Quebrada del Toro and Tren a las Nubes

The route for the Train to the Clouds is the same as the road through the Quebrada del Toro. The only difference is that travelling by road gives you the chance to get out and walk around - and to examine the spectacular feat of engineering of the train track - which of course you can't see from the train itself.

Santa Rosa de Tastil

This picturesque little hamlet (3200 m) lies near the site of one of Argentina's most important pre-Hispanic settlements which once contained well over 400 houses and over 2000 people, believed to have been inhabited from AD 1336 to 1439. There is a small museumiat the side of the road which is recommended. It has some of the finds from this intriguing culture, among them a well-preserved mummy, delicate jewellery and a xylophone of sonorous rocks. The museum's guide may treat you to a rendition of Für Elise, a wonderful anachronism. The remains of this ancient city are extraordinarily beautiful; a vast expanse of regular walls and roads, stretching out on an exposed hillside with views along the entire gorge. The ruins themselves are well worth visiting, but be sure to ask for a local guide, since the site is extensive and you'll get more out of it with a little interpretation. Guides will show you around, but are unpaid so appreciate a tip.

San Antonio de los Cobres

San Antonio de los Cobresis a simple remote mining town of low adobe houses situated in a shallow hollow. There's nothing much to do here but it's a good introduction to the reclusive life of the puna, and it does have its subtle charms. It's also one of the few places here which retains authentic indigenous culture, and where the Pachamama festivalis celebrated in style every August. Tourists are welcome at this great event, which is not to be missed. People are friendly and the handicrafts on offer are of high quality, and incredibly cheap. You may want to experience real punalife, and 35 km beyond the town, on the way to Salinas Grandes, you can visit Sandro Llampa and his family at El Mojón. Look out for signs on the main road, or take a tour with Socompa . However, altitude sickness can strike heavily here, so avoid eating too much or drinking alcohol until acclimatized.

San Antonio to Chile

From San Antonio there are two possible crossings to Chile. The best, closest, and most used, is the Paso de Sico, due west on Route Nacional 51. Alternatively, at Caucharí, take Route Provincial 27 southwest across the giant Salar de Arizaro to the Chilean border at the Paso de Socompa(not recommended). The road runs through very beautiful scenery including salt flats and desert, but be warned that is extremely isolated, and there are no services whatsoever. Make sure you stock up on drinking water and fuel before setting out from San Antonio. Only for the very intrepid.

San Antonio to Purmamarca

Another road, the Ruta 40, leads north from San Antonio to Abra Pampa, or curves around to join a good route to Purmamarca in the Quebrada de Humahuaca which is recommended for a taste of the extraordinary landscapes. The road continues dead flat across the scrubby yellow puna- its horizons edged with pinkish mauve or bronze mountains, with the occasional flock of llamas or cows grazing. It's either wonderfully meditative or unbearably monotonous, depending on your point of view, but the salt flats, Salinas Grandes, which you'll reach in two hours from San Antonio, are certainly worth seeing. The huge expanses of dazzling white salt, crazy paved with crusted lines, are silent and other-worldly. There are crossroads some 20 north of the salt flats, where you could head west to Susques (in Jujuy), up to Abra Pampa or follow the spectacular road to Purmamarca down the broad slalom bends of Cuesta de Lipánwith breathtaking views of the valley below.