Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina in Brazil
The Chapada Diamantina national park was founded in 1985 and comprises 1500 sq km of escarpment broken by extensive tracts of
caatinga
scrub forest,
cerrado
, patches of moist Atlantic coast forest and pântano (wetlands with permanent plant growth). The diversity of ecosystems have an associated diversity
of flora and fauna. There is very little primary forest left, but the area is nonetheless home to rare large mammals such as maned wolf, jaguar and ocelot and birds endemic to all of the ecosystems. Spectaculars include the king vulture, crowned eagle, red-legged seriema and blue-winged macaw. There are birding guides available in Lençóis .
The
park headquarters
The
chapada
forms part of the Brazilian shield, one of the oldest geological formations on earth, dating from the when the world was only one land mass. It extends north into the Serra da Capivara and Jalapão, and south into the Serra do Espinhaço and Serra da Canastra in Minas and the mountains of Mato Grosso and northern Bolivia.
Cave paintings and petroglyphs suggest that people have been living in and around the
chapada
for millennia. However, there were no permanent settlers in the hills in recorded history until the arrival of Portuguese prospectors in the 1700s, who discovered gold and diamonds in the extreme south of the
chapada
near Livramento de Nossa Senhora and in the north near Jacobina. The Portuguese kept the findings secret for fear of driving down world gem prices, and ceding the
chapada
to other European powers, notably the Dutch and Spanish, who were invading and occupying Brazilian territory repeatedly during this period.
The
chapada
didn't open up fully to mining until 1844, when Mucugê, Rio de Contas and subsequently Lençóis were founded and settled by miners from neighbouring Minas Gerais and western Bahia, followed by Portuguese noblemen from the Bahian coast. The latter evolved into
coroneis
: robber barons who set-up ruthless local fiefdoms run by gun-toting
jangada
henchmen. The most famous was Horáçio de Mattos, a prototype for many modern-day rural Brazilian politicians. De Mattos sucked all the money out of the
chapada
with his personal campaigns. He carried out famous vendettas against two other
coroneis
, Manuel Fabrício de Oliveira and Militão Rodrigues Coelho, to establish patriarchal dominance, overthrew the state government, routed the federal army and chased the infamous communist Prestes column all the way across Brazil and into Bolivia. He was in the back in Salvador in 1930.
The
chapada
is cut by dirt roads, trails and rivers, which lead to waterfalls, viewpoints on table-top mountains, caves and natural swimming holes. There are many different hikes, and many of the routes have been used for centuries by the local farmers and miners, but finding your own way is difficult and it is best to visit on a guided trip.
There are more than 24 tour operators in Lençóis and organizing a trip to even the most distant sights is straightforward. Most tours tend to be car-based and rather sedentary as these are more profitable. But there are plenty of great hikes and sights around Lençóis, so consider all the options before signing up. Brazilian tourists are often more interested in chatting loudly among themselves than in hearing the quiet music of nature, so it can be difficult to see wildlife.
The most impressive sights in the
chapada
are included in the standard packages. Most have an entrance fee. These include: the extensive
Gruta do Lapa Doce
and
Pratinha
caves; the latter of which are cut through by glassy blue water. The table-top mountains at the
Morro de Pai Inácio
, 30 km from Lençóis, offer the best view of the
chapada
, especially at sunset. The 384 m high
Cachoeira da Fumaça
(Smoke or Glass Waterfall) is the second highest in Brazil and lies deeper within the park 2½ hours hike from the village of
Capão
. The view is astonishing; the updraft of the air currents often makes the water flow back up creating the 'smoke' effect. The
Rio Marimbus
flows through and area of semi-swamp reminiscent of the Pantanal and very rich in birdlife whilst the
Rio Mucugezinho
plunges over the blood-red
Cachoeira do Diabo
in an extensive area of
cerrado
just below the craggy
Roncador
('snorer') waterfall.
It is essential to use a guide for treks as it is easy to get lost. Trail-walking in the park can involve clambering over rocks and stepping stones so bring strong shoes. A reasonable level of physical fitness is advisable. There are a lot of mosquitos in campsites so carry repellent. For overnight trips it is highly advisable to bring a fleece and sleeping bag as nights in the 'winter' months can be cold. Sometimes, guides can arrange these. A tent is useful but optional; although many camps are beside reasonably hospitable caves. Torches (flashlights) and a water bottle are essentials.
The
Morro do Pai Inacio to Capão
trail is a 25-km day-hike that leads from the summit of the Pai Inácio escarpment around other table-top mountains, passing through
cerrado
,
caatinga
and arable areas to the Capão valley. Another day hike is from
Lençóis to Capão
, along a series of rivers (great for swimming) and around the base of the mountains, with a car ride back at the end of the walk.
The
Cachoeira da Fumaça
trail leaves direct from Lençóis and takes two to three days to reach the base of the falls, from where there is a steep hike to the top. If you only have one day, it's possible to drive the 70 km to the
Vale do Capão
and hike the steep 6-km trail to the top of the falls. Both trails are very popular in high season.
A trail runs from
Igatu to Andaraí
, leaving from the central square of the former town past the cemetery and following the Xique-Xique river. The walk takes four hours and offers wonderful views of the mountain landscape. There are plenty of river bank stops for a cooling swim. There are longer treks too.
The
Vale do Paty
hike is a four- to six-day walk running through the heart of the Serra along a valley surrounded by imposing
meseta
table-top mountains. There are many good stopping places with viewpoints, caves, swimming holes and waterfalls. The route usually departs from Capão in the north or from the village of Guiné just west of Andaraí town.
For a full cross-section of the park, hike the 112-km
Travessia Diamantina
, which runs from the Vale do Capão in the north right across the park via the Vale do Paty, to the Cachoeira do Buracão in the far south. Accommodation is in tents and rustic
pousadas
and there are side-trips off to the Cachoeira da Fumaça (near Capão), Igatu, Poço Encatado, and the Marimbus pantanal area and Roncador falls. Establish which of the sights you would like to visit with the tour company before setting off.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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