Genipabu and the northern coast of Natal, Brazil

The coast north of Natal is known for its many impressive, light-coloured sand dunes, some reaching a staggering 50 m in height.

, a weekend resort for the Natal middle classes, is the most famous of these and is only a very short bus ride from the city. The country beyond the resort is well off the tourist trail, with vast long beaches backed by multicoloured cliffs, dunes and salt lakes. It is dramatic terrain, so much so that it has been used as the backdrop to numerous biblical films. Three crosses stand over the cliffs at

, left there by one of the most recent productions,

. The best way to experience the majesty of the coastal landscape is to walk and listen to the wind on the sand. Buggy tourism has led to the degradation of many of the northeast's dunes. Fixed dunes are protected and should not be disturbed, but shifting dunes can be visited by buggy, camel or horse. Ask locally for advice.

A 25-minute ferry crossing on the Rio Potengi or a 16-km drive from Natal up the Rota do Sol/Litoral Norte, takes you to Redinha, an urban beach with ocean and river bathing and buggies for hire. The local delicacy is fried fish with tapioca, served at the market. About 5 km north of Redinha, on a point, is

. From its high dunes there is a great view of the surrounding coastline.

The best-known beach in the state, Genipabu, is 30 km north of Natal. Its major attractions are some very scenic dunes and the

, a lake surrounded by cashew trees where tables are set up on a shoal in the water and drinks are served. There are also many bars and restaurants on the seashore. Buggy rental and microlight flights can be arranged.

North of Genipabu, across the Rio Ceará Mirim, are several beaches with coconut groves and dunes, lined with fishing villages and summer homes of people from Natal; access is via the town of Extremoz. One of these beaches,

, 35 km from Natal, is 6 km long and has a crystalline lake where colourful schools of fish can be seen.

, 49 km from Natal, has a small waterfall and the inland Lagoa de Jacumã, a lake surrounded by dunes where sand-skiing is popular.

, 44 km from Natal, is known for its lovely green ocean where numerous small boats and

anchor; the beach has attractive palms (buggy tour from Natal, including shifting dunes US$100). About 5 km to the north is

or

, a beautiful cove with many coconut palms and strong waves.

Lovely beaches continue along the state's coastline; as you get further away from Natal the beaches are more distant from the main highways and access is more difficult. Around 83 km north of Natal, in the centre of a region known for its coconuts and lobsters, is the ugly resort town of

. From here the coastline veers east-west.

As the coast turns to the west, the terrain becomes more dramatic and bleak. Sheltered coves are replaced by vast beaches stretching in seemingly interminable broad curves. Behind them are pink, brown and red cliffs, or large expanses of dunes. Highlights are the sleepy little village of

, with its sand streets and beautiful, gentle beach washed by a calm sea, and the

near the little fishing towns of

,

and

, where huge pink and white dunes converge behind magnificent long beaches.

The interior of Rio Grande do Norte, like that of its neighbours, is a combination of semi- desert

, with hilly areas covered in green vegetation, and pleasant temperatures of between 16°C and 25°C. The state is rich in archaeological sites, and numerous caves with primitive paintings have been found.

In the mountainous south-central region of the state is

, with the 18th-century church of Nossa Senhora da Guia. Acari is the access point for the Serra do Bico de Arara and is 221 km from Natal. South of town, in the

area, are multicoloured cave paintings where human remains dating back 11,000 years have been discovered.

In the centre of the state, on the east shore of the Armando Rua Gonçalves dam, is

. The town is surrounded by granite mountains on top of which are natural waterholes of up to 3 m deep that contain many fossils of giant fauna of the Pleistocene period. There are also rock paintings and engravings on boulders in this area.

Some 76 km southwest of Mossoró is

, a town with colonial mansions, where people make their living from agriculture, ceramics and lime extraction. About 10 km from town is

, a limestone shelf, 1 km wide and 2 km long, which has been weathered into canyons, grottoes and interesting formations. Paintings of animals and geometric figures, dating from 3000 to 5000 years ago, have been found in the caves.