Area Protegida Apolobamba

One of Bolivia's many 'must see' parks, the Area Protegida Apolobamba is next door to the western edge of Parque Nacional Madidi. Now at 483,744 ha, it is one of the few parks that has expanded in size. Created in 1972, it was named by UNESCO as a 'unique habitat' in 1977, then re-named Reserva Nacional de Fauna de Ulla Ulla in 1983, before assuming its current designation in 1999. Established specifically to help preserve dwindling herds of vicuña, the reserve is also home to the more domesticated alpaca and llama.

Ins and outs

Although remote, reaching the Area Protegida Apolobamba is not all that difficult, located 180 km northwest of La Paz. There are small communities within the reserve's borders, including Hilo Hilo, Ulla Ulla, and Pelechuco. The official entrance, which is still free, is at La Cabaña (no tourist facilities), just north of Ulla Ulla. Alternatively, you can simply get off the buses that run between Pelechuco and La Paz (they run through the southwest sector of the park) at one of the entry trails outside of Pelechuco in Qutapampa, Soropata or Agua Blanca. The park's western border is the international frontier with Peru, which, in addition to being a key ecological transition zone, makes it a politically strategic area. It is possible (but inadvisable) to cross the border from Peru into the park or vice-versa: if a valid entry stamp is not on your passport, you may be asked to leave the country once you reach civilization. The nearest official entry points are at Kasani or Desaguadero , or at Puerto Heath, a good 400 km north of Pelechuco as the crow flies.

Attractions

Apolobamba is well known for its scenic beauty, owing to its impressive array of snow- capped mountains, crystal clear lakes and glaciers (the impressive Chaupi Orcko is one of the largest intact glaciers on earth). The area is made up of several ecological zones, ranging from the mountainous and cold Cordillera Apolobamba to humid grasslands and sub- tropical Yungas. It also boasts the Cela rainforest, one of the most intact in South America.

Apolobamba is increasingly popular with trekkers, either travelling independently, with local community guides or with agencies from La Paz. The native people of the area are therefore becoming accustomed to seeing foreigners but not all villages are equally friendly. Responsible travel is especially important here, to protect both the natural and cultural environments, both of which are very fragile.

There is much to see and do in the park. If you have your own transport, the wild vicuña herds can be observed at close range. During the day, especially in the dry season, the vicuñas graze in the marshy areas, in among the alpacas, but towards evening, when their domesticated cousins return home to their stone-walled corrals, the vicuñas wander off to more isolated pastures. It's a particularly beautiful sight to see these graceful animals grazing on the plains at dawn against a backdrop of snowy peaks.

This is also a primary habitat for condor, the national bird, and you may be fortunate to see flamingos during their winter migration. The terrain and altitude make it a trekker's paradise, although its primary purpose remains to preserve wildlife.