São Tomé das Letras in Brazil

São Tomé das Letras, 35 km from Três Corações, is a beautiful hilltop town which is very popular at weekends. The streets were once lined with houses made of local stone, giving the town a distinctive architectural identity, but its popularity as a tourist destination has seen many of these replaced or overshadowed by ugly concrete buildings and São Tomé is sadly beginning to lose its charm.

Rock paintings found in caves nearby have been dated to about 2000 BC. Inscriptions in the caves have lent the town a mystical reputation, attracting new-age travellers. Many believe it is a good vantage point for seeing UFOs (some claim that the inscriptions are extraterrestrial in origin), and that there are places with special energies. The
Carimbado cave
is rich in myths and legends, such as that its passages lead to an underground civilization and that its powers form an energy source linked to Machu Picchu in Peru.

The Shangri-lá rapid, which is a beautiful spot, is also called the
Vale do Maytréia
. The shops reflect this atmosphere and the hotels are classified by UFOs instead of stars. Whatever you think of it, São Tomé is certainly an unusual place.

Ins and outs

There are daily buses from Três Corações; take the one that leaves Três Corações at dawn to see the mist in the valleys. If driving to the town, take care at the unsigned road junctions. After the pavement ends, at the next main junction, turn right.

At 1291 m it is one of the five highest places in Brazil. The average maximum temperature is 26°C and the minimum is 14°C. The rainy season is October to March. There is a
tourist office
 for information.

Background

A quarry town since the beginning of the 20th century, there is evidence of the industry everywhere you look. Settlement in colonial times dates from the mid- to late-18th century when the
bandeirantes
from São Paulo moved into this area, displacing the indigenous inhabitants. Even before the 20th-century 'alternative' arrivals, the hill acquired the following legend: at the end of the 18th century, an escaped slave hid in a cave for a long time. A finely dressed man appeared, asking him why he was living there. On hearing the slave's story, the man gave him a message on a piece of paper which, on presentation to his master, would earn the slave forgiveness. The slave duly did as the man said and the master, impressed by the writing and the paper, went to the cave to seek the mysterious man for himself. He found no one, but instead a statue of São Thomé (St Thomas). The master therefore built a chapel at
the site, which was replaced by the Igreja Matriz in 1784, now standing beside the cave. The inscriptions, in red, can just about be seen in the cave; they are the 'Letras' of the town's name.

Sights

The town is almost at the top of the hill. Behind it are rocky outcrops on which are the
Pyramid House
, the
Cruzeiro
(cross) at 1430 m, with good 360-degree views, the
Pedra da Bruxa
and paths for walking or, in some parts, scrambling.

The bus stops at the main
praça
, where there is the frescoed 18th-century
Igreja Matriz
beside the fenced cave. A second church, the 18th-century
Igreja das Pedras
(Nossa Senhora do Rosário) is on a
praça
to the left as you enter town (Rua Ernestina Maria de Jesus Peixoto). It is constructed in the same style as many of the charming old-style buildings, with slabs of the local stone laid on top of each other without mortar.

Tours from São Tomé das Letras

In the surrounding hills are many caves:
Sobradinho
, 12 km;
Carimbado
, 5 km;
Gruta do Feijão
, a short walk from town;
Gruta da Bruxa
, 6 km. Seven waterfalls are also close by, including:
Cachoeira de Eubiose
, 4 km;
Véu de Noiva
, 12 km;
Paraíso
, near Véu de Noiva;
Vale das Borboletas da Lua
, 8 km; and
do Flávio
, 6 km. There are also rapids such as
Shangri-lá
, 17 km, and
Vale dos Gnomos
, near the Vale das Borboletas. Some of these places make a good hike from the town, but you can also visit several in a day on an organized tour.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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