South Caribbean listings

, head inland on the challenging road at Bananito, T2253-8118, www.selvabananito. com. A family-run rainforest lodge that is probably winner of the 'Most Difficult Lodge to Reach' award, Selva Bananito is beautifully remote, on the border of La Amistad Biosphere Reserve. It's also ecologically very considerate. More than a holiday stop, it's a place for body, mind and soul. 11 exquisite cabins are made from earthquake-salvaged hardwoods. Tiled bathrooms with solar heated water, lead from terracotta-tiled rooms with a balcony complete with hammock, opening onto spectacular views of the mountains. Without electricity, the evenings are lit by candles and the days start with the sun and the dawn chorus from the surrounding rainforest. Meals cater for vegetarians and non-vegetarians, taking influences from the highlands and the Caribbean. Beyond the tree-hugging calmness, you can also enjoy some serious activities if you're up to it: tree climbing and rappelling, mountain biking, hiking, waterfall swimming, horse riding, or the more sedate pleasures of birdwatching. Getting here can be amusing and involves crossing 4 rivers - 4WD is essential, but Selva Bananito will pick you up or provide a map if you want to drive yourself.

, a few kilometres north of Penshurst, T2750-0775, www.ogphoto.com/ aviarios. 6 spacious rooms and suites, with private bath and hot water, with breakfast included. Beyond the comfortable lodging Aviarios has become the main sloth rescue centre in the country. Buttercup is the first among equals of a cherished family of 2- and 3-toed sloths that turn up through various tales of misadventure to be nursed back to health and then, with a bit of luck, returned to the wild. Judith and Louis are passionate about sloths, which are just crying out for serious research. Beyond getting up close and personal with one of the deadly sins, the 60-ha island delta of the Estrella River has created a tropical paradise alive with otters, monkeys, caiman, poison-dart frogs and butterflies. The bird species list has topped 318. A 3½-hr tour of the Wildlife Sanctuary is US$30 and worth every cent. There's a volunteer programme as well - contact Aviarios for details.

Hotels and lodges, especially those out of town,

, T2755-0326, www.lacasadelasfloreshotel.com. Centrally located, this Italian-run hotel is new, modern and very clean. However, the black and white minimalism is quite harsh in the bedrooms.

, T2755-0031, www.alby lodge.com. Austrian-run with 4 bungalows, styled in a cosy Alpine lodge-meets-thatched Caribbean

cabaña

effect. In a well tended tropical garden, all come with mosquito nets, hot water, and private terrace with a table, chairs and hammock, perfect for lying back listening to the howler monkeys in the surrounding canopy.

, down the left fork, T2755-0119, www.bungalowsache.com. Very highly polished wooden cabins neighbouring the national park, with mosquito nets, private hot water bath, fridge, coffee maker and hammocks. Exceptionally clean and pleasant in a great location, one cabin has wheelchair access.

, right on the border of the national park at the southern end of town, T2755-0007, www.hotelkellycreek.com. 4 big rooms in an old plantation-style wooden house complete with broad eves and shaded veranda. Decorated with colourful textiles, the bathrooms are spacious with lots of light, and the ceiling fan and louvred windows are perfect for getting a sea breeze moving through. You can also see caiman and alligators in the neighbouring creek.

, T2755-0392. 9 cabins of varying specs, 2 with fully equipped kitchen at a bargain price; all have private bath and most have hot water. Very friendly local owners intending to add internet facilities and breakfasts in the future.

, opposite Cabinas Palmar, T2755-0405, safari@racsa.co.cr. Presentable rooms with fan, cold water (hot water on the way - honest!). Friendly owner, clean and good value. They also have one larger, more expensive room with kitchen, and a block of cheap, very basic rooms around the corner, with shared bath.

, right on the coast, close to Miss Edith's, T2755-0081, www.cabinasarrecife.com. Rooms with private bath, hot water and ceiling fan could be a little bigger, but OK for the price. Mini pool, tiny bar and breakfast now served. A good, quiet spot with good views from the restaurant.

, T2755-0256, jenny@ racsa.co.cr. Canadian-owned

for singles, doubles and triples, in a quiet spot with sea views. Upstairs is more expensive, but roomier, with private terraces, worth the extra. Breakfast is served from the seaview terrace and they specialize in kayaking trips down the Río Sixaola.

, on the beach close to Jenny's, T2755-0027. A lively spot, with brightly decorated rooms, 2 of which come with kitchen, another is available for monthly rental. Rasta Spencer offers local guided tours, accepts credit cards and TCs. Internet use on site. You'll either love it or hate it.

