Trekking near Sorata

Although deglaciation is affecting the Cordillera Real, Sorata is a great base for climbing and trekking. All routes out of Sorata are difficult, owing to the confusing number of paths in the area. Another downer is that all routes climb very steeply. To overcome these two problems it makes sense to hire mules for the first day - ask at Residencial Sorata or Guías y Porteadores . They rent mules and porters and also trekking equipment.

Ins and outs

Maps and guidebooks DAV Cordillera Real Nord (Illampu) or IGM Sorata 5846 I and Warizata 5846 II, Liam O'Brien. Nearly the whole of the Mapiri Trail and the middle of the Camino del Oro are unmapped at any useful scale. Tacacoma 5847 II covers the start of the Mapiri Trail and Tipuani 5947 I covers the end of the Camino del Oro. Trekking in Bolivia covers many treks; serious climbers should consult Bolivia - a climbing guide, or The Andes: A guide for climbers.

Lagunas Glaciar and Chillata

This popular four-day trek is steep and beautiful, especially on the way up. Guides from Sorata will take donkeys to carry bags and food but you'll need to be fit. Laguna Glaciar is high - 5038 m - and has small icebergs floating around in it, but there are also ducks and hummingbirds, amazing sunsets and fantastic views of Illampu and across the San Cristóbal valley. Along the way are the crumbling ruins of Inca Marka, dating back to the Mollu culture; sadly many structures have been turned into latrines. Laguna Chillata as a whole has been heavily impacted by tourism and many groups camp there.

The usual route is as follows. Day 1: To Titisani. Day 2: To Laguna Glaciar. Day 3: To Laguna Chillata. Day 4: Down to Sorata.

Illampu circuit

This is a tour around the entire Illampu-Ancohuma massif. It's hard work, with three passes over 4000 m and one over 5000 m. However, the effort is worth it with stunning mountain views and the chance to see condors, viscachas, and Andean geese among others. The Illampu Circuit is normally done in 8-10 days but there are a number of variations, including the Trans-Cordillera Trek, 12 days from Sorata to Huayna Potosí or 20 days all the way to Illimani at the opposite (south) end of the Cordillera Real. On the shorter version, camping is usually above Lakathiya, at Ancoma, before Cocoyo, above Chajolpaya, at Lago Kacha and at the top of the Millipaya valley. Due to a number of armed robberies at Laguna San Francisco in the past, guides take groups through this area in the middle of the night to avoid contact with the local population. Enquire locally regarding the current safety situation before heading out.

Mapiri trail

Matthew Parris, author of Inca Kola: a traveller's tale of Peru, called Mapiri the “trail of blood and tears”. He goes on: “When the Lord sent 10 plagues down on the Egyptians, he was only testing. From the slopes of the Andes to the depths of the rainforest; through snow, sun, rain, mud and jungle; through blisters, toads, flies, bees, wasps, hornets, mosquitoes and ants; through humming-birds, butterflies and parrots; through such beauty and exhaustion as I never thought to see; it was an incredible journey, a week of fury and exultation.”

Obviously this is only for hard-core trekkers. If you get into trouble you will have to get yourself out of it as there are very few, if any, people about. The trail is not Inca or pre-Hispanic - it was built to facilitate the transport of quinine out of the Mapiri area. It was subsequently abandoned and re-opened several times, most recently by miners looking for gold in 1989. Mules cannot do this trek because of the many fallen trees, but guides can be hired in Sorata. Start as early as possible each day as cloud normally rolls in around 1200-1400 and it rains most days during the afternoon.

The route runs from El Ingenio to Mapiri in about eight days.

Camino del Oro

This very hot and strenuous five- to seven-day trek from Ancoma (on the Illampu Circuit) to Guanay may not be in existence for much longer. The road from Guanay has been moving up the Tipuani valley, destroying the trail from below. Mining has already badly affected the landscape on the lower parts. Enquire locally before heading out.