The coast west of Fortaleza in Brazil

The coast northwest of Fortaleza has many wide beaches backed by fixed or shifting dunes, and surrounded by swathes of coconut groves. The main roads are some distance from the shore, making access to the beaches more difficult than on the eastern coast. This means the fishing villages have retained a more traditional lifestyle and a responsible attitude towards travel is especially important.

Praia Barra do Ceará

This long beach lies 8 km Northwest of the centre of Fortaleza, where the Rio Ceará flows into the sea (take a 'Grande Circular 1' bus). Here are the ruins of the 1603
Forte de Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres
, the first Portuguese settlement in the area, partially covered by dunes, from which you can watch the beautiful sunsets. The palm-fringed beaches west of the Rio Ceará are cleaner but have strong waves. An iron bridge has been built across this river, making the area more accessible and open to development, as at
Praia de Icaraí
, 22 km to the northwest, and
Tabuba
, 5 km further north.

Cumbuco

Cumbuco is a long, white-sand beach backed by foreign-owned hotels and condominiums, a few palms and a handful of little beach shacks; and has a problem with rubbish. The beach itself is nothing special, unless you're a kitesurfer in which case you'll be amazed. There is no better place in Brazil and perhaps the world to learn how to kitesurf; ideal conditions can be guaranteed almost every day of the year. Sadly, as Cumbuco is largely European-owned and locals can no longer afford to buy property here, the town has entirely lost its Brazilian personality. Portuguese is rarely heard and the only locals that remain work in the hotels or restaurants. As well as kitesurfing and windsurfing, there are buggies, horse riding and
jangadas
, as well as dunes (known locally as
skibunda
), which you can slide down into the freshwater
Lagoa de Parnamirim
.

Cumbuco is served by regular buses from Fortaleza. Allow one to two hours for the journey. For more information visit www.kite-surf-brazil.com.

Pecém and Taíba

Some 58 km northwest of Fortaleza,
Pecém
is a village set in a cove with a wide beach, dunes and inland lagoons. There is strong surf and surfing and fishing championships are held here. From Pecém it is 19 km by road to
Taíba
, a 14-km-long beach with a long palm- covered point extending into the sea. Nearby is
Siupé
, a village that maintains colonial characteristics, where embroidered hammocks, a trademark of Ceará, are made.

Pecém and Taíba are serviced by regular buses from Fortaleza; both have a few simple
pousadas
.

Paracuru and Lagoinha

Some 106 km northwest of Fortaleza,
Paracuru
is a fishing port which hosts the most important
Carnaval
on the northwest coast, including street dancing and parades, decorated boats, sports championships and a beauty contest. It has some lovely deserted white-sand beaches with good bathing and surfing, and the people are very friendly. There are several
pousadas
in the centre. Restaurant
Ronco do Mar
has good fish dishes.
Boca do Poço
bar has
forró
at weekends. Buses from Fortaleza run at least every hour during the day to the central
rodoviária
.

West of Paracuru and 12 km from the town of Paraipaba is
Lagoinha
, a very scenic beach with hills, dunes and palms by the shore. There's a fishing village on one of the hills and nearby are some small but pleasant waterfalls. About 3 km west of town is
Lagoa da Barra
, a lake surrounded by dunes. Local legend says that one of the hills, Morro do Cascudo, has hidden treasure left by French pirates. There are six daily buses from Fortaleza to Paracuru and frequent transfers from there to Lagoinha; there are plenty of cheap seafood restaurants and
pousadas
.

Fleixeiras and around

Further northwest, some 135 km from Fortaleza, is
Trairi
, access point to a series of beaches that have kept their natural beauty and, until the mid-1990s, were untouched by tourism. North of Trairi, 15 km by road, is
Fleixeiras
, where pools that are good for snorkelling form near the beach at low tide. There are three daily buses from Fortaleza to Fleixeiras.

About 5 km west is
Imboaca
, a scenic beach with interesting rock formations and shifting dunes. Further west, at the mouth of the Rio Mundaú, is
Mundaú
, another beautiful area, with a beach, palms, dunes and an old working lighthouse. Take a raft across to the spit and walk for hours on deserted sands. Access roads from Imboaca and Cana to the south are often impassable because of shifting dunes; at low tide it is possible to reach it along the beach from Fleixeiras. There is a fishing village near the beach with some
pousadas
and restaurants.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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