Laguna and Parque Estadual da Serra do Tabuleiro in Brazil
The
Parque Estadual da Serra do Tabuleiro
, just south of the BR-282, is the largest protected area in Santa Catarina, covering 87,405 ha, or nearly 1% of the state. Apart from its varied and luxuriant flora, which is home to many birds and animals, it is also important to Florianópolis for its water supply. There is a small
reserve
Continuing south, two beaches worth a stop are Pinheira and Guarda do Embaú, which you get to by crossing a river in a canoe. The surfing is excellent here; Guarda in particular is a favourite spot of surfers from Rio and São Paulo (except during the fishing season 15 May-15 July). Garopaba, 89 km south of Florianópolis, is a village of 11,000, which swells to 100,000 during the holidays. Its indigenous Carijó name 'Y-Gara-Paba' means 'much water, many fish and many hills'. There is a simple colonial church and a sandy coast.
Silveira, 3 km east, is considered one of Brazil's finest surfing spots. Swimming can be risky, though, because of the surf and sudden drops in the ocean floor. There is good fishing for tainha, lobster, anchovy and other varieties. Praia do Rosa, 18 km south, is a 3.5-km beach with good swimming, fishing, diving and pleasant coastal walks. It is also one of Brazil's prime whale-watching sites, with southern right whales coming to the bay to calve between June and November. The headquarters of the Baleia Franca project is Pousada Vila Sol e Mar, www.vidasolemar.com.br, which has cabins for rent and a youth hostel . Dolphin-watching and birdwatching trips are available year round.
The small fishing port of Laguna in southern Santa Catarina (124 km south of Florianópolis), founded in 1676, was a focal point of defence against Spanish invasions and still retains vestiges of its turbulent past. These days Laguna serves mainly as a holiday resort, perched between the ocean and a chain of three lakes. In 1839, Laguna was the capital of the Juliana Republic, a short-lived separatist movement led by Italian idealist Guiseppe Garibáldi. At that time he met a devoted lover, Ana Maria de Jesus Ribeiro, who followed him into battle, was taken prisoner, escaped and rejoined Garibáldi at Vacaria. Their first son, Menotti, was born in Rio Grande do Sul, but the family moved to Montevideo in 1841, where they lived in poverty. They later moved to Argentina and then to Italy, where they fought for the unification of the peninsula. Ana Maria (or Anita) died near Ravenna in 1849 while they were fleeing to Switzerland from the Austrian army. She became a heroine in both Brazil and Italy and there are monuments to her in Rome, Ravenna, Porto Alegre, Belo Horizonte, Florianópolis, Juiz da Fora, Tubarão and Laguna. At Laguna is the
Anita Garibáldi Museum
, containing documents, furniture and her personal effects.
Laguna's well-preserved historic centre boasts many attractive colonial buildings but lacks good accommodation. Resort-style hotels, popular with families, can be found at Mar Grosso, Laguna's beach. This heavily developed stretch of sand is 2 km from the centre, but you'll find nicer beaches and dunes 16 km away (accessible by ferry and road) at Cavo de Santa Marta.
Also from Laguna, it's possible to take a bus to Farol; a beautiful ride that involves crossing the mouth of the Lagoa Santo Antônio by ferry - look out for fishermen aided by botos (dolphins). Here is a fishing village with good surf, deserted beaches and a lighthouse, the Farol de Santa Marta. This is the largest lighthouse in South America with the third largest view in the world. It was built by the French in 1890 of stone, sand and whale oil. Guided tours are available. There are countless inexpensive pousadas in the village, as well as several campsites.
Laguna's well-preserved historic centre boasts many attractive colonial buildings but lacks good accommodation. Resort-style hotels, popular with families, can be found at Mar Grosso, Laguna's beach. This heavily developed stretch of sand is 2 km from the centre, but you'll find nicer beaches and dunes 16 km away (accessible by ferry and road) at Cavo de Santa Marta.
Also from Laguna, it's possible to take a bus to Farol; a beautiful ride that involves crossing the mouth of the Lagoa Santo Antônio by ferry - look out for fishermen aided by botos (dolphins). Here is a fishing village with good surf, deserted beaches and a lighthouse, the Farol de Santa Marta. This is the largest lighthouse in South America with the third largest view in the world. It was built by the French in 1890 of stone, sand and whale oil. Guided tours are available. There are countless inexpensive pousadas in the village, as well as several campsites.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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