Serra de Baturité, Canindé and Quixadá in Brazil

Serra de Baturité

The town of
Baturité
, the largest in the area, is surrounded by the hills and waterfalls of the
Maciço de Baturité
, an irregular massif with beautiful scenery. Baturité is more in the foothills than in the
serra
proper. It has some colonial buildings and a historical museum and is home to the
Pingo de Ouro
distillery, which can be visited. There are several hotels and restaurants, or you can also stay in the
Jesuit Seminary
 where a few monks still work in the local community and tend the cloister garden. The
rodoviária
is beyond town on the way out to Guaramiranga.

Sixteen kilometres northwest of Baturité, is
Guaramiranga
, the centre of a fruit and flower growing area. At 365 m above sea level, it is reached by a very twisty road through lush vegetation and fruit trees full of birds. There are several
pousadas
along the way. The town is packed with visitors at weekends; if you want to stay overnight you must book in advance. During
Carnaval
(February) there is a
Festival de Jazz and Blues
. To ensure a bed during this time you must book in November. The town also holds a
Festival Nordestino de Teatro
in September in the
Teatro Municipal Rachel de Queiroz
. This is in the centre of town and around it are a number of restaurants including
Café com Flores
,
Taberna Portuguesa
,
O Alemão
,
Confrari
(for pasta and fondue).

About 7 km further north is
Pacoti
, with large botanical gardens (
horto forestal
). There are trails for viewing the highland flora, and several waterfalls that are good for a dip. On the main road to Pacoti, turn left at Forquilha to climb
Pico Alto
(1115 m above sea level), previously thought to be the highest peak in Ceará, which offers special views and sunsets. You can go up by car, or if you leave early in the morning you may be able to catch a lift with the school bus.

Canindé

The pilgrimage centre of Canindé, 108 km southwest of Fortaleza, is located in the
Sertão Central
of Ceará. A large modern church stands on a hill and has carved baptistry doors and many ex-votos. It receives hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from all over the northeast between 26 September and 4 October, devotees of São Francisco das Chagas, '
O pobrezinho de Asis
', many of them dressed like Franciscan priests. The pilgrims flock to town on foot, by bus and mostly on
pau de arara
trucks. It is reputed to be second in the world, after Assisi, as a pilgrimage centre for Saint Francis. There is a regional
museum
with artefacts representative of northeast culture, and several restaurants.

There is a daily bus service from Fortaleza
rodoviária
with
Viação Nova Esperança
(three hours), and interesting dry-land vegetation along the route. From Canindé south to the Sertão Central (Quixadá), CE-456 is under repair. The majority of the road is not too bad, but there are some rough bits (95 km).

Quixadá

Quixadá is on the
Serra do Estevão
, with its rocky outcrops and dry hills representative of the central
sertão
. It is one of the top hang-gliding sites in the world and is also good for climbing and trekking. The town has a dam,
Açude de Cedro
, built by ex-slaves during the empire of Dom Pedro II, following the terrible drought of 1877-1879. You can walk across the dam to view the surrounding scenery, and reach the restaurants and bars. Activities include a two-hour trail (take an
ATEC
guide) to interesting rock formations such as the
Galhina Choca
('broody hen'), as well as climbing and abseiling on the rocks by the dam. There is a historical museum in the town.

Nossa Senhora Inmaculada Rainha do Sertão
is a pilgrimage centre 10 km from town, halfway up the highest peak in the region,
Pico do Urucum
, or Serra Preta, at 600 m. The views are tremendous. It's a modern sanctuary (inaugurated 1995) accommodating over 800 worshippers, and is decorated with the flags and images of the patron saints of every Latin American country and Italy. The main festival is 11 February, so the whole month is packed with visitors. The main launch ramp for hang-gliding ramp is just below the church.

About 21 km from Quixadá is
Gruta do Pajé
, a complex of religious buildings dating from the early 1900s.

Quixeramobim
is an important regional hub and the geographical centre of Ceará, 20 minutes from Quixadá. The town centre is pleasant with a lovely old market building, and is being completely refurbished. There is a
Memorial de Antônio Conselheiro
(of Canudos), who was born here in 1830 and lived in the town until, shamed by his first wife's adultery, he left for a wandering life before becoming the religious figure famous in history and novels. The memorial has some sculptures, high-relief pictures and a tiny remnant of railway. Nearby is an old iron railway bridge, another 'postcard' view of the town and
archaeological sites
with ancient inscriptions on boulders. The regional dam has been used for irrigation with good results. In August, an important musical event, the
Festival de Violas e Violeiros
, is held.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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