Recife in Brazil

Recife is one of the most attractive large cities in Brazil. From afar it looks as blighted by skyscrapers as Rio de Janiero or Belo Horizonte, but in the shadows are many fine colonial buildings from the sugar boom, watching over little shady squares or sitting on the edge of the filigree of canals and waterways that divide up the city. The colonial heart is

; a no-go area like Rio's Lapa until a decade ago, but now the centre of the city's booming music and alternative culture scene. To the south of the centre are a string of urban beach suburbs -

,

and

- which although frequented by bull sharks are among the cleanest urban beaches in the country. The city prides itself on good food and unique fashion and has many fine restaurants and boutiques. Although they retain separate names, Recife and Olinda have long ceased to be two cities. Olinda is now Recife's colonial suburb.

International and domestic flights arrive at

Long-distance buses arrive at the

(

), pronounced 'chippy'. To get to the centre from the

, take the metrô to Central station. If going to Boa Viagem, get off the metrô at Central station (Joanna Bezerra station is unsafe) and take a bus or taxi from there.

 are clearly marked and run frequently. Many central bus stops have boards showing routes. On buses, especially at night, look out for landmarks as street names are hard to see. Commuter services, known as the

but not underground, leave from the Central station; they have been extended to serve the

. Integrated bus-metrô routes and tickets are explained in a leaflet issued by

. Trolleybuses run in the city centre. Taxis are plentiful; fares double on Sunday and during holidays.

The city centre consists of three sections: Recife proper, Santo Antônio and São José, and Boa Vista and Santo Amaro. The first two are on islands formed by the rivers Capibaribe, Beberibe and Pina, while the third is made into an island by the Canal Tacaruna, which separates it from the mainland. The centre is always very busy by day; the crowds and narrow streets, especially in the Santo Antônio district, can make it a confusing city to walk around. But this adds to its charm. This is one of the few cities in Brazil where it is possible to get lost and chance upon a shady little square or imposing colonial church or mansion. Recife has the main dock area, with the commercial buildings associated with it. South of the centre is the residential and beach district of

, reached by bridge across the Bacia do Pina.

, the old capital, is only 7 km to the north . Although the streets are generally too full to present danger it is wise to be vigilant where the streets are quiet. Always take a taxi after dark if you are walking alone or in a pair.

The main office for

, www.empetur.com.br

, is between Recife and Olinda. There are other branches in Boa Viagem, and at the airport; they cannot book hotels, but the helpful staff speak English and can offer leaflets and decent maps.

Opportunistic theft is unfortunately common in the streets of Recife and Olinda (especially on the streets up to Alto da Sé). Keep a good hold on bags and cameras, and do not wear a watch. Prostitution is reportedly common in Boa Viagem, so choose nightclubs with care.

Recife's architecture is far less celebrated than its pretty neighbour, Olinda, but it retains some very attractive buildings. Rua da Aurora, which watches over the Capibaribe river, is lined with stately palladian and neoclassical buildings. The islands to the south, over the filigree of bridges, are dotted with imposing churches and surprisingly lavish civic structures, especially around the Praça da República. The city began with the Dutch and the twin forts on the island today known as

(Old Recife). The

is now an army museum. The

, was built by the Dutch in 1630, seven years before Maurice of Nassau sacked and burned Olinda. The two forts controlled access to the port at the northern and southern entrances respectively. Within Forte das Cinco Pontas is the

Recife is replete with churches. The most famous is the

, a towering baroque building with a beautiful painted interior, overlooking one of the city's best-preserved colonial squares. The area has been renovated and is filled with little shops, restaurants and bars, and nominated as a national historical monument. There are sporadic music and poetry shows evenings from Wednesday to Sunday. Also worth visiting is the 18th-century

(1695-1710 and 19th century), is one of the finest baroque buildings in northeast Brazil and is another national monument. The lavish façade conceals a gorgeous gilt-painted interior with ceiling panels by Manuel de Jesus Pinto. The

About a kilometre to the west of the fort around the

is a lively bar area with many live music venues thronging with a bohemian crowd. This area is to Recife what Lapa is to Rio and remains at the centre of the city's musical boom, which begun with mangue beat . This style of music was named in homage to the mangroves that fill Recife's rivers and canals, and has spawned artists like Otto, Siba and DJ Dolores. Be sure to take a taxi there and back for safety.

Following Avenida Rui Barbosa west of the centre, the

About 7 km west of the centre, the

, containing ceramic figurines (including some by Mestre Alino and Zé Caboclo); the

, on the history and technology of sugar production, with models of colonial mills and collections of antique sugar bowls; the

; the

; and the modern museum of popular remedies,

correct one, with 'Rui Barbosa' posted in window, as there are two) from outside the Banorte building near the post office on Guararapes, but it is much easier to take a taxi.

South of the centre

The

, www.brennand.com.br, is a Dali-esque fantasy garden and museum preserving hundreds of monumental ceramic sculptures by Latin America's most celebrated ceramic artist, Francisco Brennand. Enormous snake penises in hob- nailed boots are set in verdant lawns; surrealist egret heads look out over a Burle Marx garden from 10-m-high tiled walls; haunting chess-piece figures in top hats gaze at tinkling fountains. The museum has a very good air-conditioned restaurant and gift shop. There is no public transport here so take a taxi from Recife.

The Brennands are one of the wealthiest old-money families in Brazil and Ricardo Brennand - as if not to be outdone by his brother - has his own museum 10 minutes' taxi ride away. The

, is a priceless collection of European and Brazilian art (including the largest conglomeration of Dutch-Brazilian landscapes in the world), books, manuscripts and medieval weapons housed in a fake Norman castle with its own moat and giant swimming pool.

This is the main residential and hotel quarter, currently being developed at the northern end of town. The 8-km promenade lined with high-rise buildings commands a striking view of the Atlantic, but the beach is backed by a busy road, crowded at weekends and not very clean. During the January breeding season, sharks come close to the shore. You can go fishing on

at Boa Viagem at low tide. The main

has a good market at weekends.

To get there from the centre, take any bus marked 'Boa Viagem'; from Nossa Senhora do Carmo, take buses marked 'Piedade', 'Candeias' or 'Aeroporto', which run along Avenida Domingos Ferreira, two blocks parallel to the beach, all the way to Praça Boa Viagem (at Avenida Boa Viagem 500). To get to the centre, take a bus marked 'CDU' or 'Setubal' from Avenida Domingos Ferreira.