Río Grande to Ushuaia

From Río Grande, several roads fan out southwest to the heart of the island, though this

area is little inhabited. The paved road south, Route 3, continues across wonderfully open land, more forested than the expanses of Patagonian steppe further north, and increasingly

hilly as you near Ushuaia. After around 160 km, you could turn left along a track to the coast, and find

. It's a simple working

in a beautiful position (reserve in advance),

open all year and with beautiful native woodland for walking and riding, birdwatching and fishing. There are also other trips to places of interest within reach. Route 3 then climbs up above Lago Fagnano and Tolhuin.

This is a friendly, small settlement close to the shore of Lago Fagnano, a large expanse of water, right at the heart of Tierra del Fuego. The village has a stretch of beach nearby and is a favourite Sunday afternoon destination for day-trippers from Ushuaia. There's a YPF service station just off the main road, but it's worth driving into the village itself for the famous bakery

, where you can buy delicious bread,

and fresh

(pastries). It's also a good source of information. There's a tiny, friendly

are available at El Encuentro, including fine leather goods, half a block from the tourist information office. From the village a road leads down to the tranquil lake shore, where there are a couple of good places to stay. Further along Route 3, 50 km from Ushuaia, a road to the right swoops down to

, a fjord-like lake with steep deep green

mountains descending into the water. After Lago Escondido, the road crosses the cordillera at Paso Garibaldi. It then descends to the Cerro Castor winter sports complex

and the Tierra Mayor Recreation area . There is a police control just as you enter the Ushuaia city limits; passports may be checked.