The route to Diamantina in Brazil

Conceição do Mato Dentro and the Tabuleiro waterfall

A newly paved road climbs into the hills from Serra do Cipo town to

Conceição do Mato Dentro

, a sleepy 17th-century town nestled in the rugged folds of the

Serra do Espinhaço

. These mountains run from Central Minas all the way up to the Chapada Diamantina in Bahia and beyond. The surrounding countryside has well-preserved

cerrado

forest and bushland and is gushing with waterfalls. The most spectacular of all is Brazil's third tallest waterfall, the

Cachoeira do Tabuleiro

, Conceição, a sliver of water that plunges some 273 m from a

cerrado

-covered escarpment into a crystal-clear pool. The waterfall lies in the

Parque Natural Municpal Ribeirão do Campo

(Parque do Tabuleiro), which preserves the falls and around 3000 ha of

cerrado

. There are some 1700 species of vascular plants here, including 150 very rare orchids, alongside similar bird species to the Serra do Cipó,

Serro

This unspoiled colonial town sits on the banks of the Rio Jequitinhonha in the heart of lush hilly dairy farm country dotted with

cerrado

forest and waterfalls. The town preserves many pretty, crumbling churches and leafy squares and the locals make some of the best Minas Gerais cheese,

queijo mineiro

, in Brazil. This watery, milky putty is adored by all Brazilians (though foreigners often wonder what all the fuss is about) and is traditionally eaten with guava jam. Serro makes a good stop-off on the route south or north. It receives very few visitors and you will feel like a curiosity. There are a few buildings worth visiting. The prettiest church is

Santa Rita

, on a hill in the centre of town, reached by a long line of steps. On the main Praça João Pinheiro, by the bottom of the steps, is the arcaded

Nossa Senhora do Carmo

, with original paintings on the ceiling and in the choir. The town has two large mansions:

Barão de Diamantina

, is in ruins, but

Barão do Serro

, across the river, is beautifully restored and used as the town hall and Casa de Cultura. There are old mine entrances in the hillside behind the courtyard. The

Museu Regional Casa dos Ottoni

, is an 18th-century house now containing furniture and everyday objects from the region. The Ottoni brothers, who were born here, were prominent naval officers turned politicians in the 19th century. The even sleepier and prettier villages of

São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras

and

Milho Verde

are a short bus ride away in the surrounding hills and are well worth a visit.

Ins and outs

Conceição do Mato Dentro and Serro are served by at least eight buses daily from Belo Horizonte, via the Serra do Cipó, on a newly paved road. Both towns also have bus connections with Diamantina several times daily. There are plenty of accommodation options. For information on Conceição and the Tabuleiro waterfall contact the

Secretária do Turismo

, www.conceicaodomato dentro.com.br

. Their office lies in the centre and the town is tiny. The park itself should be visited with a guide, available through the Secretária or hotels in the town. Take walking shoes, swimming gear and water. For information on Serro, São Gonçalo and Milho Verde, contact the

Secretária de Turismo

, www.serro.mg.gov.br

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF

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