Río Grande

Río Grande is a sprawling modern coastal town, the centre for a rural sheep-farming community that grew rapidly in the 1970s, with government tax incentives. The new population was stranded when benefits were withdrawn, leading to unemployment and emigration, and leaving the rather sad, dusty town you find today. The people are friendly but there's little culture, and you're most likely to visit in order to change buses. There are a couple of good places to stay, however, and a small museum worth seeing. There is an

The city's architecture is a chaotic mix of smart nouveau riche houses and humble wooden and tin constructions. It seems to have defied municipal efforts at prettification, and the series of peeling and graffitied concrete 'sculptures' along some of the avenues do little to cheer it up. But if you do get stuck here, you could trace the city's history

through sheep, missions, pioneers and oil in its interesting small museum,

Salesian mission in 1893, and you can visit the original building,

has displays of natural history and indigenous artefacts, with strawberry plantations, piglets and an aviary. A taxi ride there with wait costs US$6. The

, www.tierradelfuego.org.ar, in the blue-roofed hut on the plaza is small but helpful.

, on the coast, 40 km to the south, is a working sheep farm with a fascinating history. Here, Lucas Bridges, son of Tierra del Fuego's first settler, built a home to protect the large tribe of indigenous Onas, who were fast dying out. The

is still inhabited by his descendants, who will take you riding and show you life on the farm. There is also a house to rent and superb accommodation, highly recommended.

, built by the millionaire José Menéndez, is heaven for brown trout fishing.