La Candelaria

The Plaza de Bolívar, marked out by the city's founders (as Plaza Mayor), is at the heart of the city. Around the Plaza are the narrow streets and mansions of the

, the historical and cultural heart of the city occupying the area of some 70 city blocks to the south of Avenida Jiménez de Quesada, north of Calle 6 and east of Carrera 10 . Because the main commercial and residential focus of the city moved down the hill and to the north early on, much of the original colonial town remains. It is one of the best-preserved major historical centres in Latin America, and as such has attracted artists, writers and academics to fill the sector with theatres, libraries and universities, for which Colombia has a very high reputation in the Spanish-speaking world. There are some delightful sights, especially the colonial houses with their barred windows, carved doorways, red-tiled roofs and sheltering eaves. The local authorities are helping to preserve and renovate properties and the cobbled streets, a feature of Candelaria. Many of the best of Bogotá's churches and colonial buildings are in this district. Some hotels are found in this part, more along the margins, for example Avenida Jiménez de Quesada. The streets are relatively uncrowded and safe, although care should be exercised after dark. West of Carrera 10 and south of Calle 6 is seedier and not recommended for pedestrians.

Plaza de Bolívar is the central square of Bogotá, with a statue of the Liberator at its centre. The cathedral stands on the northeast corner of the square. The first was completed in 1553 to replace a small chapel where Fray Domingo de las Casas said the first mass in Bogotá. The present building was constructed between 1807 and 1823. It has a fine, spacious interior, redecorated (1998) in cream and gold with high ceilings across three naves. There are lateral chapels in classical style, a notable choir loft of carved walnut, wrought silver on the altar of the Chapel of El Topo and elaborate candelabras. Treasures and relics include paintings attributed to Ribera and the banner brought by Jiménez de Quesada to Bogotá in the sacristy, which also houses portraits of past Archbishops. There are monuments to Jiménez and to Antonio Nariño inside the cathedral. In one of the chapels near the altar is buried

(1638-1711), the most notable painter in colonial Colombia. A number of his paintings can be seen in the Cathedral, which is open most days from 0900-1200. Next to it is the

, built at the end of the 17th century. There are two aisles with wooden balconies above and a fine red/gilt ceiling and screen. The inside of the dome was painted by Ricardo Acevedo Bernal. There are several paintings by Gregorio Vázquez de Arce y Ceballos. Mass is celebrated at 0800 and 1700 during the week. Next door is the

On the south side of the Plaza de Bolívar is the

, originally the site of the Viceroy's Palace. In 1846, Thomas Reed, born in Tenerife and educated in England, was commissioned to build the Capitolio, but it was fraught with difficulties from the start. Construction was suspended in 1851, to be recommenced in 1880 by Pietro Cantini, who finished the façade to the original design in 1911. The rest was finally 'finished' in 1927 by Alberto Manrique Martín. Many other architects and engineers were involved at various times. In fact it is still being restored, now by the Instituto Nacional de Vías (National Road Institute), which has a department that specializes in maintaining national monuments. The Capitolio houses several Ministries, the Supreme Court, Consejo de Estado and Congress. On the corner of Carrera 8/Calle 10 is the

and includes the main tourist office of the city.

The

The former building was badly damaged when the Army recaptured it from the M19 guerrillas who attacked and took it over in 1985. Eventually it was pulled down and a new one was completed in April 1999.

On the northeast corner of Calle 11/Carrera 7 is the

, also known as the

Just off the plaza is

, one of the few original squares in Candelaria, a garden of trees and flowers with balconied buildings around and the dome of the Capilla del Sagrario visible above. The Palacio Arzobispal (Cardinal's Palace) is to the left. To the right of the square is The

, where Antonio Nariño's translation of Thomas Paine's 'Rights of Man' was published in 1794. This had a profound influence on the growing demand for independence from Spain . You can read an extract from the text in Spanish on the wall of the building.

Opposite, on the corner of Calle 10/Carrera 6 is the

Further up Calle 10, at No 5-51, is the

, where Bolívar lived for a time. He is said to have planted the now huge walnut tree in the courtyard. On 25 September 1828, there was an attempt on his life and his mistress, Manuela Sáenz, thrust him out of the window (a plaque facing Calle 10 marks the event) and he was able to hide for two hours under the stone arches of the bridge across the Río San Agustín, now Calle 7. Santander, suspected of complicity, was arrested and banished. Later, it was the home of the Presidents of Colombia at various times until 1980. At present it houses the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Opposite is the

Across Carrera 5 is the

.

The building was originally constructed to house part of the National University but is now a museum devoted to the Colombian armed forces and has a interesting collection of weapons. There is also a detailed presentation of the independence campaign of 1819.

One block north is the

(The Mint)

, which was found in 1936 on a small island in the Río Magdalena, is displayed. There is a coin and banknote exhibition upstairs and occasional extra art shows. Next door, a permanent display of Fernando Botero's work was opened in 2000 as

Opposite and running the full block between Carrera 4 and Carrera 5 is the

the other side of Calle 11. There is a splendid concert hall, where public concerts are usually cheap or free. The library is very popular with students, who will be found queuing an hour before it opens at 0800 to secure a study place in the reading room. On the corner of Calle 11/Carrera 4 is

, part of an Augustinian friary originally established in 1560. This is an 18th-century three-nave colonial church with some fine carving and a gilded reredos. The structure is in poor shape and desperate steps have been taken to buttress the southwest corner.

A few blocks north of here is

, www.casadepoesiasilva.com

. The poet José Asunción Silva lived here until his death in 1895. This is a good introduction to the restored colonial house, with a peaceful garden patio. There is a museum, bookshop and a fine audio and book library with taped readings of almost every Spanish-speaking author. CDs can be bought in the bookshop. There are also lectures and poetry readings.

