Oiapoque in the Amazon, Brazil

North of Macapá the road divides at
Porto Grande
, and a branch heads northwest to
Serra do Navio
where manganese extraction has now ended (
Hotel Serra do Navio
and several bars and restaurants). The BR-156 continues north, passing the turnings for two jungle hotels. The paved road goes as far as
Ferreira Gomes
on the shores of the Rio Araguari. Further on is
Amapá
, formerly the territorial capital and location of a Second World War American airbase. There are a few hotels. Beyond Amapá is
Calçoene
, with a government- owned hotel that serves expensive food in an adjoining canteen; very cheap sleeping space is also advertised in a café on the Oiapoque road. North of Calçoene a road branches west to
Lourenço
, whose goldfields still produce even after decades of prospecting. The main road continues north across the Rio Caciporé and on to the border with French Guyane at
Oiapoque
, on the river of the same name.

Oiapoque

This is a ramshackle little gold-mining town with dirt streets lined with little guesthouses, spit-and-sawdust bars and shops buying the precious metal by the gram. It lies 90 km inland from
Cabo Orange
, Brazil's northernmost point on the Atlantic Coast and the site of one of its wildest and remotest national parks. Access to the park is very difficult although guides can sometimes be arranged through the boatmen on the river docks in Oiapoque.

Oiapoque town has its share of contraband, illegal migration and drug trafficking and can be a little rough; visitors should be cautious, especially late at night. With the building of the road between St-Georges Oyapock and Cayenne, the town has become a popular spot for French Guianan weekenders, most of them single men and in search of more than a drink. The
Cachoeira Grande Roche
rapids can be visited, upstream along the Oiapoque river, where it is possible to swim, US$30 by motor boat. The
Associação dos Povos Indígenas de Oiapoque
, in front of the Banco do Brasil, provides information about the indigenous peoples that live in the area, and the indigenous Uaçá reserve.

The road construction has led to significant environmental damage with much deforestation along the Brazilian side of the road in Amapá, and Brazilian
garimpeiros
and hunters illegally flooding into Guyane have been causing havoc in pristine forests.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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