Juazeiro do Norte in Brazil

The south of the state is known as the
Cariri region
, the name of an indigenous group that lived in the interior and resisted Portuguese colonization for a long time. The main centre in this area is Juazeiro do Norte, the second largest city in Ceará. Along with its two satellites,
Crato
and
Barbalha
, 10 km to the west and south respectively, they form an oasis of green in the dry
sertão
.

Juazeiro was home to one of Brazil's most venerated Catholic figures: the miracle working priest, Padre Cícero Romão Batista, a controversial and very popular figure who championed the rights of Ceara's poor from the 1870s to the 1930s. Even before his death, Padre Cícero had become a legend after a consecrated communion wafer he passed to a woman at Mass reportedly bled in her mouth, and Juazeiro do Norte an important pilgrimage site, drawing the faithful from throughout the northeast and, increasingly, from the whole nation. Today it is the most important pilgrimage centre of the region and visiting during a pilgrimage is
an incredible experience. The town is dominated by the imposing Italiantate
Sanctuário do Sagrado Coração de Jesus
basilica and a huge sombre
statue of Padre Cicero
, gazing at a distant horizon from the top of the
Colina do Horto
hill, 8 km from the town centre. To get there, either take the pilgrim trail up the hill (one hour, start early because of the heat) or take the
Horto
city bus to the summit. There are also two museums devoted to the priest. The
Memorial Padre Cicero
is based in the house where he lived and preserves some of his personal belongings and myriad messages from pilgrims including lottery tickets and football coupons that provided winnings after Cicero answered pilgrims prayers. There are even more covering the walls of the
Museu Vivo do Padre Cicero
 together with numerous effigies and devotional books. The priest is buried in the simple church of
chapel of Nossa Senhora do Perpétuo Socorro
 which is completely packed with pilgrims during religious celebrations. Also worth seeing is the
church of Nossa Senhora das Dores
with the adjacent pilgrimage grounds, roughly fashioned after St Peter's Square in Rome.

The town receives six main annual pilgrimages , but visitors arrive all year round and religious tourism is the principal source of income. Another cultural manifestation seen throughout the Cariri region is the
bandas cabaçais ou de pífaros
, musical groups that participate in all celebrations. As well as playing instruments, they dance, imitating animals, and perform games or fights

Ins and outs

Cariri airport
 is 6 km from the city and receives flights from Brasília, Fortaleza, Recife, Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo (Guarulhos). The
rodoviária
, is on the road to Crato.

Excursions from Juazeiro do Norte

The
Chapada do Araripe
, a tableland about 850 m high, is south of Juazeiro do Norte and extends from east to west for 220 km. The area is believed to have been forced upwards and numerous fossilized plants and animals including giant sloths have been found. It has one of the most important native forest reserves in the state, the
Floresta Nacional do Araripe
 with grottoes, palaeontological sites, springs and cloudforest with ferns and orchids. Some 22 km south of Juazeiro do Norte, within the
chapada
, is the
Balneário do Caldas
, a pool fed with natural spring water; access is via Barbalha.

In the area of
Jardim
, 34 km south of Barbalha, there are several natural springs, while by
Missão Velha
, 22 km east of Barbalha, there are rapids on the Rio Salgado and an attractive waterfall. Another point pf access to the
chapada
is through
Santana do Cariri
, 60 km west of Juazeiro do Norte. The main attraction here is the
Nascente dos Azedos
, a natural spring good for bathing. There is also a palaeontology museum and one basic hotel. Transport is with
Pernambucana
.

Crato
is an older city which lost its significance in the region, owing to the increased importance of Juazeiro do Norte. It has several pleasing
praças
and a small
Museu de Fósseis
 housing an impressive collection of fossils from the Cretaceous period gathered in the Chapada do Araripe.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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