Up from the Casa de Poesía to Calle 14/Carrera 2, turn right up a delightful narrow way (Callejón del Embudo) to the

, which is believed to be the centre of the Muisca village of Teusaquillo (or Tibsaquillo) and was certainly where Jiménez de Quesada took possession of the territory in the name of King Charles of Spain to form the kingdom of New Granada on 6 August 1538. The centre of the city later moved down to flatter ground (around what is now the Parque Santander), but a commemorative chapel (now a cultural centre) was built on the corner of this plaza and many other houses were built around and below. The name dates from about 1800 when Father Francisco Quevedo provided a

(well) for the local people. From time to time during the day you will see many students here taking a break from their studies at the several universities nearby, adding to the activity (and the safety) of the area until around 2000 in the evening.

Down Calle 13 is the first home of the

One block south of the plaza is the museum of

Opposite is the

, built in 1802, one of the first in Latin America, while further south, at Carrera 8/Calle 8 is the

is a fascinating recreation of a 'poor man's chemist' shop of the period. Note the decoration of the rooms on the second floor and the staircase woodwork. A 19th-century-style coffee shop was opened in 2000, which has good coffee to order, mini sandwiches and snacks, it is not cheap but is very pleasant. There are newspapers and books to read.

Another block south, past the front of the Palacio de Nariño to Calle 7/Carrera 8, is the

(or

)

, the presidential palace, is on Calle 7. It has a spectacular interior with a fine collection of contemporary Colombian paintings. Enquire if there are guided tours. The ceremonial guard is normally changed daily at 1730.

Opposite is the

, built between 1637 and 1668, the tower being a later addition. It is strongly ornamented with an interesting coffered ceiling in the crypt. Note the ceilings in the nave and also the chandeliers. It was restored in 1988 and inside has a bright, cheerful appearance. There are several paintings by Gregorio Vázquez de Arce y Ceballos. The Image of Jesus was proclaimed Generalissimo of the army in 1812.

East of here is the

, which is sponsored by the Banco Popular. This is the restored mansion of the Marqués de San Jorge, which is itself a beautiful example of 17th- century Spanish colonial architecture. The museum is arranged in themes rather than periods and is not well labelled. However it is an impressive and comprehensive collection of decorated ceramics from all the early cultures of Colombia. The restored murals of the original house are also interesting.

A block further east is the

, a boys college. Inside, a cobbled 'street' leads upwards with three courtyards and the buildings of the former Carmelite community on the left, all in the same style as the church, now serving the school. On the corner of Carrera 5/Calle 9 is the former Carmelite chapel with its bell tower above and a rounded balcony on Calle 9 housing the altar of the chapel. This building, known as the

was faithfully restored as a colonial building in 1957 and is now used as a theatre. The entrance is Calle 9, No 4-77.

From Plaza Bolívar, Carrera 7, which was the first important street of Bogotá, runs four blocks to Avenida Jiménez de Quesada, connecting the administrative centre of the city with Parque Santander, the first residential area and now the commercial hub of the capital. This street is locally known as the Calle Real del Comercio. On the corner of Carrera 7/Calle 12A is the

, the headquarters of the country's postal services on the site of the colonial church of Santo Domingo. In the building there is the

. Up Calle 13 and left at Carrera 6 there are two universities:

, and

near the corner at Calle 14, No 6-25. The latter school is the second oldest in Bogotá, was founded by Father Cristóbal de Torres of the order of Santo Domingo in the 16th century and is a typical cloistered school of the period.

, the botanist, taught natural sciences and medicine here. You can buy a good cheap lunch at the cafeteria and great crêpes. Alongside is the chapel of the Order -

. Inside is an embroidered Virgin made by Queen Isabel de Borbón for Father Cristóbal on his appointment as Archbishop of Santa Fe de Bogotá. The elegant façade has some fine stone carvings above the entrance.

Although not strictly in the Barrio de Candelaria, the cluster of interesting buildings around the

are appropriately part of Old Bogotá, with three of the finest churches in Colombia. After crossing Jiménez de Quesada, the

is immediately to your left. It is an interesting mid-16th-century church with paintings of famous Franciscans, choir stalls, a famous ornate gold high altar (AD1622), and a fine Lady Chapel with blue and gold ornamentation. The remarkable ceiling is in Spanish-

(Moorish) style. Try to see this church when fully illuminated. Behind it along Avenida Jiménez de Quesada is the

, built between 1918 and 1933 for the Gobernación de Cundinamarca, on the site of the Franciscan friary. Designed in the republican style, it has a fine façade and competed to some degree with the Capitolio Nacional. It is now part of the Rosario University. Next to the San Francisco church and overlooking Parque Santander is the

, first built eight years after the founding of Bogotá, rebuilt in 1731, and again in 1904. In 1910 it became the Panteón Nacional e Iglesia de la República. José de Caldas, the famous scientist, was buried under the church along with many other patriots victims of the Spanish 'Reign of Terror' around 1815. It has a bright white and red interior and a fine decorated ceiling. Fashionable weddings are held here. Across Calle 16 is the third major church

, a colonial church famous for its carved woodwork along the nave and a high balcony, massive wooden altar reredos, and confessionals. It was built by the Third Franciscan Order in the 17th century, hence the name.

On the northeast corner of the Parque de Santander is the

(the Gold Museum), in the splendid premises of the Banco de la República. This collection is a 'must', and is perhaps the finest museum in all of South America. There are more than 35,000 pieces of pre-Columbian gold work in the total collection, most of which is held here. The rest is divided between other regional Museos de Oro (all of which are worth a visit), sponsored by the Banco de la República throughout Colombia. Many thousands of pieces are displayed.