Igarassu, Itamaracá in Brazil

Igarassu

Some 39 km north of Recife on the road to João Pessoa, Igarassu has the first church built in Brazil,
SS Cosme e Damião
(1535) and the convent of
Santo Antônio
, a beautiful baroque building with some very fine gilt work and
azulejos
.

Itamaracá

North of Igarassu the road passes through coconut plantations to
Itapissuma
, where there is a bridge to
Itamaracá
island. According to the locals, this is where Adam and Eve spent their holidays (so does everyone else on Sunday now). It has the old Dutch
Forte Orange
, built in 1631; an interesting penal settlement with gift shops, built round the 1747 sugar estate buildings of Engenho São João, which still have much of the old machinery, charming villages and colonial churches, as well as some fine, wide beaches. At one of them,
Praia do Forte Orange
,
Ibama
has a centre for the study and preservation of manatees,
Centro Nacional de Conservação e Manejo de Sirênios
or
Peixe-boi
.

There are pleasant trips by
jangada
from Praia do Forte Orange to
Ilha Coroa do Avião
, a recently formed sandy island, which has rustic beach bars and a research station for the development of wildlife and migratory birds. The beaches of
Sossego
and
Enseada
also have some bars but are quiet and relatively undiscovered. The crossing is 3 km north of Itamaracá town; recommended for sun worshippers.

Further north again, two hours from Recife by bus, is
Pontas de Pedra
, an old fishing village with a nice beach, lots of bars and opportunities for fishing and diving.

At the Pernambuco-Paraíba border, a 27-km dirt road goes to the fishing village of
Pitimbu
, with
jangadas
, surf fishing, lobster fishing and lobster-pot making. There are no tourist facilities but camping is possible and food is available from
Bar do Jangadeiro
. To get here, take a bus from Goiana, US$1.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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