atmosphere, attentive service. Recommended.

, Sucre, on corner of Plaza de Armas. Good for pizzas, Italian dishes, sandwiches, breakfasts, nice atmosphere, closed 1200-1800 and Sunday.

, Luzuriaga 672, upstairs. Restaurant and pizzería specializing in vegetarian and Italian food.

, Luzuriaga 645, upstairs. Open Mon-Sat 0900-1500, 1800-2400, Sun 1800-2200. Large, tasty portions,

menú

US$1.15 and a wide variety of other Peruvian-Chinese dishes.

, Parque Ginebra, off Luzuriaga cuadra 6. Opens 0700 for breakfast, serves good lunches and dinners, very busy, try the fillet mignon.

, J de Morales 767. Clean, friendly, good breakfast and set meals (high season only), also vegetarian, snacks and à la carte, very good, decorated with nice regional paintings.

, Morales 535. Popular with gringos, serves an excellent

and very good trout, also serves breakfast.

, Lúcar y Torre 538, T043-421203, cafeandino@hotmail.com. American-run café and book exchange, great coffee and food, including very good curries, extensive lending library in many languages, a nice place to relax and write postcards, great atmosphere, and a good meeting place. The café's owner, Chris, organizes treks in cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash, lots of advice offered.

, 28 de Julio 592. Good breakfast for US$1.30-2, great chocolate cake and apple pie.

, Sucre 806. Cheap café just above the Plaza. Serves excellent yogurt and honey drinks, among other treats.

, Jr 28 de Julio 562, T043-428354, http://huaylas.com/california cafe/california.htm. A rival to

in all but the view, California offers perhaps the best breakfast in town, great coffee and chocolate cake that can only be described as dangerous! There's also a book exchange, library, games and some comfortable sofas into the bargain.

, J de Morales 756, between Luzuriaga y Bolívar. Open 0730-2300. Good breakfasts and good-value lunchtime menu, keen to promote Peruvian cuisine with Western standards of presentation. Good fish, excellent

, nice garden.

, Juan de La Cruz Romero 523 near market. Excellent bread and sweets.

, Av Luzuriaga 928, T043-426260. Bakery and café, pleasant atmosphere, lots of cakes and

, sausage rolls etc. Good for a snack.

, José de la Mar y Luzuriaga. Great ice cream.

There are several country-style restaurants in Monterrey that are popular with locals and busy at weekends, serving trout,

and other regional specialities. There are several cheaper restaurants and stands along Av Monterrey.

, Monterrey, along the Huaraz- Caraz road at Km 6.5. Serves very good food, eg chicken and barley stew, and

.

, José de la Mar 2nd floor, just above Makondo's. Funky, popular bar with good range of tunes, snacks and games. Owner is Lucho, physically tall and big on personality ... with a hat like Indiana Jones.

, Parque Ginebra, bar-disco.

, Jr Sucre 959, next of the agency of the same name. Good pizzas, good atmosphere, and, on occasion, a good DJ or 2.

, Luzuriaga 1276, disco tavern.

, José de la Mar opposite Cruz del Sur bus station. Bar, restaurant and nightclub, safe, popular.

, Sucre just off Plaza de Armas, in a converted cinema, reasonable prices.

, José de la Mar 776, daily 1000-1600 and 2000 till late. Folk music and disco. Full-on, non-stop dance mecca. Very popular with both locals and gringos, although the music can lack variety.

, J de Morales 753. Popular bar with snacks and football tables.

, Jr Gabino Uribe near Luzuriaga. Upstairs bar, popular with gringos, soft music. 1900-0200.

, Luzuriaga 1036, T043-9557343. American-run café and movie theatre, big screen, comfortable sofas, chocolate chip cookies and falafel sandwiches, US$1.20. Movies range from 1960s' classics to cutting-edge Latin American, plus occasional showings of

, the film set and partially shot in the Huayhuash.

(Holy Week) is widely celebrated, colourful and lively.

, the town's patron saint's day, marks the start of a week of parades, dancing, music, fireworks and much drinking.

is an international climbing and skiing week.

and

are celebrated throughout the region. On the eve of San Juan fires are lit throughout the valley to burn the chaff from the harvest. The following day the valley is thick with smoke.

