Hot in the sun, cold in the shade and bitterly cold in the wind and at night, Uyuni was founded in 1889 and is one of the starting points for trips to the
salares
and other attractions in the southwest. For much of the 20th century it was important as a railway junction, today activity revolves around the tourist and salt trades.
Uyuni's functional architecture, wide, dust-blown streets, freezing cold winds and flat surroundings, give it a strange feeling. Plaza Arce is a two-block pedestrian walkway joining the train station with the church. It has a number of agencies, restaurants, a museum and a clock tower, which at times houses a tourist information office. Beyond the church Avenida Arce leads to the bus companies and cheaper hotels and agencies. The little-used main plaza is along Avenida Ferroviaria, two blocks east of Plaza Arce, it has a couple of large hothouses with plants, the only way to see something green here. Along Avenida Ferroviaria are a monument to a railway worker, a small steam engine and a monument to the Chaco War. Uyuni is noted as the first place where a plane took off and landed on Bolivian soil in 1921, and possibly has the distinction of being soccer's point of entry into the country, introduced by British railway engineers.
Sights
The small
Museo Arqueológico y Antropológico de los Andes Meridionales
has a well-labelled collection of artefacts from different periods: deformed skulls, mummies, cloth and ceramics. On the edge of town is the
(train cemetery). Rusting steam engines and carriages decay slowly into the barren landscape. Some agencies throw in a swift visit at the end of a tour, saving you the walk.
days are Thursday, Friday and Sunday, when Avenida Potosí is filled with vendors. The local fiesta honouring Uyuni's foundation is 11 July.
Around Uyuni
is a small village northeast of Uyuni on the road to Potosí (basic
). It was an important mining centre from colonial times until the 1950s when the mine shut down and Pulacayo became a virtual ghost town. There is a small mining museum, which allows you to go underground. The train cemetery here contains the first locomotive to enter Bolivia and a train robbed by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid shortly before the end of their career . Uyuni agencies offer tours to Pulacayo. Another possible day trip is to
.
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF