Serra da Mantiqueira in Brazil

The small town of Penedo, 175 km from Rio, attracted Finnish settlers in the 1930s who brought the first saunas to Brazil. There is a Finnish museum, a cultural centre and Finnish

dancing on Saturdays. This popular weekend resort also provides horse riding and swimming

in the Portinho River. There are five buses a day from Resende. There is a

and plenty of mid-range and cheap hotels in town.

About 33 km beyond Penedo (part of the road is unpaved) is the charming small village of Visconde de Mauá in the

. In the early 20th century Swiss and German immigrants settled in the town, which is popular with tourists today. The surrounding scenery is lovely, with green valleys, clear rivers, wild flowers and opportunities for good walks and outdoor activities. Many places offer acupuncture, shiatsu massage and macrobiotic food and there is a hippy feel to the crafts on sale. Horses can be hired in Visconde de Mauá from Berto (almost opposite Vendinha da Serra), or Pedro (Lote 10) and many places in Maringá arrange riding. The

is good for canoeing and there is an annual national event.

Three other small hill towns are nearby:

, at 1700 m, with semi-tropical vegetation;

, just across the state border in Minas Gerais and a delightful two- hour walk; and

. On the way to Maromba is the

, a lookout with a view of the Rio Preto, which runs through the region and is the border between Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais states. Also in Minas Gerais, 6 km upriver from Maringá but on a different road, are the

. Between Visconde de Mauá and Maringá is a natural pool in the river. After Maromba follow the signs to

, a small waterfall and waterslide with a cold natural swimming pool, a 2-km walk. A turning off this road leads to another waterfall, the

.

Although served by buses from both São Paulo and Rio,

are spread out and the area is best visited with a car. For

, the website www.guia maua.com.br lists many of the hotels and restaurants and gives a good overview of the area.