, www.inkafest.com, is an annual film festival with competitions, workshops, movies, exhibitions, speakers and tours, organized by climbers and documentary makers.

, on Parque Ginebra, T043-422966, www.tatoo.ws. Good shop for climbing and outdoor clothes and gear, locally produced and international brands.

, Luzuriaga 401 corner Raymondi. A well-stocked supermarket with a good selection of items, but expensive.

, Jr San Martín, ½ block from Morales. Local cheese and

.

, Jr J Arguedas 1246, near La Soledad church, T043-422951, olaza@qnet.com.pe. Open 0800-2200. Run by Lucho, Mauro and Beto Olaza, and recommended for hand-printed T-shirts and sweatshirts with unusual motifs.

, Sr Enrique Salazar Salas, Jr San Martín 574. Handmade cowboy-style boots can be made to fit in 3 days for about US$80.

Huaraz is overflowing with agencies and quality varies. Try to get a recommendation from someone who has recently returned from a tour, climb or trek. Avoid unlicensed guides at hotels. All agencies run conventional tours to

(US$12 per person, very long day) and

(8-10 hrs, US$14 per person), entry tickets not included. Many hire equipment and also offer climbing and trekking tours as well as ski instruction.

The

rents equipment and sells dried food. The following agencies are also recommended for hiring gear:

;

;

,

;

. Also try

, T043-427097, www.sladventure school.com;

, Parque Ginebra 30-B, T043-426386, www.trekking peru.com, and

, Jr Mcal Cáceres 421, T043-426060, mount climb@yahoo.com.

, T043-423813. Contact him well in advance for half-day trips (enquire at

restaurant, page). He is a master

rider.

, at Yungar (about 20 km on the Carhuaz road), T043-421267, 94367 9836 (mob). Swiss run. Ask for José Flores or Gustavo Soto. US$4.50 per hr on nice horses; good 4-hr trip in the Cordillera Negra with fabulous views.

, www.trekkingperu.com, offer tours of up to 26 days in the Cordillera Blanca. Camping gear is needed. Local tour and trekking agencies can supply bikes, guides and full backup, including driving you up some of the steepest bits if your leg muscles can't cope.

, Lúcar y Torre 530, T043-424259, www.chakinaniperu.com. Contact Julio Olaza. US$20 for 5 hrs, various routes. Julio speaks excellent English and also runs a book exchange, sells topo maps and climbing books. Recommended for its two-wheeled exploits and excellent standard of equipment.

For further information, visit the

. The guides listed below are not necessarily members of AGMP but they are recommended for their mountaineering expertise.

, through

. Speaks English, Spanish and Euskerra.

, Jr San Martín 1004, T043-424888. The only Peruvian to have climbed Everest.

, La Cima Logistics, T043-421203, cafeandino@hotmail.com. Organizes treks in the Huayhuash. Chris is the owner of

, so it's usually easy to track him down, plus he's very friendly and helpful.

,

, Sucre 1240, T043-422264. Speaks English, Spanish and Quechua.

, T043-422825, speaks good English and some German, also a climbing guide.

,

(Sifuentes Expeditions), Jr Huaylas 139, T043-426529, www.siexperu.com. Trekking, rock climbing and less adventurous tours.

, T043-421694 (or through

or

). Speaks English and French, AGMP certified.

, T043-422205 (

travel agency), speak some English, know the Huayhuash well.

,

, T043-427097, www.skyline-adventures.com. American Outward Bound instructor, very knowledgeable, lots of information, works with highly qualified and experienced staff.

, Jr Carlos Valenzuela 911, T043-422569, is Belgian and speaks Dutch, French, German and reasonable English, runs trekking and conventional tours and is knowledgeable about the Chavín culture.

, at

, T043-969 2395, trekking guides with knowledge of the entire region.

, T043-961 3058/94363 5920 (mob, between 1800-2000), or contact through

. Multilingual rafting guide and certified kayak instructor. Also a well- regarded climbing and hiking guide.