, T2755-0327. Canadian Linda has designed and built the house herself and the 4 rooms she offers are cool, bright and inviting, with hot water showers behind simple screens, wall murals, and vases of flowers. Small communal kitchen in the garden.

, T2755-0244, www.cahuita nationalparkhotel.com. 14 rooms with just a bit too much plastic. Some rooms upstairs have good views, but the grudging friendliness with poor service ruins a good spot. The restaurant on the beach is just enough to compensate.

, T2755-0218. 24 rooms, with private bath, hot water and ceiling fan, laid out in a big garden. Nice bright rooms and an easy-come, easy-go atmosphere. Also have 2 suites with cable TV (

, facing the school, T2755-0246. Clean rooms, good value and with safe parking.

, close to Cabinas Safari. Colourful block of apartments, with a clearly, publicly stated love of Bob Marley, hot water and a communal kitchen.

, T2755-0068. Simple clean rooms, with hot water private bath, fridge and ceiling fans. Not much better than basic, but good for the price.

, very basic, but clean and private in a quiet location. Enquire at Sol y Mar for information.

, T2755-0237. 10 big rooms with ceiling fans and hot water, the ones upstairs have lots of light. Clean, friendly and family- run - good for the price.

, T2755-0192. 12 basic rooms owned by Carlos who permanently laments the absence of business. The rooms are basic but clean - enough said.

, T2755-0122. 3 very attractive bungalows with hot water private bath and mosquito nets. The bedroom is on an upper level, with a single sofa bed below. An idyllic pathway from the bungalow doors winds through the garden to the beach. Breakfast and dinner are also available in the stylish restaurant.

, T2755-0286. With a distinct Hansel and Gretel feel to the place, these 'little houses' are clean, safe and quiet, with

hot water, private bath, fans and some pleasant

personal touches. Breakfast is available, as is a laundry service, bike hire, even Spanish lessons. Quiet spot, good for families.

, opposite Cabinas Tito, T2755-0131, www.caribeluna.com. Offers a range of cabins in coloured houses that sleep couples and up to 8 people, in a very large quiet garden. Internet service also available; Catalan, Spanish, French and English spoken.

, T2755-0113, www.elencanto bedandbreakfast.com. 3 beautifully decorated cabins with choice textile hangings, an apartment and a 3-bedroom house in immaculate, well-tended gardens. You will be well taken care of with yoga and massage available in this serene environment. The open-air restaurant is in a Spanish-style villa with breakfast included in the price, and the owners are French.

, T2755-0515. 4 rooms and a small apartment with kitchen, sleeps 3, all with private bath, a lively bar and restaurant and very friendly owners.

, T2755-0053, www.brigittecahuita.com. 2 small cabins, 1 with kitchen, sleeping 2 and 3 respectively, but the place is more about providing excellent local information. There's also a good small restaurant for breakfast snacks. Arrange lots of tours on bikes and horses, and provide surf board and snorkel rental. There is also internet and laundry. Recommended.

, T2755-0110, nirvana99@ racsa.co.cr. 7 simple wooden cabins sleeping 2-4 people, some with shared bath, others with private bath, balcony and hammock. Pool in the garden.

, T2755-0033, www.tropical.ch. Looks can be deceptive, but deep within the undergrowth are some fine self-catering

, and a couple of simple, but well-equipped rooms. Seeing a couple of poison-dart frogs and agoutis running about like pet rabbits on leaving, the penny finally dropped - this is a tropical garden. They also have a small bar with pool table. Not so tropical, but worth mentioning.

, T2755-0005, www.cabinas-iguana.com. Swiss-owned with a selection of houses and rooms to rent, some with fully equipped kitchen and balcony. All very neat and tidy with a mosaic-tiled waterfall-fed pool and probably the best book swap in the country with every conceivable language on offer. Credit cards accepted. Very good value, recommended.

, opposite Brigitte's down a small path, T2755-0105. Offers 1 small and simple thatched cabin with private bath, mosquito nets and fan, in exceptionally wild jungle gardens. There's also a restaurant on site. A good spot.

, back on the main road, T2755-0261, right opposite the beach. An excellent surfers' budget choice.

. A place so laid back it's horizontal. 5 simple rooms, with a small patio. A sea-fed lagoon creates a natural swimming pool, and tables and hammocks are dotted round the rocky coastline and garden. Sounds good enough to make a reservation. However, Walter the owner is not going near that telecommunications stuff.

