Parques Nacional Aparados da Serra and Nacional da Serra Geral in Brazil
This spectacular mountain range some 170 km south of Florianópolis rises steeply from the southern Santa Catarina coast near Praia Grande, ascending from sea level to almost 2000 m in just over 20 km. It is cut by dozens of majestic canyons formed when the African and American plates pulled apart ripping great gashes in the hills. Each of these canyons has its own microclimate, ranging from verdant and mossy to dry and cool. The canyons and the rugged, semi-wild country that surrounds them offers some of the best hiking in southern Brazil. The serra is protected by two contiguous national parks: Parque Nacional Aparados da Serra and Parque Nacional de Serra Geral.
In the wet season, the canyons are lush with an abundance of ferns, lichens and mosses
and in the misty mornings it's common to hear the eerie roar of red howler monkeys. Birds and butterflies are abundant, including spectaculars like the red-breasted toucan, endemics
like the vinaceous Amazon (a chunky green parrot with a bloody beak) and rarities like the
red-legged seriema, which looks a little like a wispy secretary bird in scarlet tights. Mammals include howler and brown capuchin monkeys, ocelot, grey foxes, agouti, paca and armadillos.
This park is famous for its much-photographed
Itaimbezinho canyon
, some 8 km long and 720 m deep and fringed with subtropical forest. Two waterfalls cascade 350 m into a stone plunge pool in the base that spills over into the silver sliver of the Rio do Boi, which winds its narrow way along the canyon bottom. A steep rocky path leads to river from the canyon rim, but it's a tough, hair-raising walk that shouldn't be undertaken lightly - or without a guide. It's also possible to do a three-day trek along the banks of the Rio Boi itself, or a series of hikes along the upper rim of the canyon and ultimately to the beach at Praia Grande, around 20 km away.
This park has a similar landscape to Aparados da Serra but even deeper gorges. The most impressive are Malacara and Fortaleza; the latter an astounding 1170 m deep. There are spectacular views to the coast from the top of both and wild, remote hiking.
Ins and outsIf you plan to hike in the
serra
it is best to go on an organized trip with
Brazil Ecojourneys
, http://brazilecojourneys.com. However, it is possible to visit independently. The most convenient base is
Cambará do Sul
, www.cambaradosul.tur.br. The Aparadas da Serra park entrance is 18 km from Cambara and there are numerous
pousadas
, some of which organize trips into the mountains. The best time to visit is June to August when skies are clear but it can be very cold;
Cambará do Sul can be reached from
Praia Grande, Caxias, São Francisco de Paula, São José dos Ausentes and
Porto Alegre. Buses run from the rodoviária in Cambará do Sul, with Consórcio São Marcos/União,
to Criciúma stopping at the entrance to the park, there is no bus on Sunday. To return,
flag down the bus to Cambará from Praia Grande which passes the park
entrance daily. Temperatures on the high peaks fall well below zero and it can even snow. Rain is heaviest in April, May and September.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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