Ipanema and Leblon in Rio de Janeiro
Like Copacabana and Leme, Ipanema and Leblon are essentially one long curving beach enclosed by the monolithic Dois Irmãos rocks at the western end and the Arpoador rocks to the east. And, like Copacabana and Leme, they have few sights beyond the sand, the landscape and the beautiful people. Comparisons, however, end there. Ipanema and Leblon are as fashionable and cool as Copacabana is grungy and frenetic. If Copacabana is samba, then Ipanema is bossa nova: wealthy, sealed off from the realities of Rio in a neat little fairy-tale strip of streets and watched over by twinkling lights high up on the flanks of the Morro Dois Irmãos. They look so romantic that it is easy to forget that they come from the world's largest favela.
Closeted and cosseted though it may be, these are the beach suburbs in which to base yourself whilst in Rio. Almost all of the city's best restaurants and bars are here (and in the suburbs of Gávea and Lagoa, which lie behind). The streets are fairly clean and usually walked by nothing more dangerous than a small white poodle; there is plenty of reasonable accommodation, which doesn't rent by the hour at the lower end of the market; and the sea is good for swimming.
Ins and outsThere is no metrô in Ipanema or Leblon. The destination for buses is clearly marked but, as a rule of thumb, any buses heading east along the seafront go to Copacabana or if going west to Barra da Tijuca, and those going inland will pass by the Lagoa or Gávea.
SightsLike Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon are places for people-watching. A half-day wandering around Ipanema/Leblon followed by a half-day wandering Copacabana/ Leme can be most interesting. The crowds are quite different. While Copacabana attracts a real cross-section of Rio society, Ipanema and Leblon are predominantly haunts of the fashionable peacocks, who strut along the beachfront promenade, especially around
Posto Nove
. Beyond the people and the breathtaking landscape, there is little to see here but plenty to do, especially for avid consumers. Shopping is best on and around Garcia D'Avila and at the
Feira Hippy
, where you will find everything from high-quality Brazilian designer swimwear to seed bracelets and T-shirts with pictures of Bob Marley. Those seeking culture but unwilling to leave the beach should head for the
Casa de Cultura Laura Alvim
Museus H Stern
Amsterdam Sauer
Garota de Ipanema
, the bar where the
Girl from Ipanema
was written in the late 1950s .
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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