, T2755-0035, www.magellaninn.com. 6 comfortable carpeted rooms offer the most luxurious relaxation in Cahuita. The garden is filled with the perfume of bella dona by day, ylan ylan at night and there are plenty of birds. The unimposing pool is a mere 10,000 years old, courtesy of some fossils that have been uncovered. Recommended.

, T2755-0021, www.hotels.co.cr/hibiscus.html. A mini-resort with a handful of fully equipped cabins, a small pool, pool table and volleyball court. Popular with families.

, T2755-0057. 1 big and 1 small fully equipped house, each sleeping up to 4 people. Nothing fancy, but full of character and a quiet spot.

T2755-0261, opposite Centro Turístico Brigitte, with laundry, showers and toilets, and

, out of village close to Playa Negra. Camping is also possible in Cahuita National Park .

, T2224-1870, www.samasati.com. Filled with enough healthy options to send the caffeine addict packing, Samasati is a genuinely relaxing lodge perched on a hill overlooking

the Caribbean. It has 3 houses and 9 beautifully constructed hardwood bungalows with private bathrooms, all with balconies looking across to the ocean or to the rainforest. The real focus of the retreat is yoga, meditation, massage and other therapies given in the wonderful setting of the meditation hall - deep within the privacy of the rainforest. Price includes breakfast, lunch and dinner.

, at the south end of town, T2750-0256, www.cashewhilllodge.co.cr. Quiet and clean cabins in a great escape location, kitchen facilities available, a variety of options, perfect for families. Stunning mirador overlooking jungle and sea, absolutely lovely owners.

, T2750-0235, www.cabinaslosalmendros.com. Offer clean chalet-style rooms for pretty much every budget, and they accept credit cards and change cash.

, at the southern end of town, T2750-0281, www.cocolocolodge.de. 7 thatched cabins spread out in expansive garden. The cabins are well fitted out, comfortable and in a great spot.

, T2750-0015, www.cabinascasaverde.com. Comfortable rooms with hammocks, private bath, ornate cracked-tile showers in beautiful gardens, swimming pool and hot tub. Ask to see the frog gardens. All very pleasant and far too relaxing.

, T2750-0244, www.hotelguarana.com. 12 rooms all with private bath and hot water overlooking a small patio garden.

, T2750-0283, www.cabinas-tropical.com. Spotless rooms, with good mattresses, private bath and hot water. Pleasant gardens with a shaded

rancho

in the garden for relaxing, small bar/café. The German owner, Rolf Blancke, is a tropical biologist and runs tours. Recommended.

, T2750-0069. A very relaxed place set in beautiful gardens with coloured mosaic pathways. Some rooms have a private bath but some of the mattresses are a bit on the thin side. In the garden there are 2 cabins each with a couple of rooms, private terrace and hammocks. A perfect private space for couples and groups travelling together. Shared kitchen, on-site massage service.

, T2750-0003. Simple rooms in cabins with private bath, hot water and fans. Affiliated to the Youth Hostel Association. English spoken. Recommended. In front of the beach and next to Maritza bar that hosts live music on Sun nights.

, T2750-0002. Spotlessly clean Swiss-run hotel, with hot water and private bath. A quiet spot with plenty of shade, although lacking in character.

, T2750-0369, www.costarica guide.info/lossuenos.htm. A great little spot with just 4 rooms sleeping 2-3 people, shared bath and laundry facilities. Brightly painted with a couple of windows in each room. A good choice.

, T2750-0311. 4 rooms with private bath, cold water and ceiling fan. Credit cards accepted. Enquire at Café Stop opposite cabins.

, T2752-0292. 10 large clean rooms, with private bath, fan and a small terrace with a fine view of the parking lot. Most reliable bike rental in

town, and good restaurant upstairs.

. 9 rooms and dormitory for 8, friendly, locally owned, good for backpackers, with communal kitchen and lots of hammocks.

, T2750-0469. Budget rooms in a convenient, central location.

, about 200 m south of football field, from where it is signposted, take torch and rubber boots, T2750-0075. Small jungle lodge with 2 dormitories, kitchen available, American-run. Recommended.

, T2750-0620. The most popular backpackers'/surfers' spot in the centre of town. American owner Kurt, resident in Puerto Viejo for 18 years has created a mini-village of coloured cabins and rooms sleeping 1-5. Communal kitchen, surfing information, boards rented, bought and sold. Food available.

, in a back side road to the east of town, T2750-0298, tamandualodge@yahoo.com.

