Sights

The city's heart is the spacious, elegant Plaza 25 de Mayo. Here, the sucrenses (local residents), sit and chat, shaded from the midday sun by palm and ceibo trees. The plaza is surrounded by fine buildings. Among these is the Casa de la Libertad, formerly the Assembly Hall of the Jesuit University, where the country's Declaration of Independence was signed on 6 August 1825. The actual document is on display. Also among its treasures is a famous portrait of Simón Bolívar by the Peruvian artist Gil de Castro, which claims to have the greatest likeness of the man. On the same block, at the corner of Arce y Arenales is the Alcaldía Municipal, the current building dates to 1891, by the stairs leading to the second floor is a stained-glass window with Chuquisaca motifs.

On the southwest side of the plaza is the beautiful 16th-century cathedral. A look inside is recommended, especially to see the famous jewel-encrusted painting of the Virgen de Guadalupe (1601), as well as works by the Italian Bernardo Bitti, the first great painter of the New World, who studied under Raphael, and other church treasures. Within the cathedral is the Museo Catedralicio. Next to the cathedral is the Prefectura Departamental. This very large imposing building dating to 1896 first housed the Palacio Arzobispal (archbishop's palace) and later the Palacio de Gobierno. On its façade are the Bolivian code of arms and the phrase: “la unión hace la fuerza” (unity is strength), a sentiment Bolivia needs to be reminded of in the 2008 climate of division and confrontation. In a colonial house on the southeast side of the plaza are two university museums. On the ground floor, the Museo de Historia Natural contains stuffed animals from around the department. On the second floor, the Museo Alfredo Gutiérrez Valenzuela houses works of art, sculptures and furniture collected by Sucre journalist and politician Doctor Alfredo Gutiérrez (1901-1972). The three-tier candelabra from his home around the corner hung so low the museum could only fit in the top layer.

Two blocks from the main plaza are the 17th-century church and monastery of San Felipe Neri. The neoclassical church built with stone from Cerro Churuquella has an attractive courtyard, the monastery houses the Colegio María Auxiliadora. Visits include the church, crypt and the roof-top lookout (note the penitents' benches), which offers fine views over the city. Diagonally opposite is the 16th-century baroque church of La Merced, notable for its gilded central and side altars and paintings by Melchor Pérez de Holguín.

Behind the Alcaldía Municipal is the fine church of San Miguel. Completed in 1628, has been restored and is very beautiful with Moorish carved and painted ceilings, pure-white walls and a gold and silver altar. In the Sacristy some early sculpture can be seen. Note also the bronze ornaments on its door. It was from San Miguel that Jesuit missionaries went south to convert Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay. The church of Santa Mónica, at the corner of Arenales y Junín, built in 1567, with a mestizo-barroque façade, is perhaps one of the finest gems of Spanish architecture in the Americas. It is now part of the Colegio Sagrado Corazón and used as the school's theatre and general purpose hall.

A block from the main plaza along Arce is the basilica of San Francisco (1581). It has altars coated in gold leaf and Moorish ceilings carved of cedar. One of the bells is the one that summoned the people of Sucre to fight for independence. On the same block is the large Mercado Central. The Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore (MUSEF), www.musef.org.bo, has exhibits of the varied ethnic groups that make up Bolivia, displays of festivities and other folklore. The mask collection is particularly interesting. The Museo Textil-Etnográfico and Museo ASUR, it is run by Antropólogos del Sur Andino (ASUR). This excellent museum displays contemporary and pre-Hispanic regional textiles and traditional techniques. It is a good place to learn about regional indigenous groups, their dress and textiles, there are weaving demonstrations and a shop selling crafts.

The church of Santo Domingo has a good external chapel and baroque lateral altars. By the main altar is a much-venerated image of Señor del Gran Poder. The Museo de Santa Clara displays paintings by Melchor Pérez Holguín, books, vestments, some silver and musical instruments (including a 1664 organ), there is a window to view the church. Small items and snacks made by the nuns are on sale. The church of San Lázaro is regarded as the first cathedral of La Plata (Sucre). On the nave walls are six paintings attributed to Zurbarán. It also has fine silverwork and alabaster in the Baptistery. The Museo Universitario Charcas has anthropological, archaeological and folkloric exhibits, as well as colonial, republican and modern-art galleries.

The cobbled Plaza Pedro de Anzures has a fountain and the Mirador de La Recoleta, a colonnade with great views over the city, where artisans sell their crafts. This is where Pedro de Anzures founded the city and colonial houses can be seen in the narrow streets nearby. The Museo de la Recoleta is notable for the beauty of its cloisters and gardens; the carved cedar choir stalls above the nave of the church are especially fine . The museum includes a collection of colonial- and republican-era paintings. In the grounds is the Cedro Milenario, a 1400-year-old cedar. The Museo Tanga Tanga is an interactive children's museum with science, technology, art, music, theatre, dance and books. The Cementerio General is worth visiting for its gardens and mausoleums of presidents and other famous people; boys who also clean the tombs give guided tours, donations are appreciated.