Congonhas do Campo in Brazil
In the 18th century, Congonhas was a mining town. Today, in addition to the business brought by the tourists and pilgrims who come to the sanctuary, it is known for its handicrafts. There is little need to stay in Congonhas as the town's main sight, Aleijadinho's beautiful church and chapel-lined stairway, can be seen in a few hours between bus changes. Leave your bags at the information desk in the bus station.
Getting thereThe
rodoviária
is 1.5 km outside town and you can get a bus to the centre. In town, the bus stops in Praça JK from where you can walk up Praça Dr Mário Rodrigues Pereira, cross the little bridge, then go up Rua Bom Jesus and Rua Aleijadinho to the Praça da Basílica. A bus marked 'Basílica' runs from the
rodoviária
to Bom Jesus or you can get a taxi
.The great pilgrimage church and its Via Sacra dominate the town. The idea of building a sanctuary belonged to a prospector, Feliciano Mendes, who promised to erect a cross and chapel in thanks to Bom Jesus after he had been cured of a serious illness. The inspiration for his devotion came from two sources in Portugal, the cult of Bom Jesus at Braga (near where Mendes was born) and the church of Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, near Porto. Work began in 1757, funded by Mendes' own money and alms he raised. The church was finished in 1771, six years after Mendes' death, and the fame that the sanctuary had acquired led to its development by the most famous architects, artists and sculptors of the time as a Sacro Monte. This involved the construction of six linked chapels, or
pasos
(1802-1818), which lead up to a terrace and courtyard before the church.
There is a wide view of the country from the church terrace, below which are six small chapels set in an attractive sloping area with grass, cobblestones and palms. Each chapel shows scenes with life-size Passion figures carved by Aleijadinho and his pupils in cedar wood. In order of ascent they are: the chapel of the Last Supper; the chapel of the Mount of Olives; the chapel of the betrayal of Christ; the chapel of the flagellation and the crowning with thorns; the chapel of Jesus carrying the Cross; and the chapel of Christ being nailed to the Cross.
On the terrace stand the 12 prophets sculpted by Aleijadinho 1800-1805; these are thought of as his masterpieces. Carved in soapstone with a dramatic sense of movement, they constitute one of the finest works of art of their period in the world. Note how Aleijadinho adapted the biblical characters to his own cultural references. The prophets
are sculpted wearing leather boots, as all important men in his time would have done. Daniel, who entered the lion's den, is represented with the artist's own conception of a lion, never having seen one himself: a large, maned cat with a face rather like a Brazilian monkey. Similarly, the whale that accompanies Jonah is an idiosyncratic interpretation. Each statue has a prophetic text carved with it. The statues “combine in a kind of sacred ballet whose movements only seem unco- ordinated; once these sculptures cease to be considered as isolated units, they take on full significance as part of a huge composition brought to life by an inspired genius.” (
Iberian-American Baroque
, edited by Henri Stierlin) The beauty of the whole is enhanced by the combination of church, Via Sacra and landscape over which the prophets preside.
Inside the church, there are paintings by Athayde and the heads of four sainted popes (Gregory, Jerome, Ambrose and Augustine) sculpted by Aleijadinho for the reliquaries on the high altar. Other artists involved were João Nepomuceno Correia e Castro, who painted the scenes of the life and passion of Christ in the nave and around the high altar, João Antunes de Carvalho, who carved the high altar, and Jerônimo Félix and Manuel Coelho, who carved the crossing altars of Santo Antônio and São Francisco de Paula. Despite the ornate carving, the overall effect of the paintwork is almost muted and naturalistic, with much use of blues, greys and pinks. Lamps are suspended on chains from the mouths of black dragons. To the left of the church, through the third door in the building alongside the church, is the Room of Miracles, which contains photographs and thanks for miracles performed.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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