Tico

-owned with very basic rooms; shared kitchen and free laundry facilities for guests.

, T2750-0227, www.pizote lodge.com. 18 cabins and bungalows, many with kitchen. Nice gardens with a couple of pools. Good mid-range restaurant if you want to stop. A comfortable choice and close to town. Credit cards accepted.

, the first accommodation you come to heading west along the black sand beach (right opposite the beach, the bus will drop you off at the door if you ask), T2750-0690, www.kayasplace.com. Proudly constructed with an eye on conservation, they have used reclaimed wood throughout; the chunky beds are great, as are the wide lounge areas on the upper balcony.

, turning north on the road on the opposite side of the river to Puerto Viejo, T2750-0119, www.chimuribeach.com. 3 fully equipped bungalows in a wonderfully quiet setting 1.5 km from Puerto Viejo. A good place to check in and be left to your own devices. They have created basic rooms (and 1 dormitory) with thatched roofs that mimic an authentic indigenous village. Shared bath, breakfast included and communal kitchen.

, T2750-0413. Basic rooms with private bath and hot water.

, within easy walking distance of town, T2750-0232. 2 exceptionally smart apartments complete with jacuzzi and indoor Zen garden; perfect for those after inner calm and not on a budget.

, Playa Negra, T2750-2035, www.bananaazul.com, New accommodation offering neat and comfortable rooms with private bath as well as beach houses. Breakfast included.

, T2750-0614, www. lizardkingresort.com. 12 rooms sleeping 2-7, all with private bath, swimming pool, superb restaurant, also disco and bar - don't expect early nights.

, T2750-0800, jmmuntada@ mundivia.es. Run by a fantastic Catalan couple. They currently have 2 fully equipped bungalows, both including kitchen and a/c, in peaceful grounds and they plan on several more in the future. There's a pool and restaurant but still has a secluded, tropical atmosphere.

, T2750-0446, www.agapisite.com. All with private bath and some with kitchen and TV. A great spot overlooking the beach.

, T2750-0542. Clean, tidy rooms within walking distance of town, they offer breakfast and dinner for a little extra.

, back on the road to Manzanillo, T2750-0448. Has 3 cabins with private shower, 2 with kitchen.

, 10 mins' walk from town, T2750-0001. Simple rooms cooled by ceiling fans, hot water private bath, hammocks on the terrace and snorkelling gear and boogie boards for hire.

, T2750-0098, www.monte sol.net. A selection of rooms and cabins in very relaxed surroundings, with mosquito nets, terrace and hammocks that back on to a private garden, most with private bath, breakfast US$5. Credit cards accepted, German, English, Spanish and French spoken, internet access available.

, 500 m along road to Punta Uva, T2750-0103, www.escape caribeno.com. Well-furnished bungalows set in pleasant gardens sleeping 2-4. Very small and pretty tiled communal breakfast area, overlooking cascading flowers and exotic bird feeder.

, T2750-0014. In wild garden surroundings, clean rooms, hot water and shared kitchen.

, T2750-0425. Very basic rooms with private shower, pool table and communal kitchen.

, T2250-0617. 17 beds in dormitories, nice restaurant and an owner keen on fishing trips.

, T2750-0657, www.rockingjs.com. A quite unique backpackers' resort by the beach. Rooms with or without fans, camping, communal kitchen, storage lockers and the locally infamous 'hammock-hotel' which is, literally, a hotel of hammocks. Attracts a fun, 'good vibrations' crowd; fronted with bright orange walls and interesting statues at the gate - you can't miss it.

, T2750-0109, www.laislainn. com. A stone's throw from the beach in front of Cocles Island, 12 comfortable rooms with great views from the balcony. Breakfast, sand- wiches and light snacks available at a small extra charge. German, Spanish and English spoken and the owners are more than happy to help you organize trips in the area.

, T2750-0326. Perfect for down-to-earth surfers, all the rooms overlook the ocean. They offer breakfast and lunch, hire out, buy and sell boards and organize lessons.

, T2750-0035, www.cari blue.com. Beautiful gardens surrounded by rainforest are home to 16 Italian-style bungalows, some made of dark hardwoods, and all with thatched roofs. They are spacious inside and out and have balconies. The private bathrooms are all decorated with colourful cracked-tile mosaics. One of the bungalows is fully equipped with kitchen. The restaurant has a Swiss chef and break- fast is included in the price. Swimming pool and bikes available for hire.

, T2750-0101. A cheap option with 7 rooms to choose from (with private bath).

