Ilha Grande in Brazil
Ilha Grande is a mountain ridge covered in tropical forest protruding from the emerald sea and fringed by some of the world's most beautiful beaches. There are no cars and no roads, just trails through the forest, so the island is still relatively undeveloped. With luck it will remain so, as much of Ilha Grande forms part of a state park and biological reserve, and cannot even be visited.
That the island has so much forest is largely a fluke of history. The island was a notorious pirate lair in the 16th and 17th centuries and then a landing port for slaves. By the 20th century it was the site of an infamous prison for the country's most notorious criminals, including the writer Graciliano Ramos , whose
Memórias do Cárcere
relate his experiences. The prison closed in 1994 and is now overgrown. Since then Ilha Grande has been a well-kept Brazilian secret, and is gradually becoming part of the international backpacker circuit.
Fishing boats and ferries, leave from Angra dos Reis and Mangaratiba taking two hours or so to reach Vila do Abraão, the island's only real village. From Angra they only leave in the morning and early afternoon and must be chartered. The weather is best from March to June and the island is over-run during the Christmas, New Year and Carnaval periods. There is a helpful
tourist office
on the jetty at Abraão. Further information and pictures can be found at www.ilhagrande.com. Be wary of undercover police searching for backpackers smoking cannabis on Ilha Grande's beaches.
The beach at
Abraão
may look beautiful to new arrivals but those further afield are far more spectacular. The two most famous are:
Lopes Mendes
, a long stretch of sand on the eastern (ocean side) backed by flatlands and patchy forest; and
Aventureiro
, fringed by coconut palms and tropical forest, its powder-fine sand pocked with boulders and washed by a transparent aquamarine sea. Lopes Mendes is two hours' walk from Abraão. Aventureiro is over six hours, but it can be reached by boat. A few fishermen's huts and
barracas
provide food and accommodation here but there is no camping. Good beaches closer to Abraão include the half-moon bay at
Abraãoozinho
(15 minutes' walk) and
Grande das Palmas
, which has a delightful tiny whitewashed chapel (one hour 20 minutes' walk). Both lie east of the town past
Hotel Sagu
. There are boat trips to
Lagoa Azul
, with crystal-clear water and reasonable snorkelling,
Freguesia de Santana
and
Saco do Céu
.
There are a couple of good treks over the mountains to
Dois Rios
, where the old jail was situated. There is still a settlement of former prison guards here who have nowhere to go. The walk is about 13 km each way, takes about three hours and affords beautiful scenery and superb views. Another three-hour hike is to
Pico do Papagaio
(980 m) through forest; it's a steep climb for which a guide is essential, however, the view from the top is breathtaking.
Pico da Pedra d'Água
(1031 m) can also be climbed.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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