Santa Teresa in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

A tram ride from the cathedral to Santa Teresa over the Arcos de Lapa viaduct is an unmissable Rio experience. The old yellow trams clatter up the winding, hilly streets lined with pretty colonial houses and lavish mansions towards the forested slopes of Tijuca national park, leaving in their wake sweeping views of Guanabara Bay and the Sugar Loaf. Along the way they pass the

and the

, little

of shops and restaurants that feel as if they belong clustered around a village green rather than in a large city. For nowhere in this city of distinct neighbourhoods is more of a world unto itself than Santa Teresa.

The neighbourhood has a strong community identity forged by one of the highest concentrations of artists, writers and musicians in the city, who congregate in bars like

on the Largo dos Guimarães or

on the Largo das Neves. At weekends the lively nightlife spills over into clubs like

and then into neighbouring Lapa which is only a five-minute taxi ride away. Those who can bear to be away from the beach often find staying in Santa Teresa a far more culturally rewarding experience than the southern suburbs and there are many excellent options.

The best way to visit Santa Teresa is on the traditional open-sided

, the

. This can be caught from the terminus next to the Catedral Metropolitana or from Cinelândia: take the metrô to Cinelândia station, go to Rua Senador Dantas then walk along to Rua Profesor Lélio Gama; the station is up this street. In recent years, Santa Teresa has had a reputation for crime, however, the area is much more heavily policed nowadays. Be vigilant with your camera and be particularly wary after dark. Steer clear of any steps that lead down the hill and on Rua Almirante Alexandrino or at the Tijuca end of Largo dos Guimarães.

Santa Teresa is best explored on foot: wander the streets to admire the colonial buildings or stop for a beer in a little streetside café and marvel at the view. The better colonial houses, most of which are private residences, include the

(a castle-like house in Vista Alegre), the tiled

in Rua Monte Alegre and the

. This was the house in which Dona Laurinda Santos Lobo held her famous artistic, political and intellectual salons at the turn of the 20th century. The house was in ruins until it was partially restored and turned into a cultural centre called

Next door is the

, or

 www.museu castromaya.com.br,

housed in the former home of the Carioca millionaire and art collector, Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya. It has a wide range of works by modern painters, including Modigliani and important Brazilian like Di Cavalacanti. There are wonderful views out over Guanabara Bay. To get to both the Chácara and the Parque das Ruínas take the Santa Teresa tram to Curvelo station, walk along Rua Dias de Barros, following the signposts to Parque das Ruínas. There are also superb views from the