, T2750-0455. 8 simple cabins that sleep up to 4 people in a quiet family home.

, T2750-0131, www.aguas claras-cr.com. 5 quaint cottages, all brightly painted in pinks, greens and aquas with picturesque white gables in trim surroundings. Fully equipped with everything you will need from a kitchen to mosquito nets and hot water.

, T2233-2200, www.villasdelcaribe.com. 2-storey apartments looking out to the sea, with fully equipped studio kitchens and a lounge for relaxing in. Not as special, but very friendly and just moments from the beach.

, 6 km from Puerto Viejo, T2750-0205, US toll free 1-800-521-5200, www.costarica-hotelkasha.com. 10 quiet bungalows surrounded by landscaped gardens and tropical forest. Satellite TV, very luxurious pool, open-air gym and jacuzzi if the relaxation gets too much. Packages include private airport shuttle, gourmet meals and drinks, tours available.

, T2750-0038, www.mirafloreslodge.com. Clearly the home of an artist and someone seeking to find a genuine affinity with nature. 10 rooms throughout the spacious lodge, with shared bath. Beautiful rooms with loads of natural light and decorated with tropical flowers. Upstairs a visionary shared area looks out directly onto the rainforest and you just have to relax. Pamela Navarro is making all efforts to support the ideals of sustainable tourism and it shows. Check the botanical gardens. While it may be a little too rustic for some, it's a great spot and recommended.

, T2750-0018, www.shawandhalodge.com. A luxury complex designed and laid out like an old village, with 11 refined and comfortable bungalows in a neo-primitive style. The bathrooms are particularly appealing and decked out with fantastic mosaics and loads of space. Shawandha have created a truely luxurious experience while managing to hold onto the sense that you are in the thick of the jungle. Well worth treating yourself. Wonderful ambience from the restaurant at night with dishes created by a French chef. The place positively oozes comfort. It's pricey, but worth it.

, T2750-0706, www.costaricatreehouse.com. Tree house and beach house accommodation sleeping 2-5 people, equipped with kitchen and close to the beach. A great experience especially for groups and families. Part of the Iguana Verde Federation, www.iguanaverde.com, which runs a conservation project to protect the endangered green iguana which may be wiped out if hunting continues. Visitors permitted on a limited basis, so call first - check the website for more information.

, T2750-0358. Basic cabins and a kitchen, just mins away from the beach.

, T2759- 9196. Fine wooden cabins, with balconies, hammocks and other good comforts.

, T2750-0147. Good choice for budget travellers with simple dormitory accommodation.

, T2759-9056, www.almondsandcorals.com. Brings a warm glow to the soul. Luxury camping in screened, elevated cabins with private bath and hot water - it's like camping without the mud, think 5-star hotel room in a large tent. To be woken by the hum of the jungle in the morning but knowing it can't get in is a special feeling that should be compulsory for all visitors to Costa Rica. Excellent open-air restaurant serving filling, tasty local seafood meals. Many activities available and the elevated walkways lead to a beautiful beach. They have been awarded a certificate for sustainable tourism. They prefer you to book through their San José office - walk-in vacancies rarely available.

, T2759-9200, jorge_puntauva@ yahoo.com. 8 rooms in a large, well built wooden house, private bath, fan, laundry service and can arrange tours. Caribbean food is cooked in their restaurant and it's 2 mins to the beach. There's also a language school here that offers some environmental, cultural and historical programmes.

, behind Aquamor, T2759-9204. 2 clean, simple and perfect rooms, set in a quiet tropical garden. Both have private hot water bath, mosquito net and ceiling fan and open on to a spacious veranda with tables, flowers and shells. The Californian owner is a chef and will cook dinner for guests on prior request. He has also explored every inch of the surrounding jungle, rivers and ocean and can organize tours to relatively undiscovered areas. He uses local guides and takes no personal commission.

or

(sic), 100 m or so south, T2759-9014, T2759-9097. Offers 14 rooms, small but clean, with cold or hot water, some have kitchen, fridge and direct TV (

). Set in a private courtyard, friendly owners.

, T2751-0130. 14 clean and tidy rooms, some with a/c and TV, cheaper without.

, T2751- 0054. Have a simple room when the mood takes them.

, T2754-2207. 4 very basic rooms, each with 2 beds with fan in a rickety old house, parking and bar beneath.

, T2750-0191. International menu, great food and service, refreshing chic decor, very good pasta, bruschetta, tapenade and hummus. Dinner only, closed Mon.

. The hotel restaurant serves authentic Spanish cuisine.

