Mariana in Brazil
Mariana is the oldest of the colonial mining towns in Minas Gerais, founded by bandeirantes a few years before Ouro Preto, on 16 July 1696. At first, when it was little more than a collection of huts, it was called Arraial de Nossa Senhora do Carmo. But by 1711 it had become the town of Vila de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, and by the mid-18th century it had grown to be the most important administrative centre in the newly created Capitania de São Paulo e Minas do Ouro. Its name was changed to Mariana in honour of the wife of Dom João V, Dona Maria Ana of Austria. It retains many fine colonial buildings, most of them constructed in the second half of the 18th century. The artist Mestre Athayde was born here, as was the Inconfidênte Cláudio Manuel da Costa. The town was declared a national monument in 1945.
Unlike its more famous neighbour, Ouro Preto, in whose shadow the town tends to sit, Mariana has remained a working mining centre. For many years the
Companhia do Vale do Rio Doce
(
CVRD
), the state mining company, had major operations here and provided a
great deal of assistance for the restoration of the colonial heritage. Since CVRD's concentration on its new investments at Carajás, and its subsequent privatization, there have been
doubts about its commitment to mining in Mariana and to the town itself.
Buses from Ouro Preto and Belo Horizonte stop at the new
rodoviária
, out of town on the main road, then at the
Posto Mariana
, before heading back to the centre at Praça Tancredo Neves. Many buses seem to go only to the
posto
(petrol station) above the town, but it's a long walk from the centre.
The
tourist office
, www.mari ana.mg.gov.br
, can organize guides and has a map and free monthly booklet,
Mariana Agenda Cultural
, packed with information.
Mariana Turismo
The historic centre of the town slopes gently uphill from the river and the
Praça Tancredo Neves
, where buses from Ouro Preto stop. The first street parallel with the Praça Tancredo Neves is Rua Direita, which is lined with beautiful, two-storey 18th-century houses with tall colonial windows and balconies. The
Casa do Barão de Pontal
Rua Direita leads to the
Praça da Sé
, on which stands the cathedral,
Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Assunção
. Before Vila de Nossa Senhora do Carmo became a town, a chapel dating from 1703 stood on this spot. In various stages it was expanded and remodelled until its completion in 1760. The portal and the lavabo in the sacristy are by Aleijadinho and the painting in the beautiful interior and side altars is by Manoel Rabello de Sousa. Also in the cathedral is a wooden German organ (1701), made by Arp Schnitger, which was a gift to the first diocese of the Capitania de Minas do Ouro in 1747. It was restored in 1984 after some 50 years of silence. Concerts are held in the cathedral including regular
organ concerts
.
Turning up Rua Frei Durão, on the right is the
Museu Arquidiocesano
Casa da Intendência/Casa de Cultura
esteiro
(flattened bamboo) ceilings.
The large
Praça Gomes Freire
was where horses would be tied up (there is an old drinking trough on one side) and where festivals were held. Now it has pleasant gardens. On the south side is the
Palácio Arquiepiscopal
, while on the north side is the
Casa do Conde de Assumar
, home of the governor of the capitania from 1717 to 1720; it later became the bishop's palace.
Praça Minas Gerais
has one of the finest groups of colonial buildings in Brazil. In the middle is the
Pelourinho
, the stone monument to justice at which slaves used to be beaten. The fine
São Francisco church
At right angles to São Francisco is
Nossa Senhora do Carmo
,
built 1784, with steatite carvings, Athayde paintings, and chinoiserie panelling. Some consider its exterior to be the most beautiful in Mariana. Unfortunately this church was damaged by fire in 1999. Across Rua Dom Silvério is the
Casa da Cámara e Cadéia
(1768), once the Prefeitura Municipal. It is a superb example of civic colonial construction.
On Rua Dom Silvério the
Colégio Providência
at No 61 was the first college for boarding students in Minas Gerais. Also on this street is the
Igreja da Arquiconfraria
and, nearing the top of the hill, the
Chafariz de São Pedro
. On the Largo de São Pedro is the church of
São Pedro dos Clérigos
, founded by Manuel da Cruz, first bishop of the town (1764), one of the few elliptical churches in Minas Gerais. It is unadorned, although there is a painting by Athayde,
A Entrega do Menino Jesus a Santo Antônio
. The cedar altar was made by José Pedro Aroca. Look for the cockerel, carved in memory of the biblical verses about St Peter betraying Christ before the cock has crowed three times. Ask to see the view from the bell tower.
The
Capela de Santo Antônio
, wonderfully simple and the oldest in town, is some distance from the centre on Rua Rosário Velho. Overlooking the city from the north, with a good viewpoint, is the church of
Nossa Senhora do Rosário
,
dating back to 1752, with work by Athayde and showing Moorish influence.
Outside the centre to the west, but within easy walking distance, is the
Seminário Menor
, now the Instituto de Ciencias Históricas e Sociais of the federal university.
South of the river, Avenida Getúlio Vargas leads to the new
Prefeitura Municipal
. It passes the
Ginásio Poliesportivo
and, across the avenue, the
railway station
. This is a romantic building with a clock tower, but it is rapidly falling into disrepair.
The small village of
Antônio Pereira
, 24 km north of Mariana, is where imperial topaz is mined. Tours can be made of an interesting cave with stalactites. Local children will show you around for a small fee.
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