Paraty in Brazil

Paraty is one of Brazil's prettiest colonial towns and one of Rio de Janeiro state's most popular tourist destinations. It is at its most captivating at dawn, when all but the dogs and chickens are sleeping. As the sun peeps over the horizon the little rectilinear streets are infused with a rich golden light, which warms the whitewash and brilliant blue-and- yellow window frames of the colonial town houses and the façades of the Manueline churches. Brightly coloured fishing boats bob up and down in the water in the foreground and behind the town the deep green of the rainforest-covered mountains of the Serra da Bocaina sit shrouded in their self-generated wispy cloud. The town was founded in the 17th century as a gold port and most of its historic buildings date from this period.

At the weekend Paraty buzzes with tourists who browse in the little boutiques and art galleries or buy souvenirs from the indigenous Guarani who proffer their wares on the cobbles. At night they fill the numerous little bars and restaurants, many of which, like the
pousadas
, are owned by the bevy of expat Europeans who have found their haven in Paraty and who are determined to preserve its charm. During the week, especially off season, the town is quiet and intimate, its atmosphere as yet unspoilt by the increasing numbers of independent travellers.

The town's environs are as beautiful as Paraty itself. Just a few kilometres away lie the forests of the
Ponta do Juatinga Peninsula
, fringed by wonderful beaches, washed by little waterfalls and still home to communities of Caiçara fishermen who live much as they have done for centuries. Islands pepper the bay, some of them home to ultra-rare animals such as the tiny golden lion tamarin monkey, which is found nowhere else. The best way to visit these destinations is on a boat trip with one of the town's fishermen from the quay.

Getting to Paraty

The
rodoviária
is at the corner of Rua Jango Padua and Rua da Floresta. There are direct bus connections with Rio and São Paulo several times daily, and with a number of destinations along the coast. Taxis charge a set rate. Staff at the
Centro de Informações Turísticas
, are friendly and helpful and some speak English. There is a good town map in the
Welcome to Paraty
brochure, www.eco-paraty.com. More information is available at www.paraty.com.br. The wettest months are January, February, June and July. In spring, the streets in the colonial centre may flood, but the houses remain above the waterline.

Sights in Paraty

In keeping with all Brazilian colonial towns, Paraty's churches were built according to social status and race. There are four churches in the town, one for the 'freed coloured men', one for the blacks and two for the whites.
Santa Rita
(1722), built by the 'freed coloured men' in elegant Brazilian baroque, faces the bay and the port. It is probably the most famous picture postcard image of Paraty and houses a small
Museum of Sacred Art
.
Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Benedito
, (1725, rebuilt 1757) built by black slaves, is small and simple; the slaves were unable to raise the funds to construct an elaborate building.
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
, is the town's parish church, the biggest in Paraty. It was started in 1787 but construction continued until 1873. The church was never completely finished as it was built on unstable ground; the architects decided not to add weight to the structure by putting up the towers. The façade is leaning to the left, which is clear from the three doors. Built with donations from the whites, it is rumoured that Dona Geralda Maria da Silva contributed gold from a pirate's hoard found buried on the beach.
Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores
 (1800), is a chapel facing the sea. It was used mainly by wealthy 19th-century whites.

There is a great deal of distinguished Portuguese colonial architecture in delightful settings.
Rua do Comércio
is the main street in the historic centre. It was here that the prominent traders lived, the two-storey houses having the commercial establishments on the ground floor and the residences above. Today the houses are occupied by restaurants,
pousadas
and tourist shops.

The
Casa da Cadeia
, close to Santa Rita Church, is the former jail, complete with iron grilles in the windows and doors. It is now a public library and art gallery.

On the northern headland is a small fort,
Forte do Defensor Perpétuo
, built in 1822, whose cannon and thick ruined walls can be seen. From the fort there are good views of the sea and the roofs of the town. It's about 15 minutes' walk from the centre. To get there, cross the Rio Perequê Açu by the bridge at the end of the Rua do Comércio; climb the small hill, which has some attractive
pousadas
and a cemetery, and follow the signs. Also here is the
Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions
, in a colonial-style building. It contains carved wooden canoes, musical instruments, fishing gear and other items from local communities. On the headland is the gunpowder store and enormous hemispherical iron pans that were used for extracting whale oil, which was used for lamps and to mix with sand and cement for building.

Boat trips and beaches

The most popular trip, and highly recommended, is a five-hour
schooner tour
around the bay for swimming. Smaller boats are available for an hour or three hours. Many beautiful beaches are visited.

Praia do Pontal
is the town beach, five minutes' walk from the historic centre: cross the bridge and turn right along the river. The water and sand are not very
clean but the handful of
barracas
under the trees are a nice place to hang out.
Praia do Jabaquara
is about 20 minutes away on foot: cross the bridge and continue straight up the hill. There are a few
barracas
here and the sand is cleaner, but the water tends to be muddy.

There are other beaches further from town, many of which make worthwhile excursions. Scruffy
Boa Vista
is just south of town and beyond this (reachable only by boat) are, in order, the long, broad and clean stretches of
Praia da Conçeicao
,
Praia Vermelha
and
Praia da Lula
, all of which have simple restaurants and are backed by forest and washed by gentle waves. The
Saco da Velha
, further south still, is small and intimate, protected by an island and surrounded by rainforested slopes.

The small town of
Paraty Mirím
, is 17 km away and has a vast sweeping beach with a Manueline church built on the sand and some ruined colonial buildings. It is reached by boat or by four buses a day (three on Sunday) and has simple restaurants and places to camp. Fishing boats leave from here for other islands and beaches including the
Praia do Pouso da Cajaíba
, which has lodgings of the same name, and the spectacular sweep at
Martim do Sá
. The
Saco do Mamanguá
is a long sleeve of water that separates the Ponta da Juatinga and Paraty Mirím, which has good snorkelling.

Caminho do Ouro (Gold Trail)

This partly cobbled trail through the mountains was built by slaves in the 18th century to bring gold down from Ouro Preto before transporting it to Portugal. Recently restored, it can be visited, along with the ruins of a toll house, on foot or horseback as a day trip. Tours leave from the
Teatro Espaço
.

There are several
cachoeiras
(waterfalls) in the area, such as the
Cachoeira da Penha
, near the church of the same name. It is 10 km from town on the road to Cunha; take a local bus from the
rodoviária
, US$1, there are good mountain views on the way. The tourist office and travel agencies have details on the waterfalls and hikes.

A recommended excursion is to
Fazenda Murycana
, an old sugar estate and 17th-century
cachaça
distillery with original house and waterwheel. You can taste and buy the different types of
cachaça
; some are aged in oak barrels for 12 years. Try the
cachaça com cravo e canela
(with clove and cinnamon). There is an excellent restaurant and horse riding is available but English is not spoken by the employees. Mosquitoes can be a problem at the
fazenda
, take repellent and don't wear shorts. To get there, take a 'Penha/Ponte Branca' bus from the
rodoviária
, four a day; alight where it crosses a small white bridge and then walk 10 minutes along a signed, unpaved road. There is a good chance of hitching a lift back to Paraty.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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