. Lives up to its good name, pancakes,

or simply toast and jam, Cahuita's best breakfasts.

. Has a distinctly tropical feel with spilt bamboo walls, sand floors and a good menu.

. Almost legendary delicious and totally authentic Caribbean and vegetarian food, nice people, good value, no alcohol licence (bring your own), many recommendations for breakfast and dinner, but don't expect quick service. She now also has a restaurant on the main street.

, opposite Coco's Bar. Has an extensive, cheap menu and a good lively atmosphere.

. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The rustic ambience is particularly nice in the evening when it's decked out with candles. Good Caribbean food.

, between Willie's Tours and Safari Cabins. Has a variety of mainly rice and beans options.

, see page . Open 0730-1200, 1630-2000. Need to arrive early and wait at least 45 mins for food. Red snapper and volcano potato are especially goof. For breakfast, try cheese, egg and tomato sandwich. Very good value.

, facing entrance to Park. Good fish and Chinese dishes.

-

. A small, well-designed restaurant serving only fish, which is cooked on the grill to order, alongside a selection of exotic salsas and salads. Very relaxed atmosphere.

, next to the Magellan Inn, 2 km north of Cahuita, call T2755-0104 for reservations. Open 0600-0900, closed Sun. A culinary feast of French and Creole creations and the best restaurant in the area. Recommended.

, Cahuita. Excellent new restaurant run by a Dutch hippy. The pizzas are named after celebrities with loads of good toppings such as ricotta, parmesan and ginger prawns, served on tables painted with slogans such as 'give pizza a chance'. Recommended.

. Good pizzas in an open-air restaurant.

, Cahuita. Fish and seafood, as the name suggests.

, Cahuita. Over Rikki's Bar. Fantastic pizzas, pastas, some Mexican and fish, plus good Italian wines.

, right on the beach serving

and Mexican food. Loads of seafood, from midday and a popular bar in the evening.

. Good little reggae bar looking out to the beach, with oropendola nests hanging out too. Excellent food cooked by Chao himself, including a very saucy vegetarian plate.

, a little way past Brigitte's place. An impressive open eating area owned and run by a pleasant German couple who cook delights such as goulash, bolognese and Berlin-style liver as well as fish and meat on a charcoal BBQ. A great experience.

. Laid back bar serving a mixed bag of Caribbean dishes, including fish curry and

.

, at the top of Playa Negra. Has a good restaurant and bar popular with the semi-resident gringo crowd with good rice and beans with chicken and salad. Recommended and worth the walk.

. The town's classiest restaurant and lounge bar. The Italian chef's speciality is Strozzopreti, a mix of aged Italian cheeses, another speciality is the ravioli; all the pasta is home-made.

. Has an exotic and wholesome menu with special seafood and vegetarian plates. Live music on Thu and Sat.

. Spanish food and seafood. Recommended, closed Mon.

-

, south of centre. Does good breakfasts from 0700, and good pizzas and meals for the rest of the day. Not cheap but recommended.

-

. Cosy place that specializes in Middle Eastern vegetarian delights, very reasonably priced with cocktail happy hours every night 1800-2000.

-

, south of centre. Does good breakfasts from 0700, and good pizzas and meals for the rest of the day. Not cheap but recommended.

. Stylish Mexican and Caribbean dishes.

, facing sea in the centre. Nice breezy atmosphere, a lively hub in town, specializes in cheap fish and seafood dishes.

, opposite Jacaranda. Has a well recommended cook (for those in the know, she used to cook for the Garden Restaurant) serves excellent, cheap

.

. Serves pizza cooked in a wood fire, also a good selection of salads, pasta and bruschetta, in a chilled and stylish bar.

, T2750-0525, www.hotrockscafe.com. Large restaurant/ bar hang out overlooking the sea, offers the only performing stage in the area. Live bands feature regularly, and the friendly American owner wants to introduce theatre. Every

night she plays 2 or 3 movies and also football

when it's on. Pizzas, steaks and fajitas cooked on volcanic rocks. Good community people.

. Has good, cheap typical food, including an excellent vegetarian rice and beans, and to-die-for chocolate cake that does not hang around for long.

, close to Miss Sam. Budget Mediterranean-style seafood café serving pastas and paellas.

. Fresh daily croissants, sandwiches and cakes on beachfront. Closed Wed.

, opposite the bus stop. Eclectic budget stuff, worth checking out.

, south of the centre. Good local food piled high, seriously cheap.

