Up the Rio Negro in the Amazon, Brazil

It is possible to get a public passenger boat from Sao Raimundo port on the outskirts of Manaus up the Rio Negro . There are hardly any villages of more than a few houses, but these places are important in terms of communications and food resources. It is vital to be self-sufficient in terms of food and cash and to be able to speak Portuguese or have a Brazilian guide. Nova Airão, on the west bank of the Negro, is an overnight, eight-hour boat trip upstream. It has a large boat-building centre at the south end, and a fish and vegetable market at the north end. Ice and bread can also be purchased here. It has a telephone, from which international calls can usually be made. There is road access and a bus service from Manaus.

It's two days from Nova Airão to the
Parque Nacional Jaú
. The only way to get here is with a tour; there is no transport or facilities. Permits are necessary; contact
Ibama
, www.ibama.com.br
.

Moura
is about five days upstream from Manaus. It has basic medical facilities and the military base has an airstrip (only usable September to December) and tele- communications. About a day further upstream is
Carvoeira
, almost opposite the mouth of the Rio Branco. There is a vibrant festival in the first week of August. A couple of days beyond is
Barcelos
, with a daily air service, except Sundays, the centre for bass fishing on the Amazon. There are a couple of places to stay here.

São Gabriel da Cachoeira and on towards Venezuela

A great distance further upstream is São Gabriel da Cachoeira, some 900 km and 10 days from Manaus by boat. The city is tiny and sits under a hulking boulder mountain in front of a series of dramatic rapids. There are fine white-sand beaches on the Negro during the dry season. São Gabriel is near the
Pico da Neblina National Park
, named after the highest mountain in Brazil (3014 m).

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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