Isla del Sol

Though only a short distance by boat from Copacabana, Isla del Sol feels altogether different. The land, water and sky have a quiet almost serene beauty and this is a fitting site for the Inca creation legend. A sacred rock is worshipped as the birthplace of Manco Kapac and Mama Ocllo, son and daughter of Viracocha and the first Incas. There are many beautiful walks through villages and Inca terraces, some of which are still in use. You could easily stay to relax for a few days (there is plenty of accommodation) yet many visitors go just for one day, either briskly striding the length of the island from north to south between boats, or visiting only sites at the south end at a more leisurely pace.

Unfortunately, the growing number of tourists concentrated along the most popular trails and sites has had a negative impact. Note that water, although plentiful, may have to be hauled up by donkey from the lake; don't waste and make sure to take all your trash back with you to the mainland. The many craft vendors and beggars, both adults and children, are reportedly very persistent.

By Bolivian standards, Isla del Sol is intensively populated and cultivated, and so is covered in trails. The west side is far less cultivated and inhabited and has the highest point on the island. The most impressive ruins are at the far north at Chincana. It is possible to arrange for your boat from Copacabana to take you there and then walk back across the island to be picked up at the Inca steps at the other end, where there are a second set of ruins (much more visited) at Pilcocaina and the Inca Spring. Walking from one end of the island to the other takes three to five hours.

Around the island

Starting at the north end of the island is the village of Challapampa near the Roca Sagradaor sacred rock of Titicaca (after which the lake is named) and the labyrinth-like ruins of Chincana, a restored Inca temple and nunnery. It is a charming place by the water's edge with pigs running free across the fine sandy beaches. There is a good little museum in Challpamapa, the Museo de Oro containing artefacts from archaeological excavations at the nearby island of Koa, plus maps and pictures. You will see hollow stones in which offerings were placed and dropped into the lake. These were retrieved by American and Bolivian archaeologists.

Next to the sacred rock is a table said to be the original sacrificial spot where llamas met their end (it is also here that the mountain path from the south end of the island finishes). Many local guides offer their services here.

About 1½ hours from Challapampa, in the middle of the island, is the friendly village of Challa, which is very nice and worth a stay. There is an excellent little museum dedicated to the Aymara culture, named the Museo Comunitario de Etnografía(or Museo Templo del Sol). There are some fascinating displays of traditional Aymara costumes worn for dances and in daily life, as well as artefacts from around the island.

From Challa it's about two hours southeast to Yumani, where there are places to stay. Below Yumani is the jetty for Crillon Tours, Transturin and the boats from Copcabana. Las Mil Gradas(the Thousand Steps), are steep Inca steps leading up from the jetty to Fuente del Inca, three natural springs said to aid in matters of love, health and eternal youth.

Isla de la Luna

Southeast of the Isla del Sol is Isla de la Luna (or Coati), smaller and less visited. Only about 10 families live here, there is no accommodation or regular transport from Copacabana. To reach Isla de la Luna, you can hire a boat from Isla del Sol, 1½ hours sailing each way plus an hour on the island. The best ruins on Isla de la Luna are an Inca temple and nunnery, both neglected.