, on main street. Open 0600-2100. Local good fish dishes, excellent

, popular throughout the day, bar upstairs always packed at weekends - the life and soul of the place.

There are a handful of great

between Neptune Sports Bar and Bambu.

. The restaurant upstairs offers excellent Caribbean cuisine, laid-back breakfasts and good service in a fantastic location. Usually music coming from somewhere.

, within easy walking distance of the centre, T2750-0257. Stylish Italian restaurant with fresh bread and pasta.

-

. Serves Asian fusion - Japanese, Chinese and Thai, an elegant restaurant complete with oriental garden and waterfall.

, in a very pretty little restaurant shortly before Cariblue. Perfect to visit if you are staying in the area. Very friendly staff and a varied menu.

, further down the road. A vibrant

with online access.

. A small Peruvian seafood restaurant serving a mean

at good prices. Some rumours that it is closing down, however.

another option nearby.

, T2750-0265. Serving Caribbean traditional-style food washed down with cool beers to the sounds of reggae.

. French food with a great reputation.

. Serves freshly baked delights, and breakfast and lunch.

. Have a daily aperitif special between 1600 and 2000; they also hire kayaks and snorkel equipment and offer some local tours.

-

. Well known in the area for very good seafood and Caribbean dishes, but locals say the prices have been bumped up too high and few people eat there these days. Seems the most popular tourist choice for food, mainly because it is bigger and brighter than anywhere else - in fact there really aren't many other restaurant options. The bar has the potential to be lively when everyone's notglued to the TV, or slightly inebriated. 9 double rooms (

) including fan and bathroom, ideal for beach lovers.

, opposite the entrance to Pangea. Highly recommended by locals who rave about the home- made soups.

There are several restaurants and

around town.

and

are right in the centre of town. Both offer daily treats such as cocktail night, karaoke night or ladies' night, both are open fronted and so close together you can chose the liveliest and always swap if things change. Along the main street

also fills up.

Out of town, the places to get a drink include:

, the

and

.

, has a small bar and plays good chill-out stuff, but closes early.

, right on the beach. This is the place to end up at the end of the night when the reggae and dancehall continue well into the early hours. It's also a good spot to mill around and enjoy the music and ambience if you don't actually want to be right in the thick of it.

, past Salsa Brava. Don't get too excited - they're apparently often out of Guinness and there's nothing in the way of traditional ale, but there

is

an Irish flag on the wall and lots of Irish music. Good if you fancy something, er ... not very tropical.

, further east along the seafront. Featuring - reggae mainly - what else?

. Offers loaded cocktails and good-time relaxed vibes.

On the main street are

and

, with a pool table next door. Both are good places to start the evening with a drink or two, as is the lounge bar at

, where the chef is a DJ, so the crowd usually always knows where to locate the late-night party.

on the ocean corner off the main street also gets lively.

is an annual event in the calendar bringing together both local and national musicians and performers in the weeks leading up to Easter. Ask locally for further details or you could contact Playa Chiquita Lodge, T2750-0062.

For a wide range of books, check out

, above Lotus Garden.

, T2755-0071, dltacb@ racsa.co.cr. Long-established Tommy Thompson is a mine of information about the area and now a representative for Interbus. He also arranges sea-fishing trips, US$35 for 4 hrs, dolphin watching, canopy tours and snorkelling.

, just about to move office but still central, T2755-0267, www.willies- costarica-tours.com. Willie is an excellent and renowned tour operator. He prides himself on good service and uses experienced local guides. Tours include whitewater rafting at Río Pacuare and Reventazon, Tortuguero, visits to the Bribrí people, butterfly and iguana gardens, canopy tours, Bastimentos Panama and, most intriguingly, overnight trips to a healing Bribrí shaman. Can sort out most transport challenges in the country (including Cahuita-Tortuguero-La Fortuna for US$100! Also has high-speed internet access.

, T2758-0000.

, T2755-0328.

, T2755-01178.

, based in Manzanillo.

, T2750-0480, www.reefrunnerdivers.com, in Puerto Viejo. Offers full PADI courses and 'discover scuba', temporary 2-week certificates for unqualified divers to experience the underwater scene. A 2-tank boat dive costs about US$80 with at least 2 people.

Naturally, a lot of activities in the area involve water.

is best from Nov to Mar. You can also rent

gear, sea

,

and

from several places in town.

You can also rent

from

, 25 m south of the bus stop in Puerto Viejo, T8841-5578. Great for independent travel. You can visit Manzanillo, Cahuita, Bribrí or simply explore the area. They also hire

for more adventurous excursions. Scooters are also available at

, T2750-0257.

