Argentine Tierra del Fuego
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The Argentine half of Tierra del Fuego is much easier to visit than the Chilean half, and more rewarding.
The northern half of the island is wind-swept steppe, and its only town, Río Grande, once rich in oil, is now very faded. But pause before you head straight for Ushuaia to visit two splendid estancias
. Viamonte (www.estanciaviamonte.com) was built by Lucas Bridges to protect the indigenous Ona people, and is an evocative place to stay, while Estancia María Behety (see www.maribety.com.ar) is world famous for its brown trout fishing. The landscape turns to hills as you head south, and there's a lovely silent lake, Lago Fagnano, ideal for a picnic. Ushuaia is the island's centre, beautifully set on the Beagle Channel, with a backdrop of steep mountains. With a picturesque national park on its doorstep, boat trips up the Beagle Channel to the Bridges' other superb
estancia
Harberton, and a ski centre at Cerro Castor, there's plenty to keep you here. Huskies will draw your sledge in winter, and in summer you can walk around Bahía Lapataia and contemplate the serenity of the end of the world.
This is edited copy from Footprint Handbooks. For comprehensive details (incl address, tel no, directions, opening times and prices) please refer to book or individual chapter PDF