Imperatriz and Carolina in Maranhão, Brazil
Imperatriz
Maranhão's second largest city sits on the eastern bank of the broad and beautiful Rio Tocantins, some 630 km southwest of São Luís, in the centre of a large and rapacious cattle and agri-bisiness region. The city is situated on the main BR-010 highway between Palmas in Tocantins, and is a junction on the long bus journey north or south between Belém and São Luís and Tocantins, Brasília and Goiás. It is also the transfer point for buses to Carolina. The city is closer to Belém than it is to São Luís and the vegetation and hot, humid climate feel more Amazonian than northeastern Brazilian. River beaches appear between July and October when the water is low. Book hotels in advance.
Ins and outs
Prefeito Renato Moreira Airport receives flights from Altamira, Araguaína, Belém, Brasília and São Luís. The rodoviária has bus connections with Belém, Palmas, Brasília, São Luís, Carolina and Teresina. It is often quicker to reach Carolina through Imperatriz than to go direct from São Luís or Teresina; check when buying a ticket. For more information see www.imperatriz.ma.gov.br.
CarolinaIns and outs
Prefeito Renato Moreira Airport receives flights from Altamira, Araguaína, Belém, Brasília and São Luís. The rodoviária has bus connections with Belém, Palmas, Brasília, São Luís, Carolina and Teresina. It is often quicker to reach Carolina through Imperatriz than to go direct from São Luís or Teresina; check when buying a ticket. For more information see www.imperatriz.ma.gov.br.
Carolina is a pretty colonial town of whitewashed houses and terracotta roofs on the banks of the Tocantins river. The climate is hot and damp, the sunsets over the river spectacular and the town is set in the midst of the
Chapada das Mesas
, an area of waterfalls and escarpments covered in a mix of
cerrado
and tropical forest and replete with wildlife.
The
Cachoeira da Pedra Caída
, on the Rio Farinha just off the BR-010, 35 km outside town is one of the northeast's most beautiful: a three-tiered waterfall that plunges into a rocky gorge. The
Cachoeiras do Itapecuru
off the BR-230, 33 km from Carolina are two conjoined falls that fall into a huge swimming hole surrounded by pretty white-sand beaches. The Rio Farinha, a tributary of the Tocantins, has a further series of spectacular falls including the
Cachoeira São Romão
a thundering curtain of water more than 100m and Farinha itself which falls into wide, deep and clear plunge pool. You'll need a guide with a 4WD to visit them. But come soon as they are threatened by a hydroelectric project.
The
Cachoeira da Prata
40 km from town falls next to the
Morro das Figuras
, hill which is covered with rock inscriptions thought to have been carved by the ancestors of the Tupi people. Access is by unsealed road from the BR-230, requiring a 4WD. The Chapada das Mesas has a series of other table top mountains, including the
Morro do Portal
, which affords wonderful views and is easy to reach from Carolina.
Between June and August the Tocantins river is low and lined with beaches, the best of which are on the opposite side of the river in the little town of
Filadélfia
, in Tocantins. The city's goes out at night on the
Ilha dos Botes
, a river island 5 km from town filled with simple bars and restaurants.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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