Trekking tours cost US$40-70 per person per day; climbing US$90-140 per person per day. Prices vary a great deal. Many companies close in low season. Ask tour agencies, independent guides and the

about rock-climbing courses at Monterrey (behind

), Chancos, Recuay and Huanchac (30 mins' walk from Huaraz), and about ice climbing on Vallanaraju (for example). Jatun Machay in the Cordillera Negra is another fabulous spot for rock climbing and bouldering, be it at beginner level or if you are an experienced climber looking for a serious challenge.

, Av Gamarra 699, T043-423339, www.activeperu.com. Friendly agency offering the classic treks, climbing, plus tours to Chavín and Llanganuco, among others.

, Jr San Martín 622, p 3, T043-425555, www.andeankingdom.com. Free information, maps, rock and ice climbing, including multi-day courses, treks, equipment rental, very helpful, English spoken, can be very busy. The company has a Refugio de Montaña,

(

), near the excellent rock-climbing site of Hatun Machay in the Cordillera Negra, with kitchen facilities and heating, transport arranged.

, Malecón Sur 310 (Río Quillkay), T043-428214, www.andescamp.com. Popular, especially with budget travellers. Only qualified guides used for climbing trips. Variety of treks, from the 9-12 day Huayhuash circuit to Olleros to Chavín over 3 days, plus rafting, paragliding and more.

, Jr José de Sucre No.959, T043-426271, www.chacraraju expedition.com. Tours and equipment for hire, plus a small climbing wall and a 24-hr

with fireplace and music.

, run by the Mejía Romero family, T043-424352. Experienced, quality climbing and trekking trips, good guides and equipment.

, Parque del Periodista, T043-425355, www.galaxia-expeditions.com. Reputable agency with the usual range of tours, climbing, hiking, biking, equipment hire, etc.

, Jr Figueroa 1257 (below

), T043-422523, peru huascaran@yahoo.com. Contact Pablo Tinoco Depaz, one of the brothers who run the company. 4-day Santa Cruz trip recommended. Good food and equipment, professional and friendly service, free loan of waterproofs and

on last evening. Recommended.

, José de la Mar 579 y Luzuriaga, p 2, T043-427868, www.kallpaexpeditions.com. Organizes treks, rents gear, arranges

and mules, very helpful.

, Parque Ginebra 30-B, T043-426386, www.trekkingperu.com. Run by veteran mountain guide Selio Villón, German, French and English spoken.

, Luzuriaga 646, upstairs, T043-421124, F426976. Good trekking and climbing information, advice and maps, ice and rock climbing courses (at Monterrey), tours to Laguna Churup and the 'spectacular' Luna Llena tour; they also hire out mountain bikes, run ski instruction and trips, and river rafting. Helpful, conscientious guides. Next door in the Pizzería is a climbing wall, good maps, videos and slide shows. For new routes and maps contact Porfirio Cacha Macedo, 'Pocho', at

or at Jr Corongo 307, T043-423930.

, José Olaya 532, T043-421864, www.peruvianandes.com. Run by Hisao and Eli Morales, with an agency in New Zealand, use professional, registered mountain and trekking guides. All equipment and services for treks of 3-15 days, climbing technical and non-technical peaks, or just day walks. Vegetarians catered for.

, Jr Sucre 1214, www.amazing peru.com. UK-managed tours with knowledgeable guides.

, Luzuriaga 502, T043-421578, www.chavintours.com.pe. Local tours, long-standing national agency.

, Luzuriaga 501, T043-421145, www.pablotours.com. Local tours, with many years of operation.

Many bus companies have offices selling tickets in the centre, but buses leave from the edge of the centre. Several buses and minivans run daily, 0500-2000, to

, 1¼ hrs, US$1.50, stopping at all the places in between. They depart from the parking area under the bridge on Fitzcarrald and from the open space beside the bridge on the other side of the river (beware of thieves here).

To

, 110 km, 2 hrs (sit on left side for best views), US$3. Service provided by

, Mcal Cáceres 338, 0830, 1430, 2030, and by

, Jr Mcal Cáceres 265, T043-426632, daily 0800, 1400 and 2000, US$3.30. Both have buses that go on to

, 4 hrs on paved but pot-holed road, US$4.10, and

, 8 hrs, US$7.

