Natal in Brazil

The state capital, located on a peninsula between the Rio Potengi and the Atlantic Ocean, is pleasant enough but has few sights of interest. Most visitors head for the beaches to the north and south. During the Second World War, the city was, somewhat bizarrely, the second largest US base outside the United States and housed 8000 American pilots.

Getting there

Flights arrive at

Augusto Severo International Airport

, from Belém, Brasília, Fernando de Noronha, Fortaleza, Recife, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador and São Paulo. Buses run to the old

rodoviária

near the centre, from where there are connections to Ponta Negra on route 54 or 56 amongst others, or take the 'Aeroporto' bus to the city centre and then bus Nos 54 or 46 south to Ponta Negra.

Interstate buses arrive at the new

Rodoviária Cidade do Sol

. Alternatively, take the bus to Ponta Negra. This passes close to the hotel strip whilst not taking Avenida Erivan Franca (the street that runs along the seafront). For Praia do Meio beach and the Via Costeira take the bus and alight at Praia do Meio for an easy walk to any of the hotels on that beach or Praia dos Artistas. Or take any of the Via Costeira buses.

Buses from the south pass Ponta Negra first, where you can ask to alight. The city buses 'Cidade de Esperança Avenida 9', 'Areia Preta via Petrópolis' or 'Via Tirol' run from the new

rodoviária

to the centre. It is also possible to travel between Natal and Fortaleza by beach buggy: an exciting trip but not a very environmentally responsible one as buggies have seriously eroded the coast.

Getting around

Unlike most Brazilian buses, in Natal you get on the bus at the front and get off at the back. The old rodoviária is a central point where many bus lines converge. Buses to some of the nearby beaches also leave from here. Taxis are expensive compared to other cities (eg four times the price of Recife). Buses are the best option. Route 54 and 46 connect Ponta Negra with the city, the former via Via Costeira and the old rodoviária.

Tourist information

The state tourist office, SETUR www.setur.rn.gov.br and www.rosaleao.com.br/clientes/setur, covers the whole of Rio Grande do Norte state, although their information and English is very limited, and the office is not conveniently located. However, there are tourist information booths at the airport, the bus station, on Avenida Presidente Café Filho on Praia das Artistas beach and Erivan Franca on Ponta Negra, all open daily 0800-2100. See www.nataltrip.com, www.natal.com.br and www.rn.gov.br for more information.

Sights

No-one comes to Natal for sightseeing, but the city is not without culture. The oldest part is the

Ribeira

along the riverfront, where a programme of renovation has been started. This can be seen on Rua Chile and in public buildings restored in vivid art deco fashion, such as the

Teatro Alberto Maranhão

, built 1898-1904, and the

Prefeitura

. The

Cidade Alta

, or Centro, is the main commercial centre and Avenida Rio Branco its principal artery. The main square is made up by the adjoining

praças

João Maria

André de Albuquerque

João Tibúrcio

and

7 de Setembro

. At Praça André de Albuquerque is the old

cathedral

(inaugurated 1599, restored 1996). The modern cathedral is on Avenida Deodoro. The church of

Santo Antônio

dates from 1766, and has a fine, carved wooden altar and a sacred art museum.

The

Museu Câmara Cascudo

, www.mcc.ufrn.br, has exhibits on

umbanda

rituals, archaeological digs, the sugar, leather and petroleum industries; there is also a dead whale.

The 16th-century

Forte dos Reis Magos

, is at Praia do Forte, the tip of Natal's peninsula. Between the fort and the city is a military installation. Walk along the beach to the fort for good views (or go on a tour, or by taxi).

At Mãe Luiza is a

lighthouse

with beautiful views of Natal and surrounding beaches (take a city bus marked 'Mãe Luiza' and get the key from the house next door).

South to Ponta Negra

The urban beaches of

Praia do Meio

Praia dos Artistas

and

Praia de Areia Preta

have recently been cleaned up. The first two are sheltered by reefs and good for windsurfing. The

beachside promenade,

Via Costeira

, runs south beneath the towering sand dunes of

Parque das Dunas

(access restricted to protect the dunes), joining the city to the neighbourhood

of Ponta Negra. A cycle path parallels this road and provides great views of the coastline.

The vibrant and pretty

Ponta Negra

, 12 km south of the centre, is justifiably the most popular beach and has many hotels. The northern end is good for surfing, while the southern end is calmer and suitable for swimming.

Morro do Careca

, a 120-m-high sand dune, surrounded by vegetation, sits at its far end. It is crowded on weekends and holidays. The poorly lit northern reaches can be unsafe after dark.

Excursions from Natal

The beautiful beaches around Natal - some of which are developed, others are deserted and accessible only by trails - are good all year round for day trips or longer stays. Those north of the city are known as the

Litoral Norte

, where there are extensive cashew plantations; those to the south form the

Litoral Sul

. The areas closest to the city are built-up and get busy during the summer holidays (December to Carnaval), when dune- buggy traffic can become excessive.

Popular tours from Natal include boat trips on the

Rio Potengi

, along the nearby beaches of the Litoral Sul, and to

Barra do Cunhaú

, 86 km south of Natal. The latter goes through mangroves and visits an island and a salt mine,

Passeio Ecológico Cunhaú,

www.barradocunhau.com.br

. Other popular pastimes include buggy tours, marlin fishing (11 km from shore, said by some to be the best in Brazil) and microlight flights over the Rio Potengi and sand dunes north of Natal.

The

Centro de Lançamento da Barreira do Inferno

, www.clbi.cta.br, is the launching centre for Brazil's space programme.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF

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