Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
Covering 63,000 ha of mountains, lakes, rivers and deep valleys, this small but beautiful park stretches west to the Chilean border and north to
Lago Fagnano
, though large areas have been closed to tourists to protect the environment. Public access is at the park entrance 12 km west of Ushuaia, where you'll be given a basic map with marked walks. There's good camping in a picturesque spot at Lago Roca, with a
confitería
. All walks are best early morning or afternoon to avoid the tour buses. You'll see lots of geese, the beautiful torrent duck, Magellanic woodpeckers and austral parakeets.
The park entrance is 12 km west of Ushuaia, on the main road west signposted from the town centre. The
park administration
, tierradelfuego@apn.gov.ar
, is in Ushuaia. In summer, buses and minibuses run to Lago Roca and to Bahía Lapataia, leaving from Ushuaia's tourist pier at the corner of Maipú and Roca or from Maipú and 25 de Mayo. Returning from either Bahía Lapataia or Lago Roca, hourly until last bus. Ask at the tourist office for bus details and a map of the park, with walks. There are no legal crossing points to Chile. Wear warm, waterproof
clothing: in winter the temperature drops to as low as -12°C, and although in summer it can reach 25°C, evenings can be chilly. There's a helpful
guardaparque
(ranger) at Lago Roca.
For a really rich experience, go with guides who know the territory well and can tell you about the wildlife. Inexpensive trips for all levels are available with the highly recommended
Compañía de Guías de Patagonia
, www.companiadeguias.com.as
.
The leaflets provided at the entrance show various walks, but these are recommended:
Senda CosteraThis lovely easy walk along the shore gives you the essence of the park, its rocky coastline, edged with a rich forest of beech trees and glorious views of the low islands with a backdrops of steep mountains. Start at Bahía Ensenada (where the boat trips start, and where the bus can drop you off). Walk along a well-marked path along the shoreline, and then rejoin the road briefly to cross Río Lapataia (ignoring signs to Lago Roca to your right). After crossing the broad green river and a second stretch of water (where there's a small camping spot and the
Senda Hito XXIVgendarmería
), it's a pleasant stroll inland to the beautifully tranquil
Bahía Lapataia
, an idyllic spot, with views across the sound.
Another easy walk, beside this peaceful lake, with lovely pebble beaches and through dense forest at times, with
Cerro Guanacolots of bird life. This is especially recommended in the evening, when most visitors have left.
Get off the bus at the junction for Lago Roca, turn right along the road to the car park (passing the
guardaparque
's house) and follow the lake side.
A challenging hike up through the very steep forest to a mirador at the top of a hill (970 m) with splendid views over Lago Roca, the Beagle Channel and far-off mountains. The ground is slippery after rain: take care and don't rush. Allow plenty of time to return whilst it's light, especially in winter. The path branches off Senda Hito XXIV after crossing Arroyo Guanaco.
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This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF
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