To

(US$3.75) and

(US$5.75), at 0700 with

, Caraz 607.

, Av Raymondi 827, T043-221225, daily at 0630 and 1400 to Chacas, US$6, San Luis, US$6.70 and Yauya, US$8.30.

, Raymondi 821, T043-425371, runs to Chacas daily (0615, 1400, US$6),

and

(0630, best, and 1900, US$8.25).

, same office as Yungay Express, T043-427362, daily 0630 to

, US$0.75,

, US$3.45,

, US$3.45,

, US$5.20 and

, US$6 (8 hrs). This route also served by

, daily 0630, 8hrs to Pomabamba, US$6. To

, also

, Tue and Fri 0800;

, 1 a week, 8 hrs, US$7.

to

, US$0.45,

and

, US$0.55, leave daily 0500-2100, from Gridilla, just off Tarapacá (Terminal Terrestre Transportistas Zona Sur).

To

for the Cordillera Huayhuash, 120 km, 3½ hrs:

, at Bolognesi 216, T043-422887, at 0500 and 1330, and

, on Tarapacá behind the market.

To

(Huánuco), along a paved road through Conococha, Chiquián and Aquia to Huansala, then good dirt road to Huallanca and

(the road is being paved). Departs Huaraz twice daily (1 at 1330), 4½ hrs, US$4.80, with

, Bolognesi 216, T043-422887. Frequent daily service from Huallanca to Huánuco.

To

, 420 km, 7-8 hrs, US$7-15. The road is in good condition. There is a large selection of buses to Lima, both ordinary service and luxury coaches, with departures throughout the day. Many of the companies have their offices along Av Raymondi and on Jr Lúcar y Torre. Some recommended companies are:

, Bolívar Mz C Lote 12 , T043-728726;

, Tarapacá esq Gridilla, T043-421353;

, Morales opposite Lúcar y Torre;

, Av Confraternidad Oeste 451, T043-422555;

, Fitzcarrald 216, T043-421282, terminal at Bolívar 407.

To

via the Callán pass and Pariacoto, 150 km, 7 hrs, US$6, the lower section of the road is very poor, landslides and closures are common (sit on the left for best views, as long as you don't mind precipices):

, Fitzcarrald 261, T043-427507 (terminal at Caraz 820), daily 0800, 1000 and 1300;

, Raymondi 930, T043-424377, 3 a day, continuing to

, 185 km. To

via Caraz and the Cañón del Pato (sit on the right for the most exciting views), with

, daily, US$7, 10 hrs. To Chimbote via Huallanca, daily 0715, US$8.30 (also picks up passengers from Caraz), via Casma, daily 1030, US$6.75, via Pativilca, daily 2100, 2200, US$8.30. Other companies go to

, 7 hrs, via

, 160 km, 4 hrs, and most continue to

, 8-9 hrs, US$10; all buses depart at night:

, J de Morales 650, T043-426417;

, Simón Bolívar 450, T043-726666;

and

, addresses above.

, on the Plaza de Armas, closed 1300-1630, same services as elsewhere in Peru, but there may be very long queues for cash advances on Visa, 2 ATMs (Visa).

, on Plaza de Armas.

, across the street from Interbank, good rates for US$, but poor for other currencies. There are several other

and many street changers (be careful) on Luzuriaga.

Ubiquitous, US$0.30 per hr. Cafés usually offer video phones, scanning, CD burning and printing services. Since equipment is constantly changing it is best to find your own favourite spot; you should have plenty of choice. Phonecalls to Europe or North America are sometimes possible from US$0.15 per min.

, La Mar 674. US$1.20 per kg, special machine for down garments and sleeping bags, French run. Recommended.

, on the plaza on Mcal Cáceres, next to Galaxia Mountain Shop.

, Bolívar 711, US$2 per kg, also at the

.

at JM Expediciones, between Luzuriaga and Plaza Ginebra.

, Jr Bolívar 617, next-day service, US$1 per kg.

is on Luzuriaga 702, daily 0800-2000.

, Sucre y Bolívar, corner of Plaza de Armas. National and international phone and fax, daily 0700-2300. Private calling centres along Luzuriaga. Many coin phones.