Rota do Sol, Tibau do Sul and Pipa in Brazil
South of Natal, the Rota do Sol/Litoral Sul (RN-063) follows the coastline for some 55 km and provides access to beaches south of Ponta Negra. From here the coast becomes more remote and long curves of white sand backed by multicoloured sandstone cliffs and sweeping dunes, fragments of Atlantic forest alive with rare birds, black tea lagoons and bays filled with dolphins, make this one of the most popular stretches in the northeast. Thankfully development is small scale and it still feels relaxed (outside high season). Several species of turtles, including giant leatherbacks, still nest here, although numbers are declining as the popularity of beach buggy tourism grows. The best place to stay along this stretch of coast is Pipa, a lively little town with good pousadas and restaurants.
Ins and outsBuses run along Litoral Sul from both Natal's bus stations, stopping at
Pirangi
and
Tabatinga
; there are six daily buses to
Tibau
and
Pipa
(two to three hours).
From João Pessoa in Paraíba you will have to change at Goaianinha on the main road to Natal. This route is also run by
combis
, which leave when full up and cost about 20% more than the buses.
Combis
connect Pipa and Tibau.
Praia do Cotovelo
, 21 km from Natal, offers a view of the Barreira do Inferno rocket- launching centre to the north. At its southern end it has some cliffs and coconut palms where camping is possible. Pirangi do Norte
, 25 km from Natal (30 minutes by bus) has calm waters and is popular for watersports and offshore bathing (500 m out) when natural pools form between the reefs. Nearby is the world's largest
cajueiro
(cashew tree); branches springing from a single trunk cover 7300 sq m. The snack bar by the tree has schedules of buses back to Natal. Lacemakers offer bargains for clothing and tableware. Pirangi has a lively
Carnaval
.
Búzios
, 35 km from Natal, has a pleasant setting with vegetation-covered dunes and coconut palms. The water is mostly calm and clear, making it good for bathing.
Barra de Tabatinga
, 45 km from Natal, is surrounded by cliffs used for parasailing. Waves are strong here, making it a popular surfing beach. A new 'shark park' complete with resident biologist is its latest attraction.
Camurupim
and
Barreta
, 46 km and 55 km from Natal respectively, have reefs near the
shore, where bathing pools form at low tide; this area has many restaurants specializing in shrimp. Beyond Barreta is the long, pristine beach of
Malenbar
or
Guaraíra
, accessible
on foot or on a 10-minute boat ride across the Rio Tibau.
The little fishing town of
Tibau do Sul
has cobbled streets and sits high on a cliff between surf beaches and the manatee-filled Lago de Guaraíra. Boat trips can be arranged from here to the
lago
or to see dolphins in the calm waters offshore. Although most tourists head straight for Pipa, which is more developed, the beach
barracas
in Tibau are lively at night with
forró
and MPB. Natal's finest restaurants are also here and there are a handful of decent
pousadas
in town.
From Tibau, a series of white-sand crescents, separated by rocky headlands and backed by high cliffs crowned with coconut groves and remnant coastal forest, stretches south to
Pipa
. This is one of Natal's most enchanting little tourist towns, whose mix of local fishermen and settlers from all over Brazil has formed an eclectic alternative community. There are excellent
pousadas
and restaurants in all price ranges and the nightlife is animated. The town is becoming increasingly popular and the number of people can feel overwhelming during Carnaval and New Year.
The town beach is somewhat developed, but there are plenty of others nearby.
Praia dos Golfinhos
to the south and
Madeiro
beyond it have only a few hotels and
Praia do Amor
to the north is surrounded by cliffs and has reasonable surf. Access to the shore is down the steps built by the few clifftop hotels or by walking along the beach from Pipa at low tide. There are tours to see dolphins from US$10 per person and also around the mangrove-lined
Lagoa Guaraíra
at Tibau, particularly beautiful at sunset.
Just north of town, on a 70-m-high dune, is the
Santuário Ecológico de Pipa
, www.pipa.com.br/santuarioecologico, a 60-ha park created in 1986 to conserve the
Mata Atlântica
forest. There are several trails and lookouts over the cliffs, which afford an excellent view of the ocean and dolphins. Although larger animals like cats and howler monkeys are long gone, this is one of the few areas in the state where important indicator bird species, such as guans, can be found.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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