Marechal Deodoro in Brazil
Marechal Deodoro and around
. It offers an interesting insight into the simplicity of life in Brazil at the end of the 19th century, even for those in the upper middle classes. Marechal Deodoro's large family lived in a few simple rooms; it is easy to imagine them dining together by oil lamp around the plain hard-wood table, watched over by the family patriarch. Typical northeastern
.
Ins and outs
The former capital of Alagoas is 22 km south of Maceió across the impressive brackish lakes that give the state its name, and just behind one of the best resort beaches in the northeast,
Praia do Francês
. The town is well worth a visit, not only for its delightful crumbling buildings and expansive lake, but because of it has a wonderful, laid-back feel and is unspoilt by tourism. It's built on a hill, overlooking
Lake Manguaba
. Boat trips can be organized through tour guides such as
Del
.
The town is named after Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca, the charismatic general who founded the Brazilian republic after the deposition of Emperor Dom Pedro II. The modest townhouse where he grew up is now the
Museo Marechal Deodoro
macramé
lace can be bought outside the museum in the adjacent houses.
The town is very pleasant to wander around, which takes all of 20 minutes. The cobbled streets are lined with attractive colonial houses, some of which have been converted into modest restaurants and
pousadas
. These lead to a series of squares watched over by impressive if decrepit Portuguese churches. Some are almost beyond repair, but the most impressive, the
Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Conceição
built in 1783 has undergone full restoration, returning to its full baroque glory in late 2008. Be sure to have a peek inside. The 17th-century
Convento de São Francisco
on Praça João XXIII, has another fine baroque church,
Santa Maria Magdalena
, with a superb wooden altarpiece tha t has been badly damaged by termites. You can climb the church tower for views of the town. Adjoining it is the
Museu de Arte Sacra
It is easy to visit Marechal on a day trip from Maceió and still have time left over to enjoy the sun and surf on
Praia do Francês
. It is one of the state's most beautiful beaches, pounded by glass-green surf at one end, protected by a fringing reef at the other and shaded by towering coconut palms along its entire length. There are plenty of
barracas
, restaurants and bars selling drinks and seafood.
There are more beaches beyond Francês, including
Barra de São Miguel
, entirely protected by the reef. It gets crowded at weekends. Several good, cheap
barracas
serve food and drink and there are some decent places to stay. Carnaval is very lively here.
Minivans run to Marechal Deodoro and Praia do Francês from in front of Hospital Santa Casa next to the Texaco station on Avenida Rio Branco in the city centre. Tour operators in Maceió offer day trips and can organize air-conditioned private transport.
Praia do Francês and Marechal Deodoro have accommodation. For more information see www.praiadofrances.net and www.turismo.al.gov.br.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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