Parnaíba and llha do Caju in Brazil
Parnaíba makes a good break in the journey north or south. It's a relaxed, friendly place, with a pretty colonial centre overlooking the Parnaíba river. If crossing the delta, buy all provisions here. There are beaches at
Luís Correia
, 14 km from Parnaíba, with radioactive sands. About 18 km from Parnaíba is
Pedra do Sal
, with dark blue lagoons and palm trees. At
Lagoa de Portinho
, 12 km from Parnaíba, there are bungalows, a bar, restaurant and canoes for hire; it is possible to camp.
Praia do Coqueiro
is a small fishing village with natural pools formed at low tide. Seafood is good at
Alô Brasil
and
Bar da Cota
.
The Delta do Parnaíba, which separates Piauí from Tutóia and the spectacular Lençóis Maranhenses in neighbouring Maranhão, is one of the largest river deltas in the world. It's a watery labyrinth of mangroves, broad rivers and narrow creeks, with unspoilt tropical islands fringed by gorgeous deserted beaches. The interiors of these islands are home to largely unstudied wildlife, including many rare birds, and traditional Caiçara fishing communities, who seldom see tourists. Renting hammock space with them is straightforward and simple make-shift
pousada
accommodation can be arranged. Many people in this region live as they have done for generations, in adobe houses, on a diet of fresh fish cooked in baked-earth ovens. Illiteracy is the norm. There is no mains electricity and the nearest shopping is at Parnaíba or Tutóia.
Crossing the delta is no longer possible by public ferry, but it's possible to charter a launch in Tutóia or at Porto dos Tatus (also called Porto da Barca), 10 km north of Parnaíba. Recommended boatmen include Capitão Báu. Alternatively, take a boat from Parnaíba to the crab-fishing village of Morro do Meio on Ilha das Canarias (Monday at high tide, usually in the small hours). It is sometimes possible to hitch a lift from Ilha das Canarias to Tutóia with a crab fisherman. It's more interesting and better value to cross the delta rather than returning to the same place, but allow plenty of time.
Tours can be arranged from Parnaíba with
Clipe Turismo
,www.clipecoturismo.com.br
. Day trips also run from Porto dos Tatus, either on a huge boat full of noisy people or a smaller launch. The former include food and drink.
This beautiful island, named after the extensive stands of cashew tree that fringe its shores, has an astonishing variety of terrain, with lakes, forest, marshes and an expanse of white dunes to the northwest. It has remained virtually unchanged for four centuries, thanks in part to the conservation efforts of the Englishman James Frederick Clark, who stumbled here in 1847. The whole island is environmentally protected and no chemical pesticides are used.
Much of the water, including the sea, is
salobre
(a mixture of fresh and salt). Swimming from the vast, shimmering beach through the currents of alternating sea and river water is a recommended experience. There are lakes on the island, caused by flooding, in which trees that have been killed by the brine content stand bleached and knotted - an unnerving image of lifelessness surrounded by vigorous vegetation. Walking through the forest surrounding the lake is magical: nesting herons, ospreys and kingfishers take off in clouds of flashing green; tiny, long-legged jacanas and gallinules hop from leaf to leaf on the water lilies; and myriad butterflies hover around your head.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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