Paraná

Capital of Entre Ríos province, Paraná stands on the eastern bank of a bend in the Río Paraná, opposite Santa Fe. Its centre lies on a hill offering fine views over the river, and if you're travelling up the Paraná river, it is a good place to stop on a journey north. It was founded in 1649, when Santa Fe was moved from its original spot and settlers crossed the river in search of higher ground for cultivation, and a suitable port. In the mid-19th century it gained importance as capital of the Argentine Confederation and a subsequent period of growth left some sumptuous public buildings. The city's faded splendour creates a quiet, rather melancholic atmosphere but there is an appealing calm pace of life here. For more information, see www.turismoparana.com.ar.

Sights

From Plaza Alvear, Avenida Rivadavia leads to the beautiful Parque Urquizaa nd the riverside. Though nothing remains from the colonial period, the city retains many fine 19th- and 20th-century public buildings, centred around Plaza Primero de Mayo. On the east side is the impressive cathedral, built in 1883 in Italianate neoclassical style, with a fine dome and colonnaded portico, though the interior is plain. Also on the plaza are the Municipalidad(1890) with its distinctive tower, and the Club Social (1906), for years the elite social centre of the city. Visit the mildly engaging Museo Histórico Martiniano.

The Museo de Bellas Artes houses a vast collection of Argentine artists, with many works by painter Cesáreo Bernaldo de Quirós. The Museo de Ciencias Naturales y Antropológicas is particularly appealing for kids, with an insect collection, and lots of stuffed animals. Among fascinating artefacts by Guaraní people are a rare ornate urn, with red geometrical paintings and small utensils made by groups of indigenous peoples to the north, and a rather alarming display of jars containing human foetuses, from five weeks to six months old.

The city's pride and joy, the Parque Urquiza extends along the low cliffs of the Paraná river, with wonderful views and many fine statues: it is well planted with lapachos, palos borrachos and pines. There's an open-air theatre, and steps to the Avenida Costanera. The cobbled street Bajada de los Vascos, which in the 19th century gave access to the port area, is now known as Puerto Viejo and retains some original buildings. The Avenida Costanera is lively, with restaurants, sports clubs and sandy beaches on the river.