Road

The main paved road axis of Bolivia runs from La Paz to Santa Cruz via Cochabamba. Other paved roads connect La Paz, Oruro, Potosí and Sucre; as well as Santa Cruz and Trinidad, and Santa Cruz and Yacuiba on the Argentine border. Paved international roads run from La Paz to Arica (Chile) and Puno (Peru); and the Trans-Chaco highway, from Santa Cruz to Asuncíon (Paraguay), is mostly paved. The remainder of Bolivia's roads are either gravel or earth, notoriously narrow and tortuous in the highlands, notoriously prone to wash-outs in the lowlands. Having said that, the country's road network is much better than it used to be and road-improvement projects continue in many areas.

The
Administradora Boliviana de Carreteras (ABC)
, www.abc.gov.bo, provides daily updates on road conditions throughout the country, including a list of roadblocks due to social unrest (a relatively common occurrence). Their toll-free phone line can also be used for emergencies and to report road hazards.

Bus

Despite the state of many roads, bus travel in Bolivia is the most common and economical form of transport. A bus will get you almost anywhere, if you have the time, patience and nerves. The largest cities have the best and most frequent bus routes, including
bus-cama
(comfortable sleeper) and
semi-cama
service. For smaller destinations, trying to find the bus you need can present a serious challenge. La Paz and other major cities have central bus terminals, but local and regional buses do not usually leave from them, and finding out when and where they leave from can be tricky. Plus, bus times are changed on local, regional and national festivals and for soccer matches. On election days no public transport runs. During the wet season journey times can be increased by hours, even days, as roads get washed out and vehicles get stuck in the mud.

Most Bolivians prefer to travel overnight and many long-haul services leave in the evening in order to arrive the following day. This is not ideal in terms of road safety nor the best way to enjoy the often magnificent scenery on route, but you may have no alternative for some destinations. If you look hard enough though, you might find a way of making the trip by daylight using a series of local services, with perhaps an overnight stop in a small town along the way; a good opportunity to get to know less touristy parts of the country. Take some food, water and toilet paper on all longer bus journeys.

Road safety
should be an important concern for all visitors to Bolivia. Choose your transport judiciously and don't hesitate to pay a little more to travel with a better company. Look over the vehicle before you get on. How bald are the tires, how cracked is the windshield, how over-crowded is it? Note that smaller buses, although less comfortable, are often safer on narrow mountain roads. If a vehicle doesn't feel right, look for another. If a driver is drunk or reckless, demand that he stop at the nearest village so you can get off.

Inter-city buses are called
flotas
, urban ones
micros
, and there are also many
minibuses
(vans) and
trufis
(shared taxis). Bus fares vary enormously; the prices quoted in this book are for reference only, and it is not unusual to shop around and bargain when purchasing a long-distance bus ticket. Bus companies are responsible for any items packed in the luggage compartment or on the roof, but only if they give you a ticket for each bag.

Car

Driving in Bolivia is a challenge not to be taken lightly, but it also has significant rewards: it gives you access to the many beautiful remote areas that have minimal or no public transport, it allows you travel at your own pace and - most importantly - by daylight.

Car rentals
are available in La Paz, Santa Cruz, Cochabamba, Sucre and most other large cities. To rent a vehicle you must be at least 25 years old, have a credit card and preferably an international drivers' licence. A smaller vehicle suitable for city driving costs about US$350 per week, including insurance; a sturdy 4WD can cost US$600 per week or more.

Alternatively, you can bring your own vehicle to Bolivia. You will need the following documents: an international drivers' license; title or registration of the vehicle (if it is not registered in your own name then a notarized letter of authorization is also required); and SOAT, the compulsory Bolivian accident insurance, which can be purchased locally. Customs forms are completed directly at land borders and tourist vehicles are allowed into the country for up to 90 days. If you leave and re-enter then you may (at the discretion of the customs officer) be granted an additional 90 days, up to a maximum of 180 days per year. Neither a security deposit nor a
carnet de passage en douane
are required.

A 4WD with good ground clearance is recommended if travelling outside cities and away from main paved roads. A tank for extra petrol is a good idea, as are tools, spare parts, spare tire, tire repair kit and a mini-compressor. The vehicle should be tuned for altitude and temperatures down to -25°C in the highlands. Camping equipment, food and water should also be carried in remote areas.

There are
tolls
 on many roads, even on some small ones; you receive a stamped receipt at the first toll, which is then stamped at subsequent toll posts. Always keep the receipts and all your driving papers at hand for police checks. It is important to keep all your documents in order but in general, the police are helpful to motorists.

Note that although driving is on the right-hand side throughout Bolivia, vehicles stay to the left (downhill vehicle nearest the edge) on some parts of some roads in the Yungas. This appears to apply only to unpaved roads. When in doubt, ask local drivers and be verycareful.

This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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