Oruro carnival

The normally cold, austere city of Oruro undergoes a complete transformation during its carnival. This is Bolivia's greatest folkloric show, a UNESCO World Heritage event. What sets it apart is the devotion shown by thousands of dancers and musicians who, to honour the Virgen del Socavón, must by tradition participate for at least three consecutive years. It is a fascinating insight into local folk legends, a blend of native beliefs going back to the Uru nation and Catholic doctrine, and a chance to enjoy some of the finest Bolivian dance.

Carnival is a movable feast, held in February or March on the four days preceding Ash Wednesday. Over the years, the festival has grown and evolved. When it was first held only the miners danced, but several other guilds have taken up the custom and now traders, business people and professionals take part. The variety of dances has also increased and around 50 fraternidades, dance companies from all over the country, take part. The size of the companies ranges from 50 dancers up to 700 - so you can imagine the massive scale of the parades. Leading each company is the cargamento, a vehicle covered with fine embroidery and silverware, with a statue or image of the Virgin. Each group is accompanied by one or more brass bands, the larger ones have more than 100 musicians.

The colourful and often elaborate costumes and masks are a real treat. Every year the companies design new outfits, many of which are sewn in the shops on Calle La Paz, in the district of La Ranchería. Carnival organizers have introduced regulations forbidding the use of costumes made of wild animals, such as flamingo and rhea feathers and armadillos used for noise makers, but this practice has not been fully eradicated.

There is much partying and water-throwing during carnival and this is an opportunity for visitors to share the experience with Bolivians. Only company members may participate in the peregrinación, the main parade on Saturday, while on Sunday, visitors may also be allowed to join in.

The main parades

The most impressive event in the Oruro carnival is the Sábado de Peregrinación, the main parade, which starts at 0700 on Saturday morning and continues until the early hours of Sunday. The 5-km route leads to the Santuario de la Virgen del Socavón, where devout dancers approach the altar on their knees before being blessed by the priest. At dawn on Sunday is El Alba, a tumultuous meeting and competition of all participating bands at Plaza del Folklore, near the Santuario. La Entradaor Corso follows, starting at 0800 on Sunday, when all the companies participate in a second less formal parade (many leave their masks off) along the same route. The music is slightly different.

The dances

Eighteen different types of dances are part of Oruro's carnival. La Diablada, is the most representative of these andLa Diablada Auténtica, the oldest dance company dating to 1904, always opens the parade. The procession is led by a condor and a pack of frolicking bears. Then follows a group of masked dancers, led by two luxuriously costumed masqueraders representing Lucifer and Satan. The Archangel Michael urges on hundreds of leaping dancers in ferocious diabolical costumes. Prancing seductively at the head of columns of demons, a band of female dancers, wearing red wigs and masks, represent China Supay, Lucifer's consort, who plays the role of carnal temptress. A mighty brass band drives on the great team of devils.

The costumes always feature a heavy, gruesome mask modelled in plaster, with a toad or snake on top, huge glass eyes, triangular glass teeth, a horsehair wig and pointed, vibrating ears; some even breathe fire. Tied around the neck is a large, silk shawl embroidered with snakes or other figures, and the dancer also has a jewelled, fringed breastplate. Over his white shirt and tights he wears a sash trimmed with coins and from it hang the four flaps of his native skirt, embroidered in gold and silver thread and loaded with precious stones. Special boots equipped with spurs complete the elaborate outfit. Satan and Lucifer wear scarlet cloaks and carry a serpent twisted around one arm and a trident.

Another important dance with a catchy tune, very much an Oruro tradition since 1913, is La Morenada, a satire of the lives of black slaves, the morenosbrought to South America and led off in chains to work in the mines and haciendas. The group is led by the ReyMoreno(Black King) and the caporal(foreman). The richly decorated costumes of the participants represent the wealth of the slave owners, while the protruding eyes and tongue of the masks convey the fatigue of the slaves and their suffering. Following the same theme are the dance ofLos Negritos, honouring the Afro-Bolivian slaves, with brightly coloured outfits and percussion bands, and the energetic dance of Los Caporales, which satirises the slaves who where forced to act as foremen controlling and whipping their own people. Los Doctorcitosridicule the pompous lawyers of colonial times.

The dance of Los Incastells the myth of the origins of the Inca empire and of historical events until the time of the Spanish conquest. The Kallawayasrepresent the ancient medicine men moving with their bag of herbs from one community to another.

Some of the dances give a glimpse of life in the Altiplano. The colourful Llameradashows the herdsmen driving their llamas with whips. Los Zampoñerosplay their panpipes and dance to celebrate planting and harvesting in honour of the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth). La Cullaguadais the dance of spinners and weavers, while Los Potolosdisplay a courtship dance while fetching water in a small village.

Different regions of Bolivia are also represented in dances such as the energetic Tobas, from the eastern lowlands, jungle and Chaco; performers wear large feather headdresses and carry lances. The Tinkurepresents the fighting rituals of communities in northern Potosí and southern Oruro, while the Pujllay, a celebration from near Sucre, commemorates the victory of ill-prepared natives against Spanish troops.

Before and after the parades

The preparations begin four months before the actual event, on the first Sunday of November, with the Primer Convite(First Invitation) and a mass in honour of the Virgen del Socavón. Rehearsals are held every Sunday until one week before carnival, when the Ultimo Convite(Last Invitation), a final rehearsal takes place, preceded by another mass for the participants.

The Thursday before carnival, authentic dance groups from some 80 communities from around Oruro and neighbouring departments dance along the same route as the Peregrinación in the Anata Andina, a harvest festival in gratitude to the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth). The music and instruments are native rather than European. The Friday preceding carnival, traditional cha'llasand khoas(blessing ceremonies) are held in many work places. Miners also include a wilancha, the sacrifice of a llama.

Carnival Monday is El Día del Diablo y del Morenoin which the diablos, morenosand other participants in their costumes bid farewell to the Virgin. Arches decorated with colourful woven cloth and silverware are set up on the street leading to the Santuario, where a mass is held. In the morning, at Av Cívica the diablada companies participate in a play of the Seven Capital Sins. This is followed by a play about the meeting of the Inca Atahualpa with Pizarro, performed by the Fraternidad Hijos del Sol. At night, each company has a private party.

Carnival Tuesday is Martes de Cha'lla, when families get together for the Cha'lla ceremony along much water throwing (even more than on previous days) and drinking. Celebrations continue with more parades in the outlying neighbourhoods and rural communities until Las Tentaciones,on the Saturday and Sunday after carnival.