Cali

is 20 km to the northeast of Cali. The best way to the city is by minibus, which you will find at the far end of the pick-up road outside arrivals. From here taxis are relatively cheap to any destination in the city. Alternatively, take a taxi from the airport, US$25, 30 minutes. The minibuses to the airport, marked 'Aeropuerto', leave from the second floor of the bus terminal. There are direct flights to Cali from Mexico, Panama and several cities in the USA. The

The centre of the city is comparatively small - most places of interest to the visitor are within comfortable walking distance. Transport by bus or taxi is tedious because of the density of the traffic. Cali's taxis have meters and can be flagged in the street, or ordered by telephone.

There is little climate variation during the year, average temperatures stay around 25°C. It is hot and humid at midday but a strong breeze that blows up in the afternoon makes the evenings cool and pleasant. Rain can come at more or less any time but Cali is shielded from the heavy rainfalls of the Pacific coast by the Cordillera Occidental.

Cali is bounded on the west by the Cordillera and to the east by the marshy plains of the Río Cauca. Through the centre of the city runs the Río Cali, a tributary of the Cauca, with grass and exotic trees on its banks. North of the river, all streets have the suffix 'N', and Carreras become Avenidas. The city extends southwards 15 km from the Río Cali. Near the southern end a new area is building up around Carrera 100 with the large Unicentro shopping mall and the residential community of Ciudad Jardín.

In the early 1990s Cali achieved international notoriety through the success of its drug cartel. Known as the 'Gentlemen of Cali', thanks to their high society background, the Rodríguez Orejuela brothers and their associate José Santacruz Londoño profited from Pablo Escobar's war with the government, rising to supersede his Medellín organization. But in 1995, six of the seven heads were arrested and in 2006 the Rodríguez Orejuela brothers were extradited to the United States, effectively bringing and end to the era of the narco-trafficking cartel in Colombia. Although still associated with drug and anti-drug operations, the atmosphere in Cali is quite relaxed. Violent crime is still a problem in the city's barrios but less of a threat in more affluent areas. However, carry your passport (or photocopy) at all times and be prepared for police checks. At night, do not walk east or south of Calle 15 and Carrera 10. Do not change money on the street in any circumstances and avoid all people who approach, offering to sell. Take advice on where and where not to go.

(news, chat, entertainment, music and tourist information on

). For information on the many privately owned nature reserves in this part of Colombia, enquire at

, www.resnatur.org.co.

The capital of Valle del Cauca Department is set in an exceptionally rich agricultural area producing sugar, cotton, rice, coffee and cattle, and acts as the southern

capital of Colombia

It sits on the main route north from Ecuador along the Río Cauca and controls the passage to the only important port of Colombia's Pacific coast. Thanks to the port and the sugar industry, many Caribbeans and other groups of people came to the valley and now contribute to the city's wealth and entertainment. It was originally named Santiago de Cali, which name often officially used today. It has tropical climate, but with a freshness that makes for economic as well as cultural activity, producing 20% of the country's GNP.

Among the most interesting buildings in Cali are the church and monastery of

, with a long nave, well lit

and gold-headed columns. The adjoining 18th-century monastery has a splendidly proportioned domed bell tower in the mudejar style known as the

. On the opposite side of the square is the imposing 20-floor

building.

Cali's oldest church,

(which includes the church), a collection of 16th- and 17th-century paintings, and the

Opposite La Merced is the

Nearby, in Banco de la República building, is the

Another church the visitor cannot fail to notice is

reflecting the local importance of sugar cane, one of the few items that survived the earthquake. The neo-gothic blue and white exterior is striking. In the pleasant plaza in front of the church you can sit next to lifesize figures of notable

of the past, including Joaquin de Caycedo and Jorge Isaacs. Across the street is an example of the older architecture of the city, the ornate Colombia de Tabaco building.

The city's centre is the

, with a statue of one of the independence leaders, Joaquín de Caycedo y Cuero. Facing the square is the

, a large three-aisle church, with a clerestory, elaborate aisle niches and stained glass windows. The original church on the site dated from around 1539, the present building is mid-19th century. The

is on the eastern side of the plaza, a French neo-classical style building (1933), now the city archive.

Cross the river by the delightful, pedestrianized

, built in the 1840s, two blocks from the Plaza de Caicedo, to the

, alongside the Centro Administrativo Municipal (CAM) and the main post office. On the Paseo, are a bronze statue of

and a sculpture honouring Jorge Isaacs, the romantic 19th-century novelist, depicting the characters of his novel

.

A special feature of the centre of Cali is the ribbon of green along the river, lined with exotic and ancient trees that always give a freshness to the heat of the day. Several sculptures were commissioned in the late 1990s, now in position along the river: look out for the

a black bird seen everywhere along the coasts of Colombia and the splendid bronze

by Hernando Tejada, inaugurated in 1996. Also notable are the tall palms of Plaza Caicedo and the trees of the San Antonio park overlooking the west of the city. Cali prides itself on its trees. Several are marked out for conservation, for example, the huge

on Avenida 4N at Calle 10, by the viaduct.

Along the river from the city centre is the

, has exhibitions of South American including local art.

To the west of the city, a popular morning 'run' is up the hill to the 18th-century church of

on the Colina de San Antonio, built around 1747. It is a favourite place for weddings. There are some attractive colonial-style houses on the way and pleasant parkland on the top with fine views of the city, though partly obstructed by high- rise buildings.

For a full view of the city, you can take a taxi to the

, at 1450 m, to the northwest of the city, a traditional pilgrimage site in Holy Week, or go to the huge statue of Christ

, at 1470 m above San Antonio to the west of the city. This statue can be seen for 50 km across the Río Cauca. It is also worthwhile going up the skyscraper Torre de Cali for a view of the city, but you may have to buy an expensive meal as well.

The orchid garden,

A popular family park is

From Cali it is 135 km south to Popayán. The road crosses the Río Cauca, then rejoins the main east bank route south at Villa Rica. About 17 km along the main road is

, an attractive town with a colonial chapel, Capilla de Dominguillo, worth a visit. Ceramics and

handicrafts are sold here.