Parque Nacional Calilegua

The park protects an area of peaks, sub-tropical valleys and cloudforest on the eastern slopes of the Serranía de Calilegua. There are some surprisingly high peaks including Cerro Amarillo (3720 m), which you can climb in a three-day trek round trip, starting from the entrance, and Cerro Hermoso(3200 m), which lies closer to the road, but is attempted by few visitors as you must go with a guide. Several rivers flow southeast across the park into the Río Ledesma. The wildlife is wonderful with at least 300 species of bird including the red-faced guan and the condor, and over 60 species of mammal. You're likely to see tapirs, otters, taruca (Andean deer) and perhaps even pumas. The unpaved Route 83 runs through the park climbing from southeast to northwest and affording splendid views, before reaching Valle Grande beyond the park's borders. From Valle Grande there is a basic road leading via Aparzo to the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Or you could hike west from the park to Humahuaca and Tilcara (allow at least four days); you'll need to take a guide.

Walks

Within the park, there are 22 km of trails for trekking, most of which are close to the Aguas Negras ranger station. There are also some roads crossing the park for cars and bikes, but note that horse riding is not allowed. A good tourist circuit is to Calileguaand then on to Aguas Calientes, a very rural place, where there are hosteríasand a covered pool. You can do this in a day, if it hasn't rained, and it is accessible in an ordinary vehicle.

Cerro Amarillo

(3720 m). A hree-day trek starting from the entrance. Ask the guardaparques for advice on directions.

Alto Calilegua

Near the base of Cerro Amarillo. You could walk to an interesting shepherds' hamlet, at 2700 m. It's actually outside Calilegua park, but close to its northern border and only accessible on foot (eight to 10 hours, one way) or on horseback horses (six hours, one way). Mules can be hired from San Francisco (contact Luis Cruz). There are some small pre-Hispanic ruins near the hamlet, but the main point of visiting is to witness a culture which has remained isolated for centuries, in a picturesque mountainous setting. Locals will tell you they're tired of transporting everything by mules, and long for a road to be built. Visit now, before the road comes.