Cochabamba to Santa Cruz

There are two routes east from Cochabamba to Santa Cruz. An older 500-km partly paved road goes via the mountains and Epizana. A newer, almost fully paved, lowland route further north goes via Villa Tunari in the Chapare region; it is preferred by most transport. Parques Nacionales Carrasco and Amboró are situated between these two routes, with various accesses to both parks along both roads. 

Inkallajta, a ruined fortress standing on a flat spur of land at the mouth of a steep valley, is the most important archaeological site in Cochabamba department. The ruins are extensive and the main building of the fortress is said to have been the largest roofed Inca building. There's also an area called Inkarrakana, which was an astronomical observatory.

A few decades before the Spanish conquest, the Inca Empire had expanded to cover most of the Cochabamba Valley, in an attempt to benefit from its enormous agricultural potential. To this end, the Incas built an extensive system of roads, market centres and forts. The Inca Tupac Yupanqui ordered the construction of Inkallajta in 1463-1472 to protect the advancing Imperial Army from the attacks of the fearsome local Chirihuano tribes, but after the fort was attacked it was badly damaged and abandoned. Such was the strategic importance of the site that Huayna Kapac had it rebuilt in 1525. It was abandoned again in the aftermath of the internal strife that marked the beginning of the end of the Inca Empire.


Parque Ecoturístico Machía (Inti Wara Yassi) is a 36-ha park including a well-signposted 3-km interpretive trail, which explains the park's ecology and other good trails through semi-tropical forest. There are panoramic lookouts and picturesque waterfalls as well as a wide variety of wildlife. The park is run by an animal rescue organization, which attempts to rehabilitate captive animals and return them to the wild. They also operate a second refuge about half way between Santa Cruz and Trinidad. Volunteer opportunities with on-site accommodation are available, see their website (above) for details and contact them in advance.

Parque Nacional Carrasco

South of Villa Tunari lies Carrasco National Park, covering 622,600 ha. One of the country's largest, best-known and most accessible parks, it lies between 300 and 4500 m and has 11 ecological life zones and superb birdwatching opportunities. Until now it has seen mainly Bolivian visitors but it is increasingly visited by foreign tourists.

Situated at the eastern foothills of the Cordillera Real, the terrain moves from mountainous in the west to flat in the east. The scenery, while not as lush as that of the Amazonian parks, is stunning nonetheless. Rainfall is heavy - rare for the otherwise dry Cochabamba department - especially in the north, and there are several rivers and waterfalls that crisscross the region; canyons and pools abound, as do the flora and fauna associated with this landscape. The park also boasts a bird sanctuary that is haven to some of the continent's rarest species, especially night birds. Sitting at a higher altitude than most of the surrounding region, Carrasco is cool, making it a refreshing respite for the trekker.

Access to the park is from one of several nearby towns, including Chimoré, Puerto Villarroel, Totora (the easiest route), and Villa Tunari. From Villa Tunari trufis can be hired to the park entrance. From there you cross the river on a cable pulley and then it's a 15-minute walk to the Cavernas de Repechónwildlife sanctuary. This consists of several caves inhabited by the guácharo, or oilbird. These are nocturnal, fruit-eating birds that venture out of their cave only at night, emitting a clicking sound that they use for navigation.

A community tourism project called Kawsay Wasioffers a two-hour guided hike in the park, about 1.5 km. It leads through rainforest where, in addition to guácharos, you can also see bat caves, butterflies, giant ants, a variety of birds and with a bit of luck other animals. More information at www.tusoco.com.

The access road to the park is a turning off the old road to Cochabamba from Villa Tunari. From Cochabamba this road is no longer driveable. Dubbed the Camino de las Nubes, it has been mostly reclaimed by the forest but it makes a challenging 60 km trek for experienced and well-equipped hikers.

Parque Nacional Isiboro-Sécure

This 1,300,000-ha protected area lies in the northwest corner of the Chapare region. Located in the heart of coca-growing territory, much of the park is considered dangerous, particularly for independent travellers, and it consequently receives few visitors. Community tourism opportunities are offered by Fundación Delpia www.fundacion-delpia.org.

Ranging from 200 m to 1600 m, the park includes vast expanses of tropical rainforest and savannah lands and is home to the Trinitario and Yuracaré indigenous groups. Road access is difficult and there are no tourist facilities. The park can be visited by river via the Río Chipiriri from Puerto San Francisco, which is about one hour from Villa Tunari . In principle, the park can also be visited from Trinidad.

Puerto San Franciscois a popular day trip from Villa Tunari. Trufis leave from the turn-off called El Castillo, just past the first bridge leaving Villa Tunari toward Santa Cruz. Take the trufi to Villa 14 de Septiembre and change there to another trufi marked 'Puerto'. In Puerto San Francisco you can take a canoe into the forest, go fishing in the river or nearby lakes, or learn about local handicrafts.