, T2750-0728, sales@dragonscooterrentals.com, in Puerto Viejo.

(Asociación Talamanqueña de Ecoturismo y Conservación), T2750- 0398, www.ateccr.org. Set up in 1990 to tackle some of the issues caused by rapid growth and now provides advice and organizes many trips in the area and has by far the broadest offering .

, T2750- 0004. Offers a range of trips, building on the popularity of the area.

, T2750-0750, www.terraventuras.com.

, T2750-0411, www.pto viejotours.com. Offer a full list of adventures, including such diverse combinations as the indigenous reserve and body rafting.

, opposite Maritza Bar, T2750- 0621, juppytinoadventures@yahoo.com.

, T2759-9012, www.greencoast. com/aquamor.htm. Have been operating a

and

centre out of Manzanillo since 1993 and have now established over 100 dive sites in the surrounding waters including diving trips to the Gandoca lagoon by kayak. While the general criticism of poor visibility in Costa Rica stands true, there are times when the diving can be world-class, the reef diving in particular. In general the diving is best in Sep and Oct, Apr and May, although opportunities always arrive outside these months. 2-tank dives start at US$55, a beach dive is US$30. A full PADI course is US$300. When not playing with tanks, the Aquamor team are

, something they claim they'll have you doing in no time. More genteel kayak adventures can be found in small rivers and lagoons. Kayak rental is US$6/hr or US$15 for 2 hrs guided.

trips in Gandoca- Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge using local captains and guides can also be arranged through Aquamor. US$35 or US$30 for more than 2 people.

A direct service from

Terminal del Caribe with

, T2257- 8129, at 0600, 1000, 1330 and 1530, return 0730, 0930, 1130, 1630, 4 hrs, US$6.80, and from

, in front of Radio Casino, T2758-1572, almost hourly from 0500-1800, returning 0630-2000, 1 hr, US$1.80. Both continue to

(US$0.60) and

(US$1.80) on the Panamanian border.

There are 4 daily buses from

from Gran Terminal del Caribe at 0600, 1000, 1330 and 1530, returning at 0700, 0900, 1100 and 1600, 4½ hrs, US$7.90.

in Puerto Viejo, T2750-0023. 10 daily buses from

between 0500-1800, 1½ hrs, US$2.60.

, US$0.65, 30 mins. 3 daily buses to

at 0730, 1200, 1630 and 1930, 30 mins, US$0.65. 5 daily buses to

0545-1915, 1½ hrs.

Express to Manzanillo from

, Terminal

Sixaola, daily, 1600, returning at 0630. Buses travel between

and Manzanillo. They leave Puerto Viejo at 0730, 1600 and 1930, returning at 0500, 0830 and 1700, 30 mins, US$0.80.

Local departures for

4 times a day, providing transport to the villages of

and

.

Direct buses leave Terminal del Gran Caribe in

at 0600, 1000, 1330 and 1530, 6 hrs, US9.80, returning at 0500, 0700, 0930, and 1430. You can join this bus at

,

,

and

. Additional options from Limón.

There is a branch of

on the main entrance road into Cahuita.

change dollars and TCs. But it's wise to take plenty of colones from Limón, although several places accept credit cards.

, opposite Cabinas Palmer, US$2 per hour.

, enquire for rates.

There is a launderette in town and also on the Playa Negra road.

, T2775- 0417, operates a language school in the area. Call or make inquiries at Belo Horizonte. The friendly owner of

is a professional teacher and offers groups and individuals Spanish lessons, around US$5 per person per hr.

Next to police station at northern end of town.

The

are at the northern end of town.

There is a branch of

in town. The alternative is to change cash and TCs at Manuel Leon's general store on the beach, although commission on TCs is high.

change cash and accept credit cards.

The post office is half a block south of ATEC.

is the communications hub of the town. You can visit them for international telephone calls, faxes and internet. There are also a couple of public telephones outside their office.

, a few doors down from ATEC, offers internet access, along with DVD and video rental.

just south of Stanford's, has a couple of internet connections.

can be contacted on the seafront.

There are no banks in Sixaola. It is

possible to change money in the supermarket

, but rates to the US dollar are very poor. Shops near the border in Panama will accept colones but shops in Changuinola and

beyond do not. If heading to Bocas del Toro the bank there does not accept colones.

The border is open 0700-1700. The immigration office is just before the railway bridge over the Sixaola river which marks the border with Panama. All formalities are quick and straightforward.