La Paz to Charazani

On the road north from Escoma to Charazani is a turning to the right. The right-hand road crosses a 5000-m pass before descending to

. Continue down a very poor jeep-track then hike one hour down a cactus-filled canyon to the ruins of

, a major archaeological site on the eastern Andean slopes, at about 1500 m, where you can camp, but note, there is a small risk of malaria here. Also beware of the ants: the red ones bite and those that are brown cut your tent! The ancient city stands on two built-up platforms, with delicate walls, plazas, narrow streets, store rooms, niches and pot shards scattered around. Admission to the museum in Aucapata is by donation. Great care is needed not to damage this site. A recommended guidebook is

, by Hugo Boero Rojo (Los Amigos del Libro, 1992). There may be a truck or bus to Aucapata from the Cemetery district in La Paz; confirm